Hey guys
I am currently planning on doing a vh45 conversion for my 300zx and was just wondering when i redo my car will it still be possible to get a car pc and run consult to keep an eye on things? ie: does conzult work on sensors from the engine's ecu? would it be compatible with the vh45 engine and ecu?
Thank youerik
will consult work with the vh45 engine??
The consult is just wires from the ecu to a connector in the car. When I did my swap I think there were 4 consult wires from the VH ecu but only 3 consult wires in the Z harness. I may be wrong, but in any case it wouldn't be that hard to take the consult connector out of the VH donor car and hook it up in the Z.
Re: (T45)
thanks for your help mate
i have either two options: run the vgdett ecu for small electronics such as air con and windows etc along side the vh ecu to run the engine
or
run an aftermarket ecu altogether
so either way i should hopefully be right with consult
i have either two options: run the vgdett ecu for small electronics such as air con and windows etc along side the vh ecu to run the engine
or
run an aftermarket ecu altogether
so either way i should hopefully be right with consult
Re: (mtcookson)
oh ok cheers. what have you done with your vh45 conversion in regards to that?
-
mtcookson
- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 12:43 pm
- Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX
1992 Iinfiniti Q45
and much much more - Contact:
Nothing yet sadly... I need to change my sig to say that I have most of the parts needed for the swap but none of the work done. A business I've been putting together has killed my car time as well as other car projects that I needed to get out of the way.
My plans are to just use the stock VH45 ecu and wiring. There should be very few wires that actually need adapted to the Z32 chassis harness. Definitely going to keep an a/c in there, probably use the Q45's but I'm not sure yet as the power steering and a/c are on opposite sides as compared to stock. My Z has R134 in it though so I'll probably put the Q45 a/c in and refill it with the good stuff, R12.
I think for power steering I'm going to use an MR2 electric power steering pump so that I can have the extra space normally taken by the pump for some different plans I have down the road.
My plans are to just use the stock VH45 ecu and wiring. There should be very few wires that actually need adapted to the Z32 chassis harness. Definitely going to keep an a/c in there, probably use the Q45's but I'm not sure yet as the power steering and a/c are on opposite sides as compared to stock. My Z has R134 in it though so I'll probably put the Q45 a/c in and refill it with the good stuff, R12.
I think for power steering I'm going to use an MR2 electric power steering pump so that I can have the extra space normally taken by the pump for some different plans I have down the road.
On mine I went the cheap route, and actually it's probably the most reliable route with the best road manners. I used the VH harness and ecu but had the ecu tuned by Robert aka-NICO ECU. It has a switch with 4 different maps in it. It was cheap, $250 USD, and will push the VH to it's stock limits. I rebuilt the VH .040 over for the biggest displacemt possible using off the shelf parts. Did a bit of home port matching and am building a ram air setup using the stock Z air box and some 3.5 inch tubing and silicone elbows from ebay.
I used the stock Q power steering pump in the stock location. It hit the sway bar and I would have had to drop the sway bar about 2.5 inches to clear it. I didn't want to rip the front of the car off if I ever hit something like a speed bump so I clocked the ps pump about 90 degrees clockwise, used the Z output fitting as it sits a lot closer to the pump, used the Z input adapter as it sits farther out, modified the vh bracket to let the pump sit up as high as possible and had to drill a new mounting hole in it as well as modify the vh bracket that bolts to the front of the engine. It allowed me to mount the pump much higher and I only had to lower the sway bar about 1.25 inches. It sits lower but it's not the lowest point on the car anymore, the exhaust is.
This setup allows use of the Z reservoir with longer hoses, stock vh ps pump and belt, and the only custom thing I must buy is a high pressure hose to go from the pump to the rack. The other hoses are low pressure supply and return.
I too am going to try and run a/c after everything else is done.
If you use the VH ecu and harness it's only about 10-12 wires that need to be hooked up and you can use the connectors off the Z to make it plug and play. There is one connector by the ecu that you can cut off and just splice in, then there are 2 plugs on the drivers side (u.s.) fender well that you'll also need to splice in for relay controls. The ecu also bolts right in to the Z bracket and looks just like stock. The harness also runs through the firewall with just a lil bit of trimming to the rubber and also looks factory.
Other things needed to modify are oil pan/sump, exhaust mani's, hole in hood and adaption to transmission. If you're RHD TT you may have to modify the clutch master/booster too.
I was able to get the cruise to work with just modding the brackets. The cruise system is totally separate from the engine harness so it's basically just mounting points to modify and it should work.
This swap is pretty time consuming and fairly difficult but in the end it is a clean swap that retains all of the oem functions for a fun car with a great V8 that is silky smooth, ultra torquey and lighter than the V6. This should be a great touring car. If you're looking for over 300-400 hp then look for another engine unless you're going to boost it.
I used the stock Q power steering pump in the stock location. It hit the sway bar and I would have had to drop the sway bar about 2.5 inches to clear it. I didn't want to rip the front of the car off if I ever hit something like a speed bump so I clocked the ps pump about 90 degrees clockwise, used the Z output fitting as it sits a lot closer to the pump, used the Z input adapter as it sits farther out, modified the vh bracket to let the pump sit up as high as possible and had to drill a new mounting hole in it as well as modify the vh bracket that bolts to the front of the engine. It allowed me to mount the pump much higher and I only had to lower the sway bar about 1.25 inches. It sits lower but it's not the lowest point on the car anymore, the exhaust is.
This setup allows use of the Z reservoir with longer hoses, stock vh ps pump and belt, and the only custom thing I must buy is a high pressure hose to go from the pump to the rack. The other hoses are low pressure supply and return.
I too am going to try and run a/c after everything else is done.
If you use the VH ecu and harness it's only about 10-12 wires that need to be hooked up and you can use the connectors off the Z to make it plug and play. There is one connector by the ecu that you can cut off and just splice in, then there are 2 plugs on the drivers side (u.s.) fender well that you'll also need to splice in for relay controls. The ecu also bolts right in to the Z bracket and looks just like stock. The harness also runs through the firewall with just a lil bit of trimming to the rubber and also looks factory.
Other things needed to modify are oil pan/sump, exhaust mani's, hole in hood and adaption to transmission. If you're RHD TT you may have to modify the clutch master/booster too.
I was able to get the cruise to work with just modding the brackets. The cruise system is totally separate from the engine harness so it's basically just mounting points to modify and it should work.
This swap is pretty time consuming and fairly difficult but in the end it is a clean swap that retains all of the oem functions for a fun car with a great V8 that is silky smooth, ultra torquey and lighter than the V6. This should be a great touring car. If you're looking for over 300-400 hp then look for another engine unless you're going to boost it.