Custom sump, easy as 1, 2, 3......???

Post by **nat0Z** » Mon May 26, 2008 5:13 am

Now i was looking at running a dry sump with my vh swap & had a bit of an idea (after digitising the sump flange to CAD ready to profile).

looked @ the sump (after i had dropped it off the jack and pierced the bastard) hmmmm, what if i........

Well have a look @ the pics below and tell me what you think.nato

more pics @ my gallery here -----> http://s303.photobucket.com/albums/nn157/nat0vhZ/

nat0

Post by **Mettler** » Mon May 26, 2008 11:54 am

That's pretty cool, will be interested in seeing where this goes.

Post by **T45** » Mon May 26, 2008 5:04 pm

Great idea! Looks like it will drop right in to your 240 no problem at all. Just extend the sump tube rearward a bit and you're good.

Post by **TSL** » Mon May 26, 2008 5:46 pm

So this is to clear the swaybar?

Post by **nat0Z** » Mon May 26, 2008 5:47 pm

YEA the sump pickup will be pretty easy just grab some tube from work and bend it round a die to suit the direction i need it to take and re-weld the end on.

yea the sump bowl now will slip straight behind my x-member like it was made for it:)

has just made the whole dry sump plan go a whole loot cheaper by staying wet, also no advantage on engine mounting height as if i go any lower i will need ski's under the car to protect the sump and trans oil pan and botm of bellhousing!!!

so the more thought and planning goes into it the easier this is all becoming.....look out for the exhaust manifolds section.....coming soon...

now the shape i cut the sump @ was almost perfect, and could dimension up if anyone is interested, but still needs some massaging with a SFH (small F'ing hammer) but for 1.5 hrs worth of work its about ready to weld up & flush!!!.

nato

PS. also have the Sump flange/gasket face digitised into .dwg format if anyone is interested.

Post by **Raxephon** » Mon May 26, 2008 6:46 pm

I really like the motor mounts.

What are they made out of?

Post by **z1 zonly** » Mon May 26, 2008 8:12 pm

K.I.S.S. I love it.

Post by **nat0Z** » Tue May 27, 2008 4:58 am

mild steel plate 8mm for the engine flange and 6mm for the others but tube is 50NB pipe with about a 4mm wall thicknessTHESE ARE JUST THE MOCK UP MOUNTS..........New ones will be laser cut with tabs which all interlock which allows me then to hold in place and tack it together, the just go silly and weld.The rubber bush of the engine mounts are actual 240z / 260z diff moustach bar bushes, i had a spare set and took the opportunity to go silly.

KISS is pretty much my main goal, put more thought than money and time into it as neither of the cost money in short or long term. the more thought i have put in has made it easier and easier everytime i look at it all.

Sump has had the final massage and clean up reay for welding. Miss' interupted me so il leave it for tomorrow night, will get pics yes.

To minimise warping / distortion of the sump mounting flange, i will be filling the sump bowl with water, (and have the mounting flange immersed in water whilst welding upside down anyways.) making small stitch welds with the mig the clean up and stop/starts with my tig. MAIN TRICK IS KEEPING THE GAP AS SMALL AS POSSIBLE TO WELD UP, as the bigger it is the more shrinkage for the molten metal to be able to perform, ie more molten metal cooling = more shrinkage.

NO, this is not to clear the swaybar but to fit in the car with the stock crossmember as they usually run a mid/rear sump anyways. Main goal of this build is to be able to remove it all and then install the stock / original motor without any sign of what lived there (was a legal chev 283 boat anchor before )

The sump mod idea just came to me when having a look at whilst doing nothing, got me motivated to cut it up, was really spare of the moment. made a plan and performed surgery like nip-tuck!!!

Post by **nat0Z** » Thu May 29, 2008 6:07 pm

more pics below, also in my other thread's link to my gallery.started tacking up the sump then fully welded, wasnt happy with the welding and there was too much distortion for my likeing, even though i have straightened it up a fair bit very slight rock when on a flat surface.I may grab another sump and try again.see below....

Post by **Chrispy300** » Fri May 30, 2008 12:36 am

How long did that take to weld?

Post by **nat0Z** » Fri May 30, 2008 5:57 pm

less than 2 hours, but i spent about 3-4 just trying to get it straight again, im probly going to do this again on another sump, and not use the tig as i reckon i could mig it with ALOT less heat, just use tig to close of any leaks i find with 'die pen'

next time i will stay mig and should only take an hour max!!!nat0

Post by **tmorgan4** » Sat May 31, 2008 12:57 am

If you wouldn't mind sending the gasket/flange .dwg file to me it would be much appreciated! tmorgan4 (at) frii.com

I had the same problem as you, but I didn't weld near as much of the pan. I MIGed mine too. It's getting TIG treatment next time around!

