Urnext
Offline
92 posts
3 classic b13's and a slammed dodge d50
Mohnton pa
9-21-2007
|
| « Re: My S13 SR20DET Prep (positronone) | 2:36 PM 1/1/2008 |
|
yo man I know this is kinda off topic but whats your sig. all about
92 240sx convertible rb20det gt3076r top mountAse master certified IMPORT INTELLIGENCE
314A TURNER LANE
WEST CHESTER, PA 19380
http://www.importintelligence.com
|
duffman1278
Moe Man
Offline
6381 posts
89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!
The Mutha Land ca
4-1-2007
|
The way I got the rear main seal was I had to lift up the engine with an engine joist and than take it off the engine stand. Its really the only way. It comes off the same as the front one, you gotta yank it off but be careful just like the front.
|
computergamer12
Offline
12 posts
Geff IL
12-31-2007
|
| « Re: My S13 SR20DET Prep (positronone) | 4:41 PM 1/1/2008 |
|
looks like a very clean motor
!
|
computergamer12
Offline
12 posts
Geff IL
12-31-2007
|
| « Re: My S13 SR20DET Prep (positronone) | 4:41 PM 1/1/2008 |
|
and also good luck on the build!
|
positron_
240SX Padawan Learner
Offline
3566 posts
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Starkville MS
3-21-2005
|
| « Re: My S13 SR20DET Prep (Urnext) | 6:17 AM 1/2/2008 |
|
| Quote, originally posted by Urnext » | | yo man I know this is kinda off topic but whats your sig. all about |
The sig that I use sometimes "$500 for Dodge Colt headlights!"
Switched at birth?......
Thanks for the info on removing the seals people. 
Modified by positron_ at 4:18 AM 12/3/2008
Modified by positron_ at 4:21 AM 12/3/2008
|
Urnext
Offline
92 posts
3 classic b13's and a slammed dodge d50
Mohnton pa
9-21-2007
|
| « Re: My S13 SR20DET Prep (positronone) | 10:09 AM 1/2/2008 |
|
holy **** lol the funny part is I have a colt for parts and a 4g63 swapped colt and I never even noticed the lights were close to my 240 lol
|
homeslicej2
CIA Informant
Offline
4663 posts
90 240sx hatch Redtop SR
Rome GA
1-15-2007
|
| « Re: My S13 SR20DET Prep (Urnext) | 10:07 AM 1/3/2008 |
|
Looking good Posi I'd recommend a few more things too, make sure that your lower oil pan is not dented! If it is pound it out or get a new one, go ahead and replace any transmission seals you can get to as well, and install a new slave cylinder, get an S14/15 waterpump (supposed to flow better. Check out Frsport.com and compare the pics of the S13 WP to the S14/15 one). Make sure the thermostat you get is one for a stock SR (opens at 170, the KA one will fit in but it opens at 195 and SR's run a little hot to begin with, don't get a NISMO stat, it opens too cold IMO for a street driven SR). Have fun with the swap!
  http://hybridangle.com/ Looking for a great photographer? Check out this friend of mine.
|
positron_
240SX Padawan Learner
Offline
3566 posts
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Starkville MS
3-21-2005
|
| « Re: My S13 SR20DET Prep (homeslicej2) | 1:13 PM 1/3/2008 |
|
| Quote, originally posted by homeslicej2 » | | Looking good Posi I'd recommend a few more things too, make sure that your lower oil pan is not dented! If it is pound it out or get a new one, go ahead and replace any transmission seals you can get to as well, and install a new slave cylinder, get an S14/15 waterpump (supposed to flow better. Check out Frsport.com and compare the pics of the S13 WP to the S14/15 one). Make sure the thermostat you get is one for a stock SR (opens at 170, the KA one will fit in but it opens at 195 and SR's run a little hot to begin with, don't get a NISMO stat, it opens too cold IMO for a street driven SR). Have fun with the swap! |
Man...I already bought a Nismo thermostat and thanks again. I'll check that out.
|
BuLLeTdrift
Offline
976 posts
91 240sx fast baq
SacramentO Ca
2-8-2004
|
I'm using an S14/15 water pump. has one part that doesn't line up (extra bold hole, dont remember for sure), but it is all sealed up and works as it should. Unsure if it "flows" better tho, but that makes me smile that i got it on my Red top.
|
J240sx
Offline
337 posts
89 240sx
Milwaukee WI
5-12-2006
|
Good start. I plan on doing a swap down the line so keep the information and pictures coming.
