NA Monster SR20!!!

For discussion of front-drive SR20DE, SR20VE and SR20DET engines!
Ser200sx567
Posts: 165
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:59 am
Car: 240sx

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I'm building an NA Monster sr20. I know you can get more HP out of a turbo motor but I can't afford that **** LOL. I'm a machinist and know a few so we are teaming up to put together an NA Monster SR20. You guys are right about the turbo and my build not being cheap. So I rethought my whole build and decided to see how cheap I could make this build and still make some good N/A power V. Just throwing a bunch of money at it. Below is my modified parts list as you will see it is conciderably cheaper.

This will be intersting to see what it makes on the dyno this summer.

Thanks for your comments and input. So far I'm waiting for a few more parts orders to come in then It will be ready for Final clean and Assembly

Parts list:

OEM size 11:1 (After resurfacing of block and head) N-1 SR20 pistons from GSpec Performance, they are also coated I'm looking forward to getting them and finding what the coating is.

Sealed Power Rod and Main Bearings

GTIR Main Bolts, and AJUSA Brand replacement Head Bolts

Just picked up a new BECK/ARNLEY timing kit for $94 (I love Whole sale Closeouts)

Manganese Bronze Guides all new in my B14 Low port head, Due to my build schedual I'm using this head to allow me to use my current intake which is being porting to match my intake ports.

OEM Replacement sized Valves From SI that are Stainless Steel

B13 cams, P2M Rocker arm stops (for future spring and cam upgrade).

New Oil pump front cover, Damage in shipping for the block I bought

Fully counter weight crank, Balanced to 0.5 gram.

Wiesco MLS head gasket too

Future Nology Pro Fire Ignition coil If anyone has some experiance with this let me know what you thought of it.

Here is where my engine is at now. The block was decked and honed, I found the cylinders to be in the middle of my spec so It will be fine. I installed and reamed and honed my new Bronze valve guides they will provided a lower friction coefficiant and will last longer than the OEM Cast Iron ones.

My B14 low port has been fully ported,polished and now has a 3 angle valvejob. There was a ton of casting flash in this head behind my exhaust valve seats I was really suprised to see it, and my stillen header gasket had some insane overlap of my exhaust ports. So I'm going to match my header to my exhaust ports.

I'm looking to run Some ITB's from http://www.tweakit.net for the sr20 check it out they look to be top quality. I'm working on some pics I'll put them up as the build goes on.

After the resurface and hone

After cleaningMy B14 Low port head

Top view of the head, bronze guides, 3angle valve job, port and polish.

Modified by Ser200sx567 at 7:55 AM 12/4/2007

Modified by Ser200sx567 at 5:03 PM 12/13/2007

Modified by Ser200sx567 at 4:00 PM 12/30/2007

Modified by Ser200sx567 at 8:06 PM 12/30/2007
Modified by Ser200sx567 at 9:06 AM 1/8/2008


JaPPster
Posts: 81
Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 6:02 am

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SR16VE pistons will give u 12:1 cr, think about them.. about valves, go for.5mm oversize, otherwise u'll need to work a lot on new valve seats

Ser200sx567
Posts: 165
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:59 am
Car: 240sx

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With the sr16ve pistons, would I have any valve clearance issues with Jim wolf C2 Camshafts? How streetable is 12:1 in the SR20? Thanks for the info.

JaPPster
Posts: 81
Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 6:02 am

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i would love to give u an answer, but i'm building NA sr20 aswell and didn't finish yet, so can't help u m8..good help can be andreas miko on sr20 forum, but i guess he helps only his buddies, cuz i asked him for help several times, and he didm't even bother to reply.. dunno, but i think piston to valve clearance should not be an issue, otherwise u shim piston where needed, use some clay..

JaPPster
Posts: 81
Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 6:02 am

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u can email me on: [email protected] we can help each other with our projects, i'm not very often here

cheers m8

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NismoB13
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VE pistons and JWT C3 cams with every bolt on will be the best. Adding ITB's will add more power, but you then have to add a standalone ECU. You could have a 210whp SR20, but for the same amount of money, you can go turbo and have 300whp

I like N/A, but if you want power, boost is your friend.

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nametakennow
Posts: 10363
Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
Car: '06 MINI Cooper S

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^True.

