Saw another stripped interior so heres mine..

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Warped161
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Finished this about 2 weeks ago...it took forever between weather and just the time to do it.


Modified by Warped161 at 10:16 AM 11/3/2007


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98koukile
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Pretty clean, nice work

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grffnsmth
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Super clean!! What did you cover it back up with?

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Warped161
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8 cans of that stuff, and thanks

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kainvamp
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I like it, looks awsome

Crunkrich
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Looks great... how does the rubberized undercoat deal with the sound? I see it says it deadens it on the can, how well does it work?

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Warped161
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not sure yet, havent started it in a while, needs some motor work and im doing other things till that gets done.

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Quail
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Nice work! The undersealer stuff makes a really nice coating!

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Uberck
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wow dude that looks really good. how is the sound inside the car now? also how hard was it to get that old **** out?

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TKE SigO 258
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Uberck wrote:wow dude that looks really good. how is the sound inside the car now? also how hard was it to get that old **** out?
He already has said he hasn't started it yet. Dry ice gets the " **** " out.

But, anyways... I was thinking about using that product. But, I was concerned about how "rubbery" it actually is...

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Clawhammer
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Love the action shots.

Emperor_Tha
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where did you get the dry ice from?

nwmrkt
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looks good did you clean it to the bare metal? or just scuffed it?

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Loki
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Ooh, that is slick. Good work!

hbpignosePA
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first i was worried that it was gonna be a bucket seat, dash, and rollcage w/o cleaning up the sound deadening crap... but thats hella clean...

is this just a track car (or plan to?) i wouldnt gut mine since its a daily but if u are just using it for a weekend auto-x or drift car then +1 for u

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Warped161
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Wow thanks for all the responses so ok to answer them. You can get the dry ice from any ice cream distributor or check here http://www.dryiceinfo.com/ , i just scuffed the paint before spraying. full paint removal is not required or recommended. when the product dries it pretty firm, it all depends on how far back you hold the can- hold it close and you get smooth- hold it farther back and you get a rough surface like mine. its a summer only car that I'm going to turbo and I'm not entirely sure what I'm going to do next but just enjoy it and be different..i will also post my custom led taillight s soon. Again Thanks.

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night240
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Sorry, im like newb, but what's point with dry ice?

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poems2beats
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NICE!!! Dude did u prime it or does it just get darker as it cools? Im with the previous noob, what is the dry ice for?

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poems2beats
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cools.drys. my bad

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scrowley
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Very clean, the Dry ice must have been nice too heh, stripping mine without was a huge pain.

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S13Teddy
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It looks nice, but I guess I'm no longer a fan of the stripped interior. I've owned 3 cars with stripped interiors before I got the new with a complete interior, and I must say, I prefer complete interior way more.

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Warped161
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the interior was sorta trashed when i got it so i figured what the hell. I posted a link to why you use dry ice, it makes removing the black tar crap waaay easier. the color doesnt really change during drying i just cant get a clean pic of it because my camera doesnt want to focus on the ruff surface so it almost always looks fuzzy in pics. but it is black, the primary ingredient in the spray is asphalt.

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Duce40sx
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great!

mateoo
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nice..whats the step by step process of doing this?

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Warped161
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mateoo wrote:nice..whats the step by step process of doing this?
remove all your interior, rugs, seat, speaker trim, just in the rear though. Find a dry ice distributor http://www.dryicedirectory.com/usa.htm just use this link, dry ice is pretty cheap. it's best to keep it wrapped in paper in a Styrofoam container. using heavy winter gloves place pieces of the dry ice onto the sound deadening in the trunk, give it a few mins then tap at it with a hammer and chisel it will beak away into pieces. be careful around the fuel pump, its best to unplug it and just remove the metal cover plate. the material over the wheel wells is alot more tacky it's best to heat that with a heat gun or dryer and scrape it off. final cleanup of all the residue is done with goo gone and rags. after that scuff up the paint with a scotchbrite pad to prep it for paint. now before you paint your going to want to either mask off your wiring and taillights or unhook everything and move it out of the way. Also you will want to mask off the rear windows and locking mechanism for the hatch. Get yourself some bedliner spray (and a breathing mask) and go to town. i went through like 8 cans of the stuff, but did my rear hatch and back seat up to the doors. you may also want to get a plastic painters cover to go over your front seats to keep over spray off. Always keep tthe rear hatch open when spraying this stuff is toxic as hell, mine had asphalt and butane in it. lite a match and your gone! the closer you hold the can to the surface the smoother it seems to come out. Hope this helps any other questions just let me know.

odmoht
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so did you use the dry ice to get that tar thing off? because i am having a hard time taking it off. I'm using a long flat and a rubber mallet.

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Warped161
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yes, the tar stuff is the sound deadening material i refer to in the post above yours.

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Flicktitty
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looks great!

Thanks for the links.

raven2345
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that can of stuff works on tree wounds?!hahah, but yea, looks goodi'm hoping i'll be able to get some dry ice soon, as i have everything ripped out in the back

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pj
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the end product looks very nice!i agree with full interior, BUT ...im in the same boat as you are dude, my interior was pretty well thrashed when i got mine so its about half way out now. removing deadener without dryice is a effin pain...im going to try and get my hands on some and get my arse to work.maybe ill give that paint stuff a try too


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