But searching for an answer on which kit to get. I have an S14, but ebay S14 SRs have the top type intake manifold. So wondering if I should get the s13 SR piping since thatll fit closer to the KA intake.

But then not to sure if the S13 chasis piping is completely off compared to S14 piping

anyone?

Team Race Bread - P&J forever!

I have the jgs setup, it's miles away from the mbc lines compared to a SSAC top mount mani

current is a t3 top mount, got an awesome trade and it was brand new...

so far its holding up fine, maybe has 50 miles on it, now if my turbo would stop smoking

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r.i.p. Dad I miss you
06/14/54~04/18/09
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r.i.p. Lee
09/01/89~09/28/06

is chinese... and alot of their stuff is copies of copies

ETD is CXRacing, they're quick, decent, cheap- and cheap

also small update, t3's eat 2 to 2.5 adapters(rubber) for lunch

manifold still rocking out

master has overheated once during drifting, I think my sheild is working that out, know soon.
So I will concure that turbine placement is a lil off, but its an equal length manifold.... what can you do

ssac topmount, besides being too close to master cylinder was awesome. I used hockey puck in early 06 and was $$$$$. my manifold was the only ebay part other than bov. stay away from blaast performance . com horrid turbo. brand new. produced no boost. refused to refund. sold the turbo for 1/2 the price to someone that wanted a jacked turbo. I am thinking bout an ebay kit on my new project till i save for swap.

Quote, originally posted by WDRacing »

Relax and apply boost for instant happiness

Check out my build... http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...build

I've been running a chinacharger t3 .50 coldside .63 hot side. i believe.

I ran it at 5 psi for about 1000 miles, and it held up great.
Then i went to 9 psi which i've been running for about 2000 miles. And it's still holding up just fine. And thats beating on it a lot and went to the track twice.

In my opinion it is well worth the like 130 bucks i payed for it.

obviously i'm also running a restrictor.

I've also been running the top mount ssac t3 tubular manifold and that's held up just as good since day one and i've been running it the whole time i've had my car turbo'd. I put a flex pipe in the exhaust to relieve the stress from the manifold which i know not a lot of people take the time to do.

Now i'm not telling people to go out and buy them or anythign like that. I'm just posting to let people know that so far they're not as bad as people make them out to be.
I see some people posting that their turbo lasted like 2 wot runs, and that they're manifolds crack after a week. I'm willing to bet most of the guys that have those problems don't run restrictors and don't put flexpipes in the exhausts either.....

Still no problems so far, my recent smoking problem was due to light weight oil (0w10 )

Like I always said, I'm not guaranteeing success with these parts, I am merely stating my experiences

Want a custom grill for your kouki s14?

I also had a Chinese GT28R that worked great for about 1.5 years. I sold it in excellent conditions for $250 when I upgraded to the bigger turbo. The guy that bought it said it only lasted him one WOT run, so he must have done something wrong when he installed it.

The Ebay intercooler kit and exhaust have held up great for the past 3 years. The Frankensteined bottom-mount T2 manifold I have now for the T3/T04E is the same one I bought from Ebay 3 years ago for the GT28R. It hasn't cracked yet.

[KNOCK ON WOOD.]

My 240SX is not currently a daily driver because of infant car seat issues, but I make sure to beat on it. Just within the past month and a half I've run 4 track events.

Quote, originally posted by the-chip-tuner »

I thought it about time I wrote a few things here about SSAC and their wares. I've purchased, sold, tarded, fitted, raced, removed, modified and blown up most of the parts they offer for Ford, Nissan and Honda over the last few years. Some of it has been downright junk, some of it has been OK (for the price), and some of it has been nothing short of superb! TURBOS First and foremost, SSAC et al DO NOT manufacture! they simply buy (in great quantity) from China! This is partly the secret to some of their very variable product lines and quality controls. For instance, I had a T3/T4 turbo from them that started blowing smoke the first time I hit boost. Embarassing, saying as I had installed it for a customer after they had purchased it from SSAC themselves. Nothing a full rebuild seal kit couldn't solve, and it did leave a semi decent product in the end. Likewise, I've had GT28RS knock-offs that have failed in short order; some down to poor installation and maintenance, some down to the product itself. Equally, my daily driver Nissan 200SX with a CA18DET motor is still going strong after 12,000 hard miles. There seems to be various 'life stages' to the turbos SSAC have supplied. As time has gone on, the products have gotten much better whilst some have remained abject junk. Some turbos have come with XS Power cast into the compressor housings; these should be avoided like the plague. I've never seen a good one of these. Buy it, rebuild it, save a few pennies, and put it down to experiance when it chews itself to pieces after a year. GT28s come in two flavours. Earlier ones seemed to have a rough finished compressor housing and quality was variable. Later ones had a smoother housing and seemed more reliable (I have a later one - see above for my experience). I have NEVER seen a repeat of the 'legendary' internet compressor housing failure due to it being held together with epoxy resin. It's easy to tell a housing that has been welded together; there will be marks around the circumference where the weld has been ground back. Never heard anything bad about the T70 turbos the Supra boys love either. Only installed one of these myself, but the owner soon discovered mid-corner boost buildup, and the car never saw the road again, sadly. MANIFOLDS (NASP AND TURBO) Again, more mixed reviews. We've all seen the horror pics of the Honda manifold that has failed at the flange and left the turbo dangling by its oil lines, right? We've all also looked at the pic and noticed that it's been cut up and rewelded at an angle so the massive turbo can clear the block, right? And we *DID* all look at the pic and realise that it was the owners weld that actually failed, right? Thought so. However, they can and do crack; especially the turbo manifolds. Hang 30lbs of turbo off a piece of cheap stainless and heat it to 700 degrees celsius, and sooner or later it's gonna fail. Again, earlier manifolds were worse, later are better but not great. One thing to bear in mind when you pay $150 for a turbo manifold... Bracing from the block to prevent cracking is not such a good idea. This will mount the turbo almost rigidly and force the manifold to take up all the changes in shape they go through when heated after you beat on it going down the on-ramp. This will exacerbate the problem. Most of the ching chong meow brigade have either braced the turbo flange to the header flange, or fixed the crappy welding. They're still cracking though. Oh, and by the way. When you've got one, make sure you clean out all the welding deposits that get left inside with a Dremmel, and check the flange isn't too warped. Yes, they're all warped, no, don't bother asking for a replacement unless it's 1/2" out like a Toyota 3S-GTE one I once had. They will virtually all pull flat with a bit of judicious torquing; and maybe some skimming of the flange in bad cases (this is a good time to introduce you to their variable customer services - sometimes mediocre, often dire, sometimes downright litigious. Don't contact them unless you absolutely have to. When you do, it'll often be the stock answer of ship it back to us, and we'll ship you another one). NASP manifolds (headers if you live in the colonies) can be variable. Mazda MX5/Miatas are dire. I fitted and early one and ended up calling the customer telling them it just wouldn't fit. I even wondered if it was from a different car. Same warped flange problems, but with added hassle of trying to make it fit at two points instead of just one. Some OK, most to be avoided. Very little experiance of them myself; would appreciate feedback from others? CATBACKS Well, rice-tastic if you like that sort of thing. Hard to make an exhaust badly for a turbo car. Most N/A systems sound horrible. Particularly pleased with quality and fit of Nissan SR20 S13/14 200sx systems, especially with a downpipe and cat eliminator. MR2 systems just loud enough to wake the dead regardless. Very popular with the 'bling bling' crowd. WASTEGATES JUNK. Mostly. The 38mm Tial style ones with the polished housings are ok. The 44mm ones with the finned housings should be melted down for scrap. Funky annodising does nothing to prevent boost spiking and creep. A lot of the problems are down to the crappy wastegate take-off ports ben slagged up and poorly located on the manifolds though. FPRs Are you kidding? Obviously not. I wouldn't like to comment. I'm not brave/stupid enough to risk one. BOVs Fine if you like that sort of thing, not my scene really. The ricers I install for seem to like them. Mainly available as turboXS knock offs. They all sound awfull, but anything to extend the life of those crappy turbos above. PIPING KITS AND INTERCOOLERS For once, not too bad. Those HUUUUUGE FMIC kits are 'bling bling' enough for all buy the most pimped out ricer, but the boost drop accross them can be a problem. Bigger isn't always better; this isn't porno, buy the right size for your application. Charge coolers (stamped XS Power) are actually pretty good. Piping kits are, and will always feel made of thin alloy without bead rolled ends. Do the right thing and have a local shop bead roll them at the very least. The kits are also made up of universal pieces and RARELY fit the intended application without SOME modifications. SUSPENSION AND CONTROL ARMS See above; I'm not that brave. Overall, food for thought. there will always be the crap (Toyota MR2 turbo downpipes - they WILL crack, regardless, and they've ALWAYS fitted badly) and the surprisingly good (Supra manifolds, T70 turbos, later T3/T4 turbos, some intercoolers). Most of it will be clouded and argued about by the 'h8erz' who have no experiance of the products first hand; merely being regurgitated conjecture from Honda-Tech will always detract from what can turn out to be a source of suprisingly usefull parts. Just remember, low-balling means you don't get to complain about it when your $400 turbo kit craps out on you. Careful maintenance, installation and not being too disappointed when it does crack means tht you can get performance on a budget. Just make sure you invest the money saved on the parts on a good tune instead. The old adage that there's no substitute for dyno time rings true, and anyone complaining that "dis shizzle melted mi pistenz dawg, y0!" needs to be hung up by the hoses of their rising rate fuel pressure regulators.

Intercooler - standard 31x11.5x3 design. It's a ebay intercooler, bar and plate design, no one seems to have any troubles with the intercoolers themselves.

Piping - Cold side looks awesome. It's really beefy. hot side...well It seems like i can bend it with my hands. I can't, but it's that thin haha. The cold side looks like it will line right up to my throttle body, but the engine isn't in so I can't tell. I had to take out my battery tray and cut a hole, but that's pretty much standard with any fmic kit. Hot side fits right through the hole made for it, so thats awesome. The "bov" flange had some pretty crappy weld on the inside, so I ground that off with my dremel. It didn't come with any 2" couplers, so I'm going to have to buy a 90 degree and a straight one to finish connecting the piping.

Fit - Amazing. I had to cut my bumper support, but some people just take it off. When I was looking at it I knew a lot of fmic kits use one bracket that attaches to the middle of the radiator core support, and since mine didn't have that I was a little worried. After looking at it a little more, I realized that the brackets line up perfectly with where the horns mount. Took those off, held up the intercooler and then did bolt - bracket - horn - core support and it fits awesome. For the bottom, they give you 2 straight brackets. I looked behind the intercooler and saw the two bottom bolts holding in the two sides of the rad core support, so i put the brackets in the vice and bent each side 45 degrees, and it lined up perfectly. I had to trim my bumper, but you can't tell it's been trimmed from the outside, only if you looked at the inside. Overall, installation was really easy. It came with t-bolt clamps, so no need to buy those. All it needs is the 2 2" couplers and clamps.

I am very happy with this kit, and the fit was astounding. I highly suggest it for someone in the market for an fmic and piping. It cost 140 bucks btw.

Everything's name brand and looks decent, but you'd still need alot of fab work (downpipe,wastegate dump,intercooler piping). The manifold is a revhard type, which can put the turbo very close to the brake master...

Other options if you simply can't find any are Enthalpy(which has fell off the face of the planet when it comes to customer service), and JWT, or MAYBE EfiSpecialist (but I've never heard of anyone on here using them.

If you don't want to tune yourself EFI seems legit. I talked to the guy for a little while, and he seems cool. Re-tunes are 50 bucks for when the boost bug bites and you end up with bigger injectors and a z32 maf...

/end threadjack, back to ebay parts.

what happened when your master overheated?

I need to put a shield on mine but there is absolutely zero space between the bmc and the turbo for a heat shield. I think i'm gonna make my own MM using AZhitman's diy and lower/clock my engine so i'll have more space and stiffer mounts..way to kill two birds with one stone

Quote, originally posted by Crazyirish »

Has anyone seen the "real jdm's ball bearing turbos" on ebay? I just saw a GT3076R for $499. Gotta be another chinese knock-off right?

i'm pretty sure that's chinese

Anyone had any first hand expierience with this kit? It seems rather decent for an Ebay Turbo Kit. Iv'e heard CX racing is the best of the low-end kits?

http://store.max-redline.com/s...etail

like this one?