CA18DET RWD Water pump , timing belt replacement...sticky possibility????

[DALAZ_68]

well i just got done doing this...so i thought id share with u all a nice little write up...especially since this motor is lacking in sources...

Tools needed:27mm socket or 1 1/6 socket13mm socket14mm socket...12mm socket10mm open wrench and socket8mm socket 5mm hex allen wrenchimpact gun/drill air or electricbrake cleanerPB blaster (or WD-40)Gasket silicon sealer (for thermostat and head gasket sealant)pulley claw puller (large size..)scraperpaper towels ( more it can soak up the better)timing gun (for safe measure)

parts replaced:water pump- autozone part number AWP-692alternator belt - good year- 4pk0850- 4040335 timing belt - good year gatorback - 40137radiator - RB performance

pre planed thoughts: if u can the night b4 u decide to work on ur car loosen ur lower rad hose and drain ur system...this way...u dont have ot deal with draining ur system and having water/coolant everywhere...more tip...have ur car at an angle with the nose tipped foward so it drains the max amoutn of water out...

second..u need to have room for the impact drill, depending on how ur swap set up is u might have an electric fan or 2, clutch fan or fan shroud aswell.

fan shroud...i didnt have one, so ur on ur own...

clutch fan...didnt have one either....but i know for a fact u can use a clutch fan holder tool rented from autozone to hold everything in place to remove the fan and clutch fan assembly...

electric fans: i only have one fan that was bolted at one point and zipped tied everywhere else...so i just snapped the ties and unbolted and moved the fan to the side

remove the radiator aswell if possible the night before...ull have a **** load more room...

now that u have ur clutch fan and fan shroud off, u wanna think ahead...thats were the wd-40 or pb blaster come into place... shake ur can and spray some of ur spray into the nut...let it start penetrating now so u dont have downtime later...

now...uve already removed the fan clutch and since the bolts holding the pulley are out...u can now loosen the tightening bolt that hold the alternator in place which is a 12MM

now u can also release the tension on the P/S belt which is a bolt located under the pump (14mm) if ur luckey ur pulley is lined up so u can just use a socket and pri the ***** loose...if ur unlucky like me u can just get to it with an open wrench...

loosen ur assemblies and remove the belts...my P/S was just recently installed so my belt for that was fine...

my ALT belt was a totally different story, so i just had it replaced...the 855 size belt wasnt available so i used an 850...it fitshere a pic of were to loosen for the altthe screw thats going horizontally is for tension...dont need to worry till reassembly

at this point spray some more pb blaster or wd an the crank pulley again...trust me ...ull be glad u did

now...time to remove the first top cover...first remove the CAS and then focus on the cover...

it takes a lil jiggle shimmy shimmy to get the cover off

and now u can see ur timing belt...at this point i relized my belt might aswell get changed ...so i did that aswell...my tensioner pulley was in great shape so i didnt have to worry about it... usually itll run about 60 bucks for it though....

ok so u realize theres a second lower cover...dont worry yet...u cant take it off yet anyway until u remove the crank pulley... i will say..u could possibly remove the lower cover with the pulley still attached, but u might end up braking or bending the ****en thing... why **** it up...

before u remove ur pulley: set ur timing to TDC (top dead center)

time to get the pulley off...

time to break out ur impact gun and 27mm bolt...took about 5 minutes for me to get mine off, because i didnt spray it with pb /wd sooner, we had some slight downtime...

once the bolt is loose... leave it threaded just to the edge...

break out ur puller puller

tighten the center section down till u have some tension...make sur all three claws are hooked down properly...and start torquing down with either a wrench or socket (this particular one could ur a 15mm) till ur pulley pops off...behnd the pulley should be an assembly that looks like this



from my understanding its mean to help keep ur timing belt in place...and from moving back and fourth..remember how it came off...which side is which...dont confuse it and it has a tab so u can realign it properly.

no u can focus on ur lower cover... there are four 8mm bolts to take off...

first one is on the left of the water pump pulleysecond is to the right of the water pump pulleyamd 2 more on each side of where the crank pulley would be aswell

there not hard to miss there 8mm screws with rubber bushings on them



Note: on mine the rubber bushings were old and cracking...i tend to get new ones...isuggest u do the same aswell

now its time to shimmy and shake the second cover off... carfull with it

now u should be exposed like this

first and foremost... lets get to teh belt...