Post by **T45** » Sat May 31, 2008 3:06 am

Next time I'm bolting the cut off flange to a piece of 1/4" plate before welding. Even with spot welding it will still warp. Now I don't feel so dumb since everyone had issues with this. lol

I may try aluminum next time.

Post by **craigztoyz** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:40 pm

I weld mine, bolted down to a 1" Plywood, it is straight, and I squirt water on it, a little to help keep it cool, little stitches help. I also cut and bent the pan in, so there is very little welding near the flange. But cutting out the center of the pan, and folding it in, makes it want to warp, so I drilled, and screwed mine, and a cutomers down. Worked great.

Post by **nat0Z** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:59 pm

zerothread/338148

above link to other thread re: more sump fitup and clearance from the cross member.

have a L@@k!!!

nat0

Post by **nat0Z** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 5:10 pm

might be able to resume this project after its sudden stop over a year ago......

cheers nat0z

Post by **Wes M** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 1:28 am

I did something similar to my sump, except I cut it about 10mm from the flange. Screwing it to a thick block of wood eliminated any warping. I ran short stitches about 50mm long at a time alternating different sides of the sump. Running the MIG at a low current helped limit the heat input, but I found it resulted in lack of fusion at the stop/starts which I had to fix by grinding down and rewelding.

I got a hold of a dye penetrant kit and brushed it on the inside to check for leaks - there were plenty but easy enough to fix up. Took a bit of extra time but now I have the confidence of a leak free sump

Pickup also took a bit of welding up.. I think I have some pics up in my thread VH into rx7. (this was for a rear sump rather than a mid sump tho).

-Wes

Post by **darinz** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 9:05 am

I'm in the process of doing the same as Wes but I'm also increasing the capacity. I'll get photo's on here when I'm done.

Post by **CrazyTrance** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:27 pm

Huh... I'm kind of confused as i have a VH in my s13.. And there isn't much room in between my firewall and block. And my mounts are made so the oil pan in its stock formation slips right in between the cross member and front sway bar.. Why did you have to modify yours??

PS: How much clearance are you leaving in between the oil pan and your pick-up tube? As i'm thinking about making a shorter but wider pan with baffles and the only thing really stopping me is from knowing how much space to leave in between the bottom of the pan and the pick up.

Post by **Mettler** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:59 pm

CrazyTrance wrote:Huh... I'm kind of confused as i have a VH in my s13.. And there isn't much room in between my firewall and block. And my mounts are made so the oil pan in its stock formation slips right in between the cross member and front sway bar.. Why did you have to modify yours??

His car is a 240Z isn't it? Crossmember probably sits further forward.

Post by **nat0Z** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 5:00 pm

maybe ref to darinz?? not my 240z.....

yes this was done ages ago, for my sump pickup, i am just cutting the stock one up and putting in an 'S' bend to bring down to where it will sit sppox 10-15mm off bottm edge of sump and on an angle incase it was to ever get hit and dented in.

cheers nat0

Post by **CrazyTrance** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:34 am

Yeah i got a little confused haha. Nevermind i understand now.

Thanks for the clearance specs. I was thinking it would be closer than that 10-15mm though.. not sure why.

Custom sump, easy as 1, 2, 3......???

Custom sump, easy as 1, 2, 3......???

Re: Custom sump, easy as 1, 2, 3......??? (nat0Z)

Re: (T45)

Re: Custom sump, easy as 1, 2, 3......??? (nat0Z)

Re: Custom sump, easy as 1, 2, 3......??? (nat0Z)

Re: Custom sump, easy as 1, 2, 3......??? (anlasak)

Re: Custom sump, easy as 1, 2, 3......??? (nat0Z)

Re: Custom sump, easy as 1, 2, 3......??? (nat0Z)

Re: Custom sump, easy as 1, 2, 3......??? (Chrispy300)

Re: Custom sump, easy as 1, 2, 3......??? (nat0Z)

Re: (T45)

Re: (craigztoyz)

Re: (nat0Z)

Re: (nat0Z)

Re: (Wes M)

Re: (darinz)

Re: (CrazyTrance)

yes 240z......

Re: yes 240z...... (nat0Z)

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