Guys I belive the cost of this set up is clear"The whole setup ran me R1000" Never heard of an "R" denominational bill. The ratio of "R100" to a US Dollar is rougly the same as the ratio of unicorns to leprechauns.
|
homeslicej2
CIA Informant
Offline
4663 posts
90 240sx hatch Redtop SR
Rome GA
1-15-2007
|
| « Re: (BuLLeTdrift) | 4:53 AM 1/4/2008 |
|
| Quote, originally posted by BuLLeTdrift » | | Unsure if it "flows" better tho, but that makes me smile that i got it on my Red top. |
S13 pump  S14 pump  from FRsport's site: "S14 SR20DET water pump is also considered as an "upgrade" for S13 SR20DET motors due to the fact of redesigned pump for better flow." It does have the extra bolt hole, but as you said it's not an issue. It's supposed to flow better bc of the design, see how the S14 pump is sunken in more? Anyway, with the NISMO thermostat (or any very cold running stat, and 149 degrees is cold), from what I've read they open too soon and so they do not give the coolant in the radiator time to dissipate heat bc it doesn't spend much time in there before it goes right back in the engine. I have no personal experience with the NISMO though, as I have a stock thermostat.
|
Hijacker
240SX Moderator
Offline
13004 posts
'92 240sx Convertible
Olney IL
8-13-2003
|
Oi. The old S14/15 pump is better than the S13 pump debate. There is no evidence to support that "claim" . I still fail to see how it could possibly be considered to flow better when the pump is removed from the water stream. The blocks are cast on the 14s and 15s to channel the water to the pump. The 13 block lacks that casting, so all you're doing is pulling the pump away from the water stream. Please tell me how that is supposed to pump better? I fail to see how it can increase flow when the fin designs are the same and then the pump gets pulled out of the main stream of coolant flow. The whole "issue" with the S13 pumps is that they can cavitate at high RPMs. The basic design pumps great at normal engine speeds.And honestly, until FRSport put up that unfounded claim, nobody ever considered putting a late model pump on an early model block an upgrade. I remember comparing an S15 block with an S13 block and noting all the differences pertaining to the pump. That was before FRSport listed their "claim", and I had decided back then it wouldn't do jack sh1t to increase pump flow. I've even seen Mack from McKinney Motorsports argue against the S14 pump as well. I will continue my tyrade against using the later model pumps on the early model blocks until someone can show me empirical proof that it is truel an upgrade.
-Bart
| Quote » | Originally posted by Movingviolation240
What hammer, all I see is a Poundometer, it's a percision adjustment tool. |
| Quote, originally posted by audtatious » | Hey wait. My balls don't hang too low yet  |
S13 Auto -> Manual Swap / My 240SX / Convertible Top Replacement / Silvia Fog Light Wiring / DIY: SR20DET Rebuild
Stacey L. Childs, NICO Mom
|
homeslicej2
CIA Informant
Offline
4663 posts
90 240sx hatch Redtop SR
Rome GA
1-15-2007
|
| « Re: (Hijacker) | 8:04 AM 1/4/2008 |
|
^well crap  . I bought an S14 pump for my redtop. I didn't know that the S13 SR block was cast differently for the water to channel into the pump. This is the first I have heard that the S14/15 pump didn't work as better or even as well as the S13 pump, but I know the experience you have and I respect your knowledge of the SR. I'll look into this more, thanks bart.
|
Hijacker
240SX Moderator
Offline
13004 posts
'92 240sx Convertible
Olney IL
8-13-2003
|
I'll see if I can't get a picture of the block castings in the next few days. My buddy has an S15 block we're dropping in his vert. and I have my S13 block on the engine stand waiting on bearings for my rebuild. So i can do a side by side comparison to show the casting differences.btw went and found the two threads I rant and rave in fwiw
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=276786 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=263766
|
homeslicej2
CIA Informant
Offline
4663 posts
90 240sx hatch Redtop SR
Rome GA
1-15-2007
|
| « Re: (Hijacker) | 8:48 AM 1/4/2008 |
|
whoo-hoo! more wasted money!!!  Anyway, look forward to the pics. Know anyone that wants an S14 SR water pump? I'll put it up for sale next week in the classifieds.
|
codyace
Offline
994 posts
S14 w/redtop
Stroudsburg PA
4-26-2005
|
| « Re: (Hijacker) | 10:38 AM 1/4/2008 |
|
| Quote, originally posted by Hijacker » | | The whole "issue" with the S13 pumps is that they can cavitate at high RPMs. The basic design pumps great at normal engine speeds. |
Exactly!!!! It's the same issue with FWD SR's as well....get a underdriven water pump pulley, and all will be a-ok!