I don't know what led you to believe that NA is going to be cheaper per hp, because on this car it isn't. You can be putting down ~200whp reliably for a $1000 or even less if you know where to look.

Ser200sx567
Posts: 165
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:59 am
Car: 240sx

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Dose anyone know where I could find some dyno number for a build like this?

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jt15833
Posts: 984
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 3:12 pm
Car: 95' 240SX
Location: Georgia

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turbo cars are hands down the cheapest power per dollar solution.

your build sounds like building a sick turbo engine with all new internals just minus the turbo. obviously it won't be cheaper if you add a turbo at this point in the game, but you can get more power from going turbo w/o doing everything you are doing.

the thing with yours is it'll be very fun, powerful n/a's have a very enjoyable streetable power band.

good luck to you!

Ser200sx567
Posts: 165
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:59 am
Car: 240sx

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I would just like to point out that I'm going to give the block and head a final clean before it's assembled. I'll post some pictures of my rods and piston set up when the time comes. I decided to shot peen and hone out my stock connecting rods. I talked to a few people with experiance racing the SR20 and they have said the stock rods are more than adequate for a N/A application. The SE-R is also getting new belts, alternator, and exedy clutch.

I have an AEM WideBand and Apexi Neo currently installed. What is the most cost effective ignition system? I was thinking the Nology Pro Fire.
Modified by Ser200sx567 at 8:08 PM 12/30/2007

Ser200sx567
Posts: 165
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:59 am
Car: 240sx

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Latest low port head picture


computergamer12
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:55 pm

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looks nice!

Ser200sx567
Posts: 165
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:59 am
Car: 240sx

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Hey everyone, I got my new pics today and I put the best ones up. This is of my cylinder head assembly. Like many SR20 Enthusist I found that I need to shim the rocker arms in order to get them level to prevent wipeing out my cam lobes/rocker arms. After about 2 weeks of searching in between working on my car and other daily stuff I finally found the best way to measure the shims. This involved purchasing a nissan specialty tool that is essential to being able measure this down to 0.001". So I ordered this up and it's on its way. In the mean time my N-1 Pistons, Rings, And DET Main bolts should come in tomorrow. I'll post pictures of the block and rest of assembly then. Dose anyone know if you can post short video clips? any help with that would be great I would like to post it running.

Picture of my freshly machined SR head with it's new valves and an extra set of Manganese-Bronze guides (Missing link for HUGE RPM!! in valve train) so everyone can see what there all about.

Picture of my number 2 exhaust port. This finish has proven to provide next to no carbon build up in the exhaust ports. That red oil is the assembly lube that prevents dry start up, this is great stuff and I use it on every build I do.

Finished product, As you can see I have my valves in The head here.

If anyone needs there SR head shimmed like I did PM me I can help. Thats it for now, I'll post some more stuff In the next few days. Thanks

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nametakennow
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Youtube is generally the best place to post short vid clips.

Ser200sx567
Posts: 165
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:59 am
Car: 240sx

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Thanks I'll check that out and put a link to the clip of it on the thread after I get it up there.

Ser200sx567
Posts: 165
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:59 am
Car: 240sx

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The project is going good, here are some shots of the short block and pistons


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mookieusn
Posts: 13
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Car: 91 Nissan Sentra SE-R

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sweet motor bro. too bad i haven't had much luck with my sr20. got beat by a ls vtec integra again after dropping a newer 200sx motor into my b13. i'm going with a vw this time.

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audtatious
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Nice buildup.

stinkyturbo
Posts: 52
Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 2:34 pm

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looks nice.i dont know if anyone stated this, but if ur concerned about $$, wouldnt it make more power with just a t25 & be cheaper than it bieng N/A.??

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nametakennow
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It was mentioned, but this guy is on a mission to do it NA.

stinkyturbo
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nametakennow wrote:It was mentioned, but this guy is on a mission to do it NA.
Then he's going about it the wrong way. All motor builds consist of 3 things, big displacement, compression & cfm & he has niether of the 3. He stayed with a low cr, didn't increase the bore or stroke, & didn't port the head. A 3 angle valve job is like cleaning the ports. This is not a monster he's building, its a troll.If he wants to be different with a sr20, then I think he's building a good motor for a nitrous setup with the coated pistons & shot rods. Just ditch/sell/trade the ITB setup & go for a progressive direct port with a good fuel setup.

