I did the Z32 rear brake upgrade today. I read this page
http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm and was compelled to attempt this upgrade. Props to Al because it can be done and quite easily.
Tools needed:Jack JackstandsSocket wrenchSocket kit36mm socket27mm socket22mm socket19mm socket17mm socket10mm socketWrenches/10mm line wrench(for the brake hardlines)HammerScrewdriversNeedle nose pliersBrake fluidDrain pan
Z32 rear calipers.240SX to Z32 stainless steel rear conversion brake lines from ProjectNissan.Z32 ebrake extension kit from SuperautoBacs.Z32 spindles and hub assembly...I'm staying four lug so I only really needed the dust shield/ebrake assemblies and not the 5lug hubs or the aluminum spindles. Z32 Brembro rotors redrilled to 4lug from Heavythrottle.
To do this brake upgrade and stay 4lug you'll need to remove the spindles, rotors, calipers and brake lines both normal and ebrake, that is if you want to keep your ebrake.First you jack the car up and place jackstands in the appropriate places.You'll need the ebrake engaged in order to bust the axle nuts loose so that's where you should start. Don't be like me, disconnect an ebrake line first not realizing that the wheels will spin without them and waste valuable time putting them back on....estupido!!! Remove the axle cotter pin and adjustment cap.Use a breaker bar and the massive 36mm socket to bust the axle nut loose. You'll hear a loud screeching when it busts. Now that the axle nuts are loose you need to get to the spindles.Remove the top and bottom caliper bolts with a 17mm socket.You may have to wriggle it a little but the caliper comes off the rotor.You need to use something to suspend it and keep it out of your way.Go ahead and remove the axle nut that you bust earlier.The rear rotors are slip fit so just pull them off unless yours are rusted to the hub.Remove the axle spacer.
Your're almost to the spindles, now you need to disconnect the rear suspension arms from the spindle next.The traction link(18mm socket/ 3/4 wrench).The rear upper control arm(18mm socket/ 3/4 wrench).The toe rod(18mm socket/ 3/4 wrench).......and the strut to spindle nut(17mm socket).You may need a pry bar to persuade some of the arms off of the spindle.All arms removed.Use a rubber mallet to knock the axles out of the spindle. I only had to use the mallet on the passenger side, I pushed the axle out with my fingers on the drivers side.If it doesn't want to budge then use something to hold against the tip of the axle so you can "hammer and chisel" it out.Axle out.Push the axle to the side and you have access to the rear lower control arm nut.Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin.If you're a poor man like me and don't have access to a impact gun then you need bust the hub bolts loose while the spindle is still attached to the RLCA...you'll need the leverage to do so. There are four hub bolts that need to come off with a 19mm socket.Use a 22mm socket to bust the RLCA ball joint nut loose.Use a ball joint tool to pop the ball joint loose from the spindle.Insert the tool between the spindle and the ball joint and use a hammer to hit the end of the tool to pop it out.My next project needs to be a new set of RLCA's because these ball joints are shot...pudding anyone?Now that you have the spindle off you can remove the hub bolts.Ran into a little problem here, when you take the hub bolts out the one part separates into three parts, the spindle, the hub and the dust shield. My drivers side spindle was seized apparently by the heat that was generated over a period of time and it would not come apart. I took it to a friend at a dealership and he pressed the hub out of the spindle for me. The passenger side spindle fell apart the second I removed the last bolt.Here's the comparison between the 240SX spindle(top) and the Z32 spindle(bottom). The 240SX spindle is iron where the Z32 is aluminum. I would have liked to use the Z32 which is 7lbs. lighter but I would have had to get coilovers or Z32 shocks/struts because as you can see the only thing different is where the strut to spindle mounts are. They are completely different.While I had my spindles off, I gave them a fresh coat of black.The Z32 ebrake assemblies bolt up to the 240SX spindles by way of the hub bolts and this hole above the hub bolt holes on the spindle. These holes were crusted so I had to dremel them out.Take three parts, hub, spindle and dust shield assembly and assemble them. Make sure you have the hub bolt holes aligned properly so you can reinsert the bolts properly. Even after dremmeling out the hole for the dust shield, the mount that goes into the hole did not want to go so I took a note from a friend and used a old socket as a press and hammered down the spindle onto the mounting point. Once you get it started you may want to insert the hub bolts to keep it lined up. Once you get the spindle completely knocked down, use a 27mm socket for the nut that secures the ebrake assembly to the spindle.Torque the hub bolts to 57-72ft. lbs.The spindles are complete and need to be put back on the car.Lay the ebrake lines across the subframe.Place the spindle back on the ball joint, torque the nut to 52-64ft. lbs and reinstall a new cotter pin.Put the axle back into the spindle.I decide to replace my old suspension arm bolts...and strut to spindle spacers/bolts.Reinstall your suspension arms. Torque the traction links, rear upper control arms and toe rods to 57-72ft. lbs.Torque the strut to spindle nut to 72-87ft. lbs.Put the axle spacer back then the axle nut.You won't be able to tighten the axle nut until you secure the Z32 ebrake lines.
Modified by positronone at 7:12 PM 10/6/2007
Modified by positronone at 12:51 AM 12/19/2007