Cody Ace - 1997 240sx - SR20DET - GT2871r .64 - 400whp, 330 ft lbs
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com For badass ECU's/Cams/Clutches!
|
positron_
240SX Padawan Learner
Offline
3566 posts
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Starkville MS
3-21-2005
|
| « OEM Intake Manifold | 1:38 PM 1/4/2008 |
|
Today I took my intake manifold apart and cleaned it up. I'm gonna replace the gaskets and maybe the IACV as well.
Broke it down, intake runners, intake collector, IACV(idle air control valve) and the throttlebody.
The first thing I did was clean up the throttlebody...
It was pretty dirty.
Cleaned.
I'll replace the throttlebody gasket when I put the intake manifold back together.
The intake collector was full of carbon buildup.
I got some brushes and cleaned it out pretty good too. I'll replace the intake collector gasket as well.
The IACV.
I can't decide whether or not to clean this up or just replace it. I came across a write-up on how to clean one but I can't find it again.
Carbon build-up.
Got some new hoses to replace the ones on the intake manifold.
Modified by positronone at 11:22 AM 5/13/2008
|
240sxHitman
Offline
890 posts
Boosted '91 240sx
Long Island NY
5-30-2004
|
looking good so far, cant wait til i get my motor and start doing the same thing
|
positron_
240SX Padawan Learner
Offline
3566 posts
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Starkville MS
3-21-2005
|
| « Front Main Oil Seal Replacement | 10:36 AM 1/5/2008 |
|
I got my hands on a pulley puller so I could finally replace that front main seal. I tried using a prybar to work the loosened pulley off but I couldn't get it to move without putting a lot of English on it and I didn't want to risk cracking the oil pump front cover.
3 jaw pulley puller-AutoZone loan a tool program.
Looks like this.
Just take the puller and hook the legs on the pulley and get the big screw on your crank pulley bolt. The forum says to have the crank pulley bolt threaded in a tad and to place the puller legs on the 2nd or 3rd ridges of the crank pulley rather than the first.
Use a 13mm socket to crank on the pulley...
until the puller pops it free. You'll be able to see the crank pulley as it gets backed off the crank while you turn the pulley puller.
Front main oil seal. Part#13510-53J10
The oil seal has two sides that are different and it has to be placed in a specific way so make sure you get it right the first time. This is the side that goes in towards the engine, notice the big grooves...
and this is the side that goes outward toward the front of the car.
I first tried to remove the old main seal with a small flathead screwdriver, be careful not to ding or scrape the crank says the FSM. I couldn't really get it out with this small screwdriver. This made me very uncomfortable when I couldn't get it out because I know this is a sensitive area on the engine and I didn't want to damage anything or mess this up. I tried to work the screwdriver around the seal and then tried to pry out the outer edges but only managed to tear it slightly.
It started to come apart after I ripped it
After trying that I got a prybar and in a clockwise motion was able to wedge the main seal out one side at a time...
until it popped out.
 
I took the new seal and oiled it up and inserted it on the crank.
The FSM says to use a seal driver or an appropriate tool to install the new seal which I didn't have so I just used the old seal. After getting the new front main seal in place, I positioned the old seal directly on top of it and used a small hammer to pop it into place. These seals are very hard so it was quite solid for the poundometer to do it's thing.
Got it in, checked it to see if it was seated correctly and lined up. Good to go.
Now is a perfect time to clean this area which is hard to get to with the crank pulley on.
I would advise anyone who attempts this to place a piece of metal between your crank pulley bolt and the puller screw to keep this from happening to your crank pulley bolt when you turn the puller screw. It dug into my crank pulley bolt slightly.
I put the crank pulley back on. I was worried about mounting the pulley back on...what about the timing marks, how is this pulley going to get back to it's original position? What I hadn't realized was that the crank pulley has a indention on it that matches up with the crank so it only mounts on one way which is how it remains in it's original position so problem solved. I'm going to get a lightweight underdrive pulley so I just barely put the stock pulley back on without torquing it down.
The crank pulley is torqued to 105-112ft.lbs.
*I later decided to opt out of getting a lightweight crank pulley.
A SEAL PULLER AND SEAL DRIVER KIT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR REPLACING YOUR SEALS!!! I DIDN'T HAVE ONE WHEN I DID THIS SEAL AND I REGRET IT! I was very nervous about doing this so if anyone who has done it before sees something that I did wrong then please let me know.
Modified by positronone at 11:33 AM 5/13/2008
|
homeslicej2
CIA Informant
Offline
4663 posts
90 240sx hatch Redtop SR
Rome GA
1-15-2007
|
| « Re: Front Main Oil Seal Replacement (positronone) | 5:32 AM 1/7/2008 |
|
Looks good As long as you didn't score the metal around the seal area it should be fine.
|
Hijacker
240SX Moderator
Offline
13004 posts
'92 240sx Convertible
Olney IL
8-13-2003
|
The service manual sattes don't score the crank, but really you should be more worried about the surface on the front cover. The crank never touches the oil seal, but the front cover sure does. If you score it up, you run the risk of leaking.Also, they make seal pullers that are great for pulling oil seals out. What are you using to clean out the throttle body and intake mani? I've always used carb cleaner, which does wonder for cutting gunk out without having to get brushes and junk up in there. It would also help you clean out the IACV since you have it off. Corey240 did a how to on using Seafoam to clean the IACV, but that was with the motor still in the car. All you would need to do is spray some carb cleaner down into the valves of the IACV to clean out the carbon gunk. If you can swing it, 3M makes these great little buffing pads that you can attach to an air tool that will clean the gasket surfaces without tearing the metal up. It leaves a really nice finish behind and gets rid of all the old gasket material. Since you look like you're replacing a ton of your gaskets, go to Courtesy and you can get just about every gasket you need for a fair price. The only one they don't have is the IACV, but FRSport has that one. Also, if you are going to replace the IACV, West Covina Nissan has them for a little cheaper than FRSport. Just look up their eBay store.
|
tiger
Offline
1250 posts
BarefootRacer!
Hville tn
5-3-2005
|
| « Re: (Hijacker) | 12:20 PM 1/7/2008 |
|
awesome thread, makes me wish I had an old dirty SR or RB sitting on my patio to rebuild.. it's so fun, kinda like a puzzle.  Keep it coming, you're doing really good. Love the pics. heh.
  
|
duffman1278
Moe Man
Offline
6381 posts
89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!
The Mutha Land ca
4-1-2007
|
Looking even better now man! I think I'll have to take out my manifold like you and clean it up.
|
positron_
240SX Padawan Learner
Offline
3566 posts
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Starkville MS
3-21-2005
|
| « Re: (Hijacker) | 1:04 PM 1/7/2008 |
|
| Quote, originally posted by Hijacker » | | The service manual sattes don't score the crank, but really you should be more worried about the surface on the front cover. The crank never touches the oil seal, but the front cover sure does. If you score it up, you run the risk of leaking. Also, they make seal pullers that are great for pulling oil seals out. What are you using to clean out the throttle body and intake mani? I've always used carb cleaner, which does wonder for cutting gunk out without having to get brushes and junk up in there. It would also help you clean out the IACV since you have it off. Corey240 did a how to on using Seafoam to clean the IACV, but that was with the motor still in the car. All you would need to do is spray some carb cleaner down into the valves of the IACV to clean out the carbon gunk. If you can swing it, 3M makes these great little buffing pads that you can attach to an air tool that will clean the gasket surfaces without tearing the metal up. It leaves a really nice finish behind and gets rid of all the old gasket material. Since you look like you're replacing a ton of your gaskets, go to Courtesy and you can get just about every gasket you need for a fair price. The only one they don't have is the IACV, but FRSport has that one. Also, if you are going to replace the IACV, West Covina Nissan has them for a little cheaper than FRSport. Just look up their eBay store. |
I didn't have any idea about the seal pullers or I definitely would have gotten one and yes I was extremely worried about scoring up the outer pump cover around the outer edges of the main seal so I ditched the small screwdriver and got the big prybar and went at it from the inside out...much easier and less of a chance of marking up the cover. I used carb cleaner on the the throttle body, intake collector and the IACV. I only used the brush on the intake collector because there was some carbon in a hard to get to spot in there that wouldn't completely come off with just spraying. Good tip on West Covina!
Dirty.
Clean! The carb cleaner did wonders on cleaning out the IACV, I think I'm just gonna keep this one.
|
Hijacker
240SX Moderator
Offline
13004 posts
'92 240sx Convertible
Olney IL
8-13-2003
|
Lucky you. My extra IACV had the adjuster screw completely destroyed on it. Looks like an ape bottomed the screw out and then kept trying to turn it further -_-Since this is going on my built motor, I'll just have to bite the bullet and buy a new one with the updated metal screw.
|
tiger
Offline
1250 posts
BarefootRacer!
Hville tn
5-3-2005
|
| « Re: (Hijacker) | 1:29 PM 1/7/2008 |
|
I'd like to replace my IACV, maybe when I get baller enough to buy a GReddy manifold. Good Job dude.
|
BuLLeTdrift
Offline
976 posts
91 240sx fast baq
SacramentO Ca
2-8-2004
|
by any chance, do you have a pic of all the poop that came out of your IACV and intake mani/runners? there is a thread where people just spray a can of carb cleaner into the IACV and think its really going to help. I cleaned mine the way you did, but didn't take any pix. its amazing how much crap comes out of those things. Anyways, this is making me antsy to buy another SR to work on. GREAT job so far.
|
positron_
240SX Padawan Learner
Offline
3566 posts
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Starkville MS
3-21-2005
|
| « Thermostat | 3:24 PM 1/8/2008 |
|
Today I got bored so I swapped out the thermostat.Tools needed:
Socket wrench
Socket extension
10mm socket
Liquid gasket
Razorblade 
Water outlet houses the thermostat.
Use a 10mm socket to remove the water outlet.
After I removed the bolts I had to man-up on the water outlet to bust it loose.
OEM thermostat. Note the position of the jiggle valve.
Pull it out.
Replacement thermostat.
Nismo vs. OEM-if it's anything like the suspension parts then it's a highly overpriced copy of the stock part.
I got a razor blade and removed the leftover gasket on the water outlet and the block.
Place the replacement thermostat in with the jiggle valve upward.
Get some liquid gasket ready and put a 2-3mm bead around the water outlet neck and position it on the block then hand thread the bolts on tight and let it sit for an hour.
Come back after an hour and then tighten or torque to 2.7-3.7ft-lbs. I didn't use a torque wrench here on account of possibly busting something...it's only 2 to 3ft-lbs. come on.
Modified by positronone at 11:39 AM 5/13/2008
|
duffman1278
Moe Man
Offline
6381 posts
89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!
The Mutha Land ca
4-1-2007
|
That motors coming along NICE, hopefully you should have a smooth running motor with not startup problems good work man
|
trusts14
Offline
12 posts
s14
oklahoma city ok
1-8-2008
|
| « Re: (duffman1278) | 5:40 PM 1/8/2008 |
|
so far looking good. we have the same engine stand.
|
positron_
240SX Padawan Learner
Offline
3566 posts
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Starkville MS
3-21-2005
|
| « Re: (BuLLeTdrift) | 6:54 PM 1/8/2008 |
|
| Quote, originally posted by BuLLeTdrift » | | by any chance, do you have a pic of all the poop that came out of your IACV and intake mani/runners? there is a thread where people just spray a can of carb cleaner into the IACV and think its really going to help. I cleaned mine the way you did, but didn't take any pix. its amazing how much crap comes out of those things. Anyways, this is making me antsy to buy another SR to work on. GREAT job so far. |
No pics but I should have taken some of it, that bucket of water was completely black after I let that stuff run off into it. There was a lot of it yes!
|
positron_
240SX Padawan Learner
Offline
3566 posts
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Starkville MS
3-21-2005
|
| « Re: (duffman1278) | 6:58 PM 1/8/2008 |
|
| Quote, originally posted by duffman1278 » | | That motors coming along NICE, hopefully you should have a smooth running motor with not startup problems good work man |
I hope and pray for no startup problems!!!! 
|
otterman
Offline
3353 posts
Oklahoma City OK
2-21-2006
|
At first I was gonna be a dick about how this average swap isn't worth a build thread...
But this is a good thread for people who are doing their first basic/stock SR swap to check out. Lots of good pics and such.
|
tercel drifter
Offline
217 posts
sr20det s13
edmonton alberta
9-24-2007
|
good work, and liking the pics and step by step and also good job on ur walbro 255 write up!
|
Slideways^Jordan
Offline
703 posts
1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back
La Porte Texas
8-17-2007
|
| « Re: My S13 SR20DET Prep (positronone) | 11:31 PM 1/8/2008 |
|
Googood job on paint on painting the motor the aluuminum color itlooks really clean whats the name of and where can i get it at Napa cause i want todo the same to my SR Redtop after i put my head back on.