if u didnt have enough to get a belt or dont need a belt...u wanna get the belt off first so it has the least exposre to water/coolant

there is a tensioner pulley (in pick there is a yellow circle) the nut is 13mm..wierd i know... and in the tensioner pulley (circled in blue) is a hex opening (5mm if i remember correctly)

to release the tension on ur belt u wanna to use the hex to push in a spring assembly that keep the pulley in place...while the hex is pushing the spring back use the 13mm bolt to turn the puelly clockwise until it reaches the point that a second spring holds it in place... remove ur belt...

water pump time....

the alt bracket has 2 bolts that are held down on the pump...u can see in the pic the black metal bracket... there 12mm in size... slide the assembly to the side and now work on removing the other bolts... if ur pump was leaking like mine...it shouldnt be to hard...since theres already an exposed point...if not and it was leaking from the weeper/bleeder hole... then a need assistance from a deadblow hammer (reubber malet) or a flat head...jam between the gasket and just pop the sucker out...

time to clean waterpump area...

first use the paper towels to jam in the area to soak up any coolant and water that might contaminate ur area were ur gasket silicone might need dry area to stick too...leave some paper towel in therewaded up...ull see why

take a scraper or a box cutter and remove any old silicone or gasket that might still be on the block...use the brake cleaner to help the process of cleaning..itll help penetrate hard to scrape old gasket..and it is self drying...this is why u should leave the waded paper towels in the holes...less amount of brake cleaners gettign in ur cooling syste,,, if any...

so now ur block is nice and clean ready for a a new water pump...

brake out ur water pump

heres a comparison of old and new

NOTE: the radius of the center of the pulley mounting area on the pump FWD CA18de is different. FWD+RWD or RWD+FWD leads to exploding pumps, make sure u have a pump from a 86 200sx single turbo!!!

thank u biosehnsucht of NICO

Second note...if ur not running a clutch fan, the double sided threaded screws that come with ur new pump are to long...u need to use ur stock ones from ur original pump...the thread pitch on the new bolts are the same, but the smooth center section is too long and tightening the bolt all the way down is not possible...if ur screws are siezed it like mine....2 options....1 u can use the 2 nut technique, take ur old pump, tighten down the nut then get a second nut and tighten that one over the first, now take a wrench and turn the first lower nut to loosen it...

2. if ur screwws are destroyed and no bueno, u can go to ur autoparts store and see if they carry what u need...or junk yard...the crews and thread pitch are the same size and length on a KA water pump pulley....so u can use that

apply the new gasket directly to the pump and on the gasket apply the silicone all around...

make sure ur water pump area is nice and clean one last time and no paper is left in ur way...and re apply ur water pump...remember that the to bolts on the alternator side has its black bracket on its side...tighten ur bolts on ur pump and guess what now ur done...

u went the extra mile and took off ur timing belt...OMG my timing...

chill...

ur upper and lower gears have a little circle pin...u cant miss it...and guess what if u use the same belt i did it will have a white stripe for each gear...HAZAH

ur set lil holes should be align somethign like this if u preset to TDC

align the stripes on ur belt with the lil holes on ur gears ...u might have to man handle ur belt a bit...

a trick i used...was opening the driver side valve cover and holding down the cam with an adjustable wrench...turning it clockwise till there was enough room for me to slide the belt in with ease...2 people is usually required for this step one to turn the cam just enough...the other to slip and make sure ur belt is still aligned properly... release the cam and re install ur valve cover

once ur belt is in place...check the tension on the belt...if it feels a bit loose...use the 13mm nut on ur tension pulley to tight it a bit...

now reset ur pulley by applying clock wise tension tot he nut and re entering the hex down in the hole to push back the spring assembly and lowering the pulley back counter clockwise till it locks up again...

should look like this

once everything is aligned properly...everything is tensioned down properly...time to reasemble...

first and formost reinstall ur lower cover and the washer and the crank pulley...and re verse everything back on...

once ur car is put back together and u did ur tdc and ur marked ur timing location...give ur car a crank...mine started up the first time...and i reset my timing to the marked locations and double checked with timing gun...

my finished product...