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Nismo77
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^^ What he said except the troll part...either way its still going to be a nice reliable DE..If you want to make big power though you need to go big bore and big stroke...but that would take big money also which is what your trying to avoid..SO on that note keep up the good work and cant wait to see the results .

Yellow4g63
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A little too late now but why didn't he just buy a SR20VE and springs and N1 cams and tune the ECU? You can hit some good #'s depending on the correction factor you use on the dyno. I myself only look at SAE HP but some people like it STD. Here is an example of a bolt on VE. It has Frankling Stage 3 cams (same profile as the N1's), stock cam gears, stock VE pistons, rods, Valve springs and a Calum real time ecu and 20VE factory header.

and for the people who like to look at STD dyno #'s

On the Side note saw a DE with SR16's pistons and cams put down 173hp on the same dyno.

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nametakennow
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I think he wanted to avoid full engine swaps altogether, at least that's what I gathered.

That said, I recently saw a how-to on a VE head swap. Seems like that with maybe 16VE pistons or something along those lines and all the machine work that he did anyway would put out quite nicely.

Yellow4g63
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The VE isn't really a engine swap since it's a fwd SR20 motor. I have seen it too many times people rebuild the DE's for all motor power and come up short of a Stock VE with boltons.

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RossStevens1
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stinkyturbo wrote:Then he's going about it the wrong way. All motor builds consist of 3 things, big displacement, compression & cfm & he has niether of the 3. He stayed with a low cr, didn't increase the bore or stroke, & didn't port the head. A 3 angle valve job is like cleaning the ports. This is not a monster he's building, its a troll.If he wants to be different with a sr20, then I think he's building a good motor for a nitrous setup with the coated pistons & shot rods. Just ditch/sell/trade the ITB setup & go for a progressive direct port with a good fuel setup.
what do you mean by cfm?

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karism
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stinkyturbo wrote:Then he's going about it the wrong way. All motor builds consist of 3 things, big displacement, compression & cfm & he has niether of the 3. He stayed with a low cr, didn't increase the bore or stroke, & didn't port the head. A 3 angle valve job is like cleaning the ports. This is not a monster he's building, its a troll.If he wants to be different with a sr20, then I think he's building a good motor for a nitrous setup with the coated pistons & shot rods. Just ditch/sell/trade the ITB setup & go for a progressive direct port with a good fuel setup.
It is very obvious to me that you have never built a highly tuned 4 cylinder engine in your life.

Please shut up if you do not have any knowledge,or at least ask if you dont know.

Stop trying to be smart,even though you are not

Karis

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karism
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Ser200sx567 : Excellent Job.

Iam very interested to see the out come of your project!

Thumbs up for the work so far!

Karis

JeremyNissan
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hmmmm, didn't Benfenner on sr20-forum make like 155whp on a stock DE with just tuning. Ya, pretty amazing. Don't forget a standalone or a calum ECU to tune with.

The sr16 pistons in a DE would be LOWER compression than 12:1. The DE head has .8:1 bigger combustion chamber. So a 12:1 VE piston would net 11.3:1 in a de.

I love the build. I think you will make really good power with it. With a good tune there is no doubt you can eclipse the 200whp mark. But a lot have tried and failed. I think a high revving sr20de with high compression and big cams is just the ticket.

I made 170whp on my stock VE, but that was all in the head design. I think a big cam in a de will do the same, but tuning is really the key. And those ITBs are going to sound so goood!

94gtirxe
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Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 5:18 pm
Car: 94 sentr gxe with gtir swap

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I.i am a little late on this one but i am new to the site. i did a real close build to what you are doing last year. 300z pistons port and polished head with jwt ecu and c3 cams. this thing sounded like monster with the cam lobes at an idle. it was a lot of fun but a pain to drive in the city below 4500 rpm. all the power was at 5 and above. i had alot of fun with it 9 sec in an 1/8th mile. like i said though it was a pain to launch below about 5500. i am sure you will be surprised at the results . when the cams come in at 5000 people with think your spraying or some hybride version of vtec. even with this set up if you break the 200hp mark on a real dyno test IE tested like you drive it you will have acomplished alot. Good luck dude and keep the pics comming


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