'92 vert. Rear windows are not going down with top as usual. Driver's side window can still be put down using the button in the middle of the console, but the passenger side window won't go down at all. It sounds like the motor is running and puts a drag on the engine, but window doesn't move. I've tried spraying everything inside with lub, but no results so far.
(I couldn't find anything on this problem using the search. Somebody let me know if there's archived info somewhere?)
Convertible rear quarter window won't go down
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BOOMSHAKALAKA
- Posts: 5609
- Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2006 5:18 am
It sounds like your window came off the tracks...a common problem.
Take look through these:zerothread?id=158929http://forums.nicoc ... ead/189729
Take look through these:zerothread?id=158929http://forums.nicoc ... ead/189729
Re: (topless94)
Thanks for the quick response. I will definitely give this a try!
Re: (topless94)
Okay, so I got the window out (that was a bit of a struggle, but it's out - not looking forward to putting it back in, though - lol) and the middle guide IS cracked (which I will fix while it's out), but that's not the problem. Seems to be a wiring issue.
Luckily I have 2 cars and can use the 2nd vehicle for testing. Guide arm will go up, but not down on daily driver (car #1). Guide arm works fine both ways on 2nd car. Center console switches from both cars work fine on #2. So I think it's either in the connector on the window end of car #1 or somewhere in between in the wiring. Are there any relays or common breakage points or anything I should be checking before I cut the connector off and re-wire another end on it?
Luckily I have 2 cars and can use the 2nd vehicle for testing. Guide arm will go up, but not down on daily driver (car #1). Guide arm works fine both ways on 2nd car. Center console switches from both cars work fine on #2. So I think it's either in the connector on the window end of car #1 or somewhere in between in the wiring. Are there any relays or common breakage points or anything I should be checking before I cut the connector off and re-wire another end on it?
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driftjunke
- Posts: 325
- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 4:34 pm
Re: (bgoodwill)
Figure it out yet? I have the same issue. The motor is good on mine. On the two wire system, I guess one wire see 12 volt, to go up, and the other wire 12 volts to go down. Haven't been ablr to check it out yet.
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Re: (driftjunke)
No, not yet. I want to take a closer look under the dash to see if I can see any exposed wires or something that might be causing it to short out. Probably will try to get to that on Monday.
I'm thinking it is possibly the connector at the motor, but I don't really want to cut it to replace it unless somebody with more electronic knowledge than me tells me that's the thing to do. But I might just go for it if I don't get any other response in the next few days. Looks pretty stupid to be driving around with the top down and the back windows up
I'll keep you posted. Please do the same.
I'm thinking it is possibly the connector at the motor, but I don't really want to cut it to replace it unless somebody with more electronic knowledge than me tells me that's the thing to do. But I might just go for it if I don't get any other response in the next few days. Looks pretty stupid to be driving around with the top down and the back windows up
I'll keep you posted. Please do the same.
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ishkabibble
- Posts: 4667
- Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 5:08 pm
- Car: 1992 Nissan NX2000 hardtop
1993 Nissan NX2000 t-top
1997 Infiniti I30t
Re: (bgoodwill)
Don't go cutting wiring; there is a connector on the motor wiring that you can disconnect.
There is probably an amplifier connected to the motor, too, and that may be malfunctioning.
If a window isn't moving, I think this is the typical test order for the main windows in the car (not sure if the quarter windows would be different for some reason):
-Disconnect motor wiring and see if it's getting power when switch is pressed in either direction-Test motor by applying 12V from the battery. Reverse wiring and window should go other way.-Test power window amp-Test switch
Then you should have some sort of idea where the problem is occurring.
There is probably an amplifier connected to the motor, too, and that may be malfunctioning.
If a window isn't moving, I think this is the typical test order for the main windows in the car (not sure if the quarter windows would be different for some reason):
-Disconnect motor wiring and see if it's getting power when switch is pressed in either direction-Test motor by applying 12V from the battery. Reverse wiring and window should go other way.-Test power window amp-Test switch
Then you should have some sort of idea where the problem is occurring.
Re: (ishkabibble)
Yeah, I know there's a connector at the motor, but I'm wondering if it's the problem. Here's what I 've got so far. I have 2 cars, so I have a test site, so to speak.
The console switch is good, because it works fine in the 2nd car, whereas putting the good switch from car #2 into car #1 results in the original problem - the window won't go downat all.
The window motor is good, because it also works fine, both up and down, attached to the 2nd car. (I did not try motor from car #2 attached to wiring in car#1 because I didn't want to take it out and didn't see the need to do that extra work.)
The other thing I did was I tried running wiring from the console switch directly to the right side motor. It would go down for about 3 seconds, then stop. You could hear a distinct click when it stopped. 6 seconds later there would be another click and then you could run the window down another 3 seconds before it repeated the whole thing. ???????? Once it's down you can run it back up with no interruptions.
I didn't see anything else attached to the wiring for the quarter windows. If there's an amp, where would it be?
The console switch is good, because it works fine in the 2nd car, whereas putting the good switch from car #2 into car #1 results in the original problem - the window won't go downat all.
The window motor is good, because it also works fine, both up and down, attached to the 2nd car. (I did not try motor from car #2 attached to wiring in car#1 because I didn't want to take it out and didn't see the need to do that extra work.)
The other thing I did was I tried running wiring from the console switch directly to the right side motor. It would go down for about 3 seconds, then stop. You could hear a distinct click when it stopped. 6 seconds later there would be another click and then you could run the window down another 3 seconds before it repeated the whole thing. ???????? Once it's down you can run it back up with no interruptions.
I didn't see anything else attached to the wiring for the quarter windows. If there's an amp, where would it be?
Re: (driftjunke)
Made some progress today. Took the console off completely and discovered that there is another, identical connection directly under the initial rear window switch connector. By plugging the switch into this 2nd connector, I now have an operational quarter window! The rear windows will not work in conjunction with the top, but everything does work independently. And so far I have no found anything else that has been altered or doesn't work as a result of this by-pass operation.
Tried to trace the wiring from the connector I by-passed to see if I could find a sub-harness or some relay that I missed in my first attempts, but got nowhere with that yet. Still hoping somebody with more wiring experience will give me some clue.....................
Let me know if this works for you.
Tried to trace the wiring from the connector I by-passed to see if I could find a sub-harness or some relay that I missed in my first attempts, but got nowhere with that yet. Still hoping somebody with more wiring experience will give me some clue.....................
Let me know if this works for you.