Note: it goes without sayin that changing ur upper and lower radiator hose if u need to u should,and ur thermostat aswell

im waiting to get my samco hoses and thats wehn im doing the rest...

hope this gets approved for futur CA owners

i wanna thank my homie Eric from Drift Ready Performance...ur help in this was wihtout a doubt epic and i learned so much...

Modified by DALAZ_68 at 12:37 AM 4/16/2008

Modified by DALAZ_68 at 12:38 AM 4/16/2008

Modified by DALAZ_68 at 12:42 AM 4/16/2008

Modified by DALAZ_68 at 10:44 AM 4/16/2008

Modified by DALAZ_68 at 10:51 AM 4/16/2008
Modified by DALAZ_68 at 10:57 AM 4/16/2008

[r34 gtr]

Great writeup!

Unfortunately for you I just read my FSM. Actually, I haven't had to read anything to do anything to one of these motors in years.

Just curious, why the impact wrench?

And for a better fit on the crank pulley bolt, you can use a 1, 1/16" socket.

[DALAZ_68]

Great writeup!

Unfortunately for you I just read my FSM. Actually, I haven't had to read anything to do anything to one of these motors in years.

Just curious, why the impact wrench?

And for a better fit on the crank pulley bolt, you can use a 1, 1/16" socket.

i was looking for a 1,1/6 but we found the other socket first...but ill add that to the info...

i should have put impact gun...mah bad you> < me...

i just wanted to contribute something to the forums... maybe add this to the tech section

edited impact wrench to gun/drill

[Jintei]

Pretty good write up.

Btw you can use large zip ties to hold the cam gears in place while changing the belt.

[DALAZ_68]

Pretty good write up.

Btw you can use large zip ties to hold the cam gears in place while changing the belt.

i know that ... the heavy duty kind...but i only had 4 zipties left and they were to hold my fan on the lower section

[r34 gtr]

Still, great writeup. This probably should be added to the faq/writeup section. I mean, why not?

[DALAZ_68]

Still, great writeup. This probably should be added to the faq/writeup section. I mean, why not?

thank you...i also added some more tid bit information under the water pump picture comparison

[float_6969]

IDK how I missed this guys, but it's stickied now. Thanks for the great writeup!

[r34 gtr]

I was always under the impression it was stickied, c'est la vie.

[DALAZ_68]

ill be happy if it helps atleast one person here, that will be wortht he time and effort...

[ca18detgabby]

having a little difficulty. I released the tensioners on PS, but which bolt is to loosen the assembly from t engine? is there more than one....... it seems like there are several.

also how do I release tension on the AC compressor? I cant seem to find the tensioner.

this writeup is pretty helpful. thank god for wireless internet.

[boost_boy]

having a little difficulty. I released the tensioners on PS, but which bolt is to loosen the assembly from t engine? is there more than one....... it seems like there are several.

You have to reverse the nut that's on the adjustment bolt. You shouldn't miss it if you have one.

also how do I release tension on the AC compressor? I cant seem to find the tensioner. .

The tensioner is between the crank pulley and the AC compressor. Loosen the 14mm nut and reverse the adjusting bolt that's below the tensioner assembly which uses a 14mm as well.

Dee

[DALAZ_68]

also how do I release tension on the AC compressor? I cant seem to find the tensioner.

this writeup is pretty helpful. thank god for wireless internet.

sorry gabby i dont have A/C at all...sorry gabby

[ca18detgabby]

sorry gabby i dont have A/C at all...sorry gabby

no worries big daddy. lol I took apart 1/2 a douzen bolts on the PS before I realized where the one bolt was behind the pulley.

god I need to learn to read throughly.

[ca18detgabby]

so no one locally has a OEM replacement timing belt........ I want to do the timing before Xmas and will do the greddy as soon as it gets in.

I read on one of the other threads an audi 20V timing belt is the same, but the pater numbers are not the same?

ca18de= 40137 goodyear gatorback

20V= 40170 good year gatorback

anyone?

[DALAZ_68]

so no one locally has a OEM replacement timing belt........ I want to do the timing before Xmas and will do the greddy as soon as it gets in.