Check out my SR Head and Turbo Build Thread.
400+HP on Topmount coming soon.
Work in progress: My new S13 Platform 2 tone Coupe FTMFW 
 
http://www.paintwithpearl.com/flakestore.htm
|
positron_
240SX Padawan Learner
Offline
3566 posts
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Starkville MS
3-21-2005
|
| « Re: My S13 SR20DET Prep (Slideways^Jordan) | 2:46 AM 1/9/2008 |
|
| Quote, originally posted by Slideways^Jordan » | | Googood job on paint on painting the motor the aluuminum color itlooks really clean whats the name of and where can i get it at Napa cause i want todo the same to my SR Redtop after i put my head back on. |
Thanks for the comments people! As for the paint I got Duplicolor engine enamel aluminum
Aluminum
DE1615
|
94_240sx
'Vert Encyclopedia
Offline
7127 posts
94_240SX
DFW TX
2-28-2005
|
| « Re: (positronone) | 11:52 AM 1/9/2008 |
|
As usual, good job!!! I'm fan of your write-ups, man...
I have some comments.1. That engine enamel will smell awful for a while when car is ready and running. Don't get surprised if you smell something's burning under the hood. I used same spray paint for my exhaust and oh boy... it didn't smell good. 2. Are you going to remove overspray on valve cover? I wish you covered it up better. 3. Front main seal is just like diiferential side seals. I used a big socket when I installed it. 4. Around the thermostat, you can just clean up the liquid gasket with fingers after it dries up. It'll give you cleaner look. I know it's hard take pictures when you are covered in oil and stuff, but please do take a lot of pics and update this thread with details. I'll check often.
|
positron_
240SX Padawan Learner
Offline
3566 posts
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Starkville MS
3-21-2005
|
| « Re: (94_240sx) | 12:43 PM 1/9/2008 |
|
| Quote, originally posted by 94_240sx » | As usual, good job!!! I'm fan of your write-ups, man...
I have some comments.1. That engine enamel will smell awful for a while when car is ready and running. Don't get surprised if you smell something's burning under the hood. I used same spray paint for my exhaust and oh boy... it didn't smell good. 2. Are you going to remove overspray on valve cover? I wish you covered it up better. 3. Front main seal is just like diiferential side seals. I used a big socket when I installed it. 4. Around the thermostat, you can just clean up the liquid gasket with fingers after it dries up. It'll give you cleaner look. I know it's hard take pictures when you are covered in oil and stuff, but please do take a lot of pics and update this thread with details. I'll check often. |
Thanks man! Good looking out on the paint smelling after startup because I would have been freakin' out if I smelled something burning under there!  I just hope that it doesn't flake up but from talking to people who have used it before and haven't had any flaking even after years, I'm confident it'll look good and stay put. I really should have taped that valve cover off better even though I am going to get a new one...that was my bad. I wish I had known about the socket thing earlier, I was looking around my place for something to place over that thing and that 36mm socket that I used on those brakes would have done the do. As far as the leftover gasket around the thermostat, yeah I'm gonna pull it off after it's done setting so thanks again.
|
positron_
240SX Padawan Learner
Offline
3566 posts
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Starkville MS
3-21-2005
|
| « Engine/Parts Cleaning | 11:58 AM 1/11/2008 |
|
Believe it or not I couldn't find Simple Green at any store here so I got the next best thing....Mean Green.
So far I've gone through about 3 bottles of this stuff and it works wonders on cleaning up a engine and engine parts. Just spray it on watch the grime roll down. For example just check out what it did for my KA P/S pump.
The power steering pumps were the filthiest things I had to clean yet, they were totally covered in crap. I always thought the P/S pumps were black but to my suprise it turned out to be gray underneath all that filth that it was covered with.
See!Another little tip for all those grease encrusted nuts, bolts and miscellaneous parts. I just took them, put them in a cup and let them sit in pure Mean Green for a couple of hours and they came out looking almost new except for the scratches.
 Quick question, my SR's powersteering pump appears to have two pressure hoses on it, would that be a HICAS pump?
|
| First 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 > Last |
