A total newbie, in absolute need of advice. Truly appreciated if people can help

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
RBalls25
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:53 am
Car: 97 S14, RB25
Contact:

Post

Hello everyone, I am on ex srt-4 owner. It was quite the beast with a 60 trim, the works. Once I was about 75% done, we threw it on the dyno and it was around 430 WHP. Don't mind me, it was quick as hell. But as you all know most dodges are peice of ****s. I wanted something I could some work on, and turn it into not only a drift machine but a flat line killer. As far I know here are the mods:

(some exhaust that I dont remember the name, but I do know it is "illegeal" due to smog. The guy said it is hands down the best exhaust system for it soo.. I just bought a Koyo radiator cause the original radiator had a small ding in it, which is causing coolant to leak and over heat. So I can't even drive it until the radiator is installed. But that is fine, cause I want to wrench on it until it turns to a real beast.

HKS air filter kit.Tial BOV Walboro 255lph pump Air full pressure regulator Boost controller, which I can't find in the bay. Air/fuel gauge, boost gauage of course.

Right now im pushing ten PSI flat. Car runs pretty strong, but sometimes it will just die while im driving. Im thinking it needs a new clutch? What do you guys think?

Anyways, what is the potential "SAFELY" on this motor and to turn it to a beast.

What are the most important mods to start with on my stairway to heaven.

I trully appreciate your guys help.


Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

Post

Post up some pics of the engine bay. Is this an RB25 I'm assuming?? You never said. The "safe" hp limit on stock internals is about 450hp. 500hp is about the upper limit.

And your car probably stalls after you let off the throttle after getting into boost right?


User avatar
Coolwhip
Vendor
Posts: 3138
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2004 7:29 am
Car: RB26 Raw Brokerage War Machine
Location: Orlando, FL
Contact:

Post

drift or straight line (drag) has alot to do with the suspension and setup of the car... both require totally different setups to properly be considered "setup" for either.

You can get by with a mild suspension setup which will generally grant you fun in both areas, but nothing close to competitive spirits.

Anyway, as Darius has asked, we need to know what motor you are running, it makes a difference.

The car shutting off at idle has other problems, highly doubt its the clutch.

Going off what you had achieved previously with your SRT-4 I'm assuming you want in the neighborhood of 400-500hp (or whp). Which all goes back to what motor you're running.

Basic items for a quality running car at 200 or 400hp: (BUT not limited to)

Timing beltTensionerIdlerWater Pump (upgraded if desired)Oil Pump (Upgraded if possible)ClutchFuel PumpGuagesObviously an overhaul on all possible leaky hoses, gaskets, and sealsMaintainance work (PVC, Fuel Filter, Oil, etc.)

Upgraded parts arn't hard to find either,

Stablize the motor, stablize the car, ensure you'll stop with a good braking system, suspension towards your desired setup, etc.

If you are looking for something fun to drive and race, build a car not a motor.

RBalls25
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:53 am
Car: 97 S14, RB25
Contact:

Post

Yes this is an RB25, and yea after I throttle and let off it stalls. Everything normal or no? And what mods should I be looking to for this best bang for your buck?>

User avatar
Coolwhip
Vendor
Posts: 3138
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2004 7:29 am
Car: RB26 Raw Brokerage War Machine
Location: Orlando, FL
Contact:

Post

check your vitals...

Base timingIgnition timingFuel PressureVaccume (and leaks), boost leaksWiring on vital sensors, MAF, IACV, Coolant Temp Sensor, etc.Check to make sure they are clean and operating within range.

Do you have a BOV on there that is venting to the atmosphere? Could be your problem.

Best bang for the buck?

Driving school = best bang for the buck either its for your insurance or your track times, as well as how to properly drive your car.

Find the right tire for your car is essential when talking high HP.

Motor wise which I believe your leaning towards:400whp on a RB25:

Turbo (GT3071R or GT3076R)Injectors (720cc+)EMS (Rom Tune, AEM, PFC, etc.)

You'll be good there. Want more? Drop in cams and your good to go.

Most likely you'll want to get rid of your intake manifold because its 'ugly' and doesn't look too 'performance-like' so grab a Greddy Intake Manifold and link everything up to a FMIC.

of course you'll need supporting mods to get anywhere there, a N62 MAF comes to mind.

Search and learn...

User avatar
Coolwhip
Vendor
Posts: 3138
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2004 7:29 am
Car: RB26 Raw Brokerage War Machine
Location: Orlando, FL
Contact:

Post

"And please prevent using the "stock RB" question, since it's been covered soo many times..." Says the Stock Sock RB Monkey




Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

Post

Coolwhip is on the money with the standard upgrade setup. And you need to search for your own answers before you start posting questions. Just because you're an admitted newb we'll cut you some slack this once

The Tial BOV vents to atmosphere so when you're in boost and you let off the throttle, metered air escapes the system and the engine runs pig rich for a second or two. This apparently is enough to stall the motor in your case.

User avatar
HxC_Nismo
Posts: 1036
Joined: Sat Sep 23, 2006 10:26 am
Car: '98 Nissan 240SX SE R33 RB26DET
'07 Nissan Titan SE
'05 Toyota Corolla
Location: Missouri
Contact:

Post

MAP sensor FTW!!!


Return to “RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum”