I had a few minutes to spare this morning and did a little disceting of the Bose woofer in the spare tire well and also took off the Passenger Side door panel as well as the tweeter locations. Well let's get startedthis is just an overhead view of the subwoofer with the Bose system, the top cover is removed to expose the wooferthis is an up close of the woofer, you can obviously see that Bose was cheap on the cone material as you can see straight through it. You can clearly see the voice coil and leads under the clear dust cap.Before starting to remove the door panel these are the tools you'll need to get the task done. 10mm 1/4 drive socket. 1/4 ratchet. long needle nose pliers. phillips head screw driver. hook or angled pic.Door before removalto remove this piece, push with finger toward front of car then up ward and it pops right out. after unplug harness.to remove cover just start at bottom where you have a starting point and gently pry up from bottom to top until cover is removed. I just used my hands but you may need the pic to get is started. there is an indention at the bottom to place pic.this is the top screw behind the cover piece. screw driver needed.this is the bottom screw behind the cover piece. again screw driver needed.this is where the 10mm socket and ratchet are gonna be used.

once you have these 3 screws removed. looking at the door start on the lower left of panel and slowly and gently pry. work your way along the bottom then up the right hand side then move up on the left hand side. check to make sure you pulled all pop rivets from door. lift door panel up and toward you and EUREKA!! make sure you have something to cover the ground b/c you would have to undo all the locking mechanisms to get the panel completely off. a piece of cardboard to cover the concrete/ ground would do to prevent getting your door panel scratched.

once you get the panel removed this is what you get.here you can clearly see that you are going to have to create some sort of template for after market speakers. these measure 6x8 and can be removed with the screw driver.here is the tweeter cover removed. to get the cover removed just use a hook pic in crevice between A-pillar and cover. lift until you can get your finger under and then work your finger toward center of car and slide toward you. this is the overhead view of tweeter and you are going to need a 90* screwdriver or take out the windshield or remove the dash, i'm guessing on this as i just had enough time to put everything back together. I'll up date that later on getting the tweeter out on a later date.Oh I almost for got to share this one. Check out this killer Bose Bass amp that you get with the Rogue

Sorry about the post being so long an wordy, hope this help some of the DIYers

rogueagent08 wrote:Sorry about the post being so long an wordy, hope this help some of the DIYers

The more information the better, in my opinion! This is great, thanks for the pics! Have you decided what you will be replacing the Bose speakers with?

I'm going to be replacing all the Bose stuff with Powerbass equipment. My main focus is seeing what kind of enclosure I'm going to build for my sub. with the measurements that I took only 1 10" sub will fit, 2 probably could fit but it's really not worth the hassle. The real problem for the enclosure is mounting depth of the sub. with no spare I could fit just about any combonation of subs but I want to keep the spare. I also have plans on making the Rogue's storage compartments in the back an amp rack with full ventililation.

Hey great joband nice pics.. I was wondering how to do that safely. Let us know what you do for your sub. I am planning a sub to go in thesame place as the bose but bigger to handle a 10" as well and still be hidden.

Thanks

Thanks for sharing! The photos and explainations are great and will help a lot of us DIYer's avoid some mistakes along the way.

thanks for all the positive feedback. I'll be doing a sub enclosure in a week or so. it'll be 2 different designs. one that will be under the floor board and one that will be flush with the floor board. I also plan on making an amp rack with the pop-up cargo tray. I just have to see about getting the time to do most of this.

Make sure that you have the clearance. I was looking at doing the same with some radio gear, only to discover that the height clearance in the popup tray is not much. In my case, the cover will not close with something 2 and 3/4 inches tall!

much like yourself I have already measured for the clearance issues. I get a pretty good deal on Powerbass ( http://www.powerbassusa.com )equipment and I also like all their designs for their products plus not only using these products in my other car. thier amps are only 2 inches tall and with me remaking the floor of the pop-up organizer I should have all the clearance I'll need. with the organizer being closed the heatsinks will be useless without some sort of ventilation system, which is the only reason for remaking the floor of the organizer so that my ventilation system will be fully functional. I'll get more in detail about my amp, speaker, and signal processor choices once I start to get everything underway.