240sx Rear Hub Removal HELP!

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RCA
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I have a 95 240sx and I am installing a BBK, 6pot fronts and 4pot rears. The 6pots are allready installed. And look awesome but I am having a very difficult time removing the rear hub from the spindles.

I have used a combo of PB Blaster, WD-40, large hammer, a 5 ton 3-arm gear puller and an impact gun and I finally freed the passanger side hub but the driver side won't budge at all.

It is getting the best of me and I want to give up. I did search but got nothing. But now I am counting on the knowlege of the Nico community to keep my dream alive.

If videos/pictures are necessary let me know.


gumby74
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Just to make sure we are on the same page: You removed the 4 bolts on the inboard side and the huge axle nut on the outside correct?

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RCA
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Hmm.Axle nut... check4 Inboard bolts?... not so much

I saw them but they are attached to the spindle not the hub...Why remove them?

::starting to feel duncey::

one ton garage
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Why exactly are you trying to remove the whole hub assy? If you're just swapping brakes, you don't need to remove it, just the brake rotor. If you do want to remove the rear hub assy, you need to break free the big axle nut, and the four bolts that hold the hub assy to the upright/spindle, which are accessible behind the upright.

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RCA
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Well what I need to do is mount my caliper bracket to these "4 inboard bolt locations". That is why I need the hub out of the way. Inorder to mount my bracket to these holes the hub must be removed. Basicly I need the 4 bolt assembly to stay on the spindle.

Its a 4pot system with 12.2 inch rotors. The factory ear mount have to be cut off the spindle inorder to mount the new caliper and rotor. Its a complicated set up. But its soo worth it. I took some pics and will be posting them soon

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Dattebayo
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rcabrita wrote:I saw them but they are attached to the spindle not the hub...Why remove them?
LOL the hub attaches to the spindle (I call it the knuckle, whether I'm wrong about that I dunno) with those 4 bolts. It's a wheel bearing and hub unit all-in-one. I have removed it myself using just a breaker bar and my arms. Hard to believe you missed that! Get a copy of the FSM for future reference and check that other side again as you may have damaged it!

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RCA
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Dattebayo wrote:It's a wheel bearing and hub unit all-in-one. I have removed it myself using just a breaker bar and my arms. Hard to believe you missed that!
Hmm I didnt miss it as much as I didnt know the hub and wheel bearings were two separate parts on the 240. But when looking through some install pictures I noticed that only the hub was removed and not the wheel bearing and hub unit.

So what needs to happen is the hub needs to be removed and the wheel bearing need to stay on the "knuckle" so I can mount my bracket to the 4 bolt location, then I need to press the hub back on. Sorry for the confusion. When I get home tonight I will post the pictures.

So breaker bar huh??? When you did remove the hub from the bearing, how did you get the hub back on the wheel bearing assy??

Thanks alot guys I really learned alot from this thread so far. Nico is the šH!╥.
Modified by rcabrita at 1:25 PM 2/5/2008

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RCA
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I got the pics up now.

The first one is basicly what I am looking at now that I removed the hub

http://a850.ac-images.myspacec...9.jpg

The second is the drivers side situation.

http://a414.ac-images.myspacec...d.jpg

After looking through the install CD I found a picture that might solve my question. So the hub should be removed from the knuckle like this...

http://a391.ac-images.myspacec...e.jpg

And it shouldnt look like this...

http://a880.ac-images.myspacec...7.jpg

The last picture is supose to be the finished product...

http://a403.ac-images.myspacec...2.jpg

So far it looks like all i needed to do was remove those 4 bolts. But I just need some reassurance from you guys...

(To my defence, the manual failed to mention the removal of these 4 bolts)
Modified by rcabrita at 3:00 AM 2/6/2008

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RCA
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BUMP

I am removing my (spindle or knuckle) and I remember reading that if not removed correctly you can damage the ball joint on the RLCA and that would render the part useless.

My question is...Are there any write ups for the removal of the RLCA or is it stright foward and idiot proff?

If there is a specific precedure, I would appriciate the info. Also if you just have a few pointers or tips to share that would be awesome!

THANKS IN ADVANCE


gumby74
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It's kind of idiot proof, but use some common sense.Remove the 3 suspension arms from the top.Remove the axle from the knuckle.To preserve the balljoint, DO NOT use a splitter, balljoint seperator, pickle fork or whatever you choose to call it.Once the axle is out of the way, remove the castle nut and cotter pin and use a hammer to knock the knuckle loose from the balljoint.Anybody that has succesfully removed a cv joint from a fwd car using this method will know that there is a certain way to hit the knuckle.Chances are the boot is worn out at the balljoint anyway, but hopefully this helps.


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