I read on one of the other threads an audi 20V timing belt is the same, but the pater numbers are not the same?

ca18de= 40137 goodyear gatorback

20V= 40170 good year gatorback

anyone?

check the first post there bud....its the 40137 gatorback

ive been rockin it since i made the thread

at this point go with wat works and that would be the same im using...i havent had any incident

if u need me to over night something to u lemme knwo...pretty sure i can find it...wiht luck,mind u im drunk right now so if i misread you> < me

[ca18detgabby]

I read what you said, a thread long ago said you could use a 20V belt........

the CA18DE one is dealer direct only at:

autozoneadvancepepboys

so noone has one locally

I was just asking if a 20V belt did infact work as it seems to be a more common belt

[DALAZ_68]

I read what you said, a thread long ago said you could use a 20V belt........

the CA18DE one is dealer direct only at:

autozoneadvancepepboys

so noone has one locally

I was just asking if a 20V belt did infact work as it seems to be a more common belt

mah bad...i was drunk lol

lloll...aight well if u need one i can try finding one locally today and send it out tomorrow overnight if i can

[shmex]

Hey great writeup steve....gonna need this in the future

[ca18detgabby]

this maybe a dumb question, but the crank pulley..........

everytime I turn the 1 1/16 nut the motor turns........ what is the trick to getting it to break w/o rotating the motor? Or is it supposed to? I used a breaker bar, but not getting....... the snap on impact wrench didnt even work.......

[float_6969]

Usually an impact will take it off, but you'll need a 1/2" drive, a 3/8" doesn't have the nutz.

The shop I do some part time work for has this nifty thing that you hit with a hammer to break them loose. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/parts/pr ... p_id=21626

There isn't a picture unfortunately. Otherwise you might try using a breaker bar, unhooking the coil packs, and cranking it over. Make sure the motor turns the right way, but IIRC, that should break it loose too.

[ca18detgabby]

very cool. I want one of those. do I want one of the 33 or the 34?

[float_6969]

Oh, that's confusing. Those are replacement part part-numbers. You want the HIW3.

Unfortunately, I don't think you can buy snap-on parts online. I think you have to go through a local rep. I could be wrong.

[ca18detgabby]

I googled the part number and found it.

you can get it on snap on's site.

my BFs brother has a hookup at UTI that get me 1/2 off

[float_6969]

Did you try the starter thing? I've done it before and it works well. You're still SOL trying to tighten it though and that tool won't help with that part of it either.

[DALAZ_68]

i was able to jut hit it a few times wiht the impact gun...though i did soak for about 12hrs with PB blaster...and the next morning took about 4 tries but the ***** finally came loose

[ca18detgabby]

so ive been very negleticful and spent time with the G........ done some wire tucking and cleaned up a bunch of the wiring on the S well I had some work room(odd to say for such a small engine eh?).

Anywho, I was about to put the timing belt back in and get everything rolling when I realized I didnt have the motor "preset" to TDC......

is there something I can do now that the timing belt is off w/o damaging components in my head?

god I cant believe I did that sometimes I get to eager.........

PS you should add the step to "set motor to TDC before removing timing belt for people like me who are a tad slow

[DALAZ_68]

so ive been very negleticful and spent time with the G........ done some wire tucking and cleaned up a bunch of the wiring on the S well I had some work room(odd to say for such a small engine eh?).

Anywho, I was about to put the timing belt back in and get everything rolling when I realized I didnt have the motor "preset" to TDC......

is there something I can do now that the timing belt is off w/o damaging components in my head?

god I cant believe I did that sometimes I get to eager.........

PS you should add the step to "set motor to TDC before removing timing belt for people like me who are a tad slow

well what we did, the belt itself had dots to match up wiht the cams and sprocket ( i believe )

and we just lined it up, counted teeth on the belt to make sure, added tension, re installed things, installed the CAS and she fired up...

but i dunno...ill add it tonight at home

[sjbsuperman1425]

quick FYI, just called Advance auto and another part number, idk if they changed it or not, is 95137..not sure of brand or anything, but i couldn't find one on there website so i called and asked..and it was $22.46

[kn13]

NOTE: the radius of the center of the pulley mounting area on the pump FWD CA18de is different. FWD+RWD or RWD+FWD leads to exploding pumps, make sure u have a pump from a 86 200sx single turbo!!!

thought they were the same?? so i got awd ca18det for my FWD pulsar. should i get a ca18de pulsar water pump? or get the rwd water pump and slap the awd pulley on it. good thing i read this before i ordered a new one.