I was wondering when changing the rear speakers with aftermarket ones did you all wire the new speakers directly to the head unit or manage to use the factory amp?

Solini wrote:I was wondering when changing the rear speakers with aftermarket ones did you all wire the new speakers directly to the head unit or manage to use the factory amp?

When U say rear speakers are U talking about the ones on the rear deck that runs as 6.5" sub? or full range speakers on the rear doors?

Woops, guess I should've said the speakers in the rear deck

Solini wrote:Woops, guess I should've said the speakers in the rear deck

Rear deck speakers were design to play bass. It's normal for them to pop and crack when the volume is up. I usually fade a little to the front and it helps. Even if you buy another 6.5" driver it will do the same. I would pull them out and use it as a port from the trunk and add a 10"sub.

Hey that's not a bad idea, considering there's no real way for bass to enter the cabin from the trunk. Well I'll (more like my mechanic) will be installing my headunit, backup camera and sub this Saturday so I'll let you know how it comes out, thanks again

audiovisiony33 wrote:
Rear deck speakers were design to play bass. It's normal for them to pop and crack when the volume is up. I usually fade a little to the front and it helps. Even if you buy another 6.5" driver it will do the same. I would pull them out and use it as a port from the trunk and add a 10"sub.

that's exactly what i need to do. i already have a 12" sub/amp/box in the trunk & don't need the rear-fill bass from those speakers. have you or other members done this mod or have good DIY info on how i can pull it off? here's a pic of what i'm already running (sub is Fosgate Power HX2). thanks in advance

I'd love to try some of those 6.5" ED subwoofers IB in place of the stock 6.5" subs.

better yet, remove the 6.5" and attach a sealed 10" underneath the rear deck.

gjh20 wrote:
that's exactly what i need to do. i already have a 12" sub/amp/box in the trunk & don't need the rear-fill bass from those speakers. have you or other members done this mod or have good DIY info on how i can pull it off? here's a pic of what i'm already running (sub is Fosgate Power HX2). thanks in advance

You do understand all we're talking about is removing the two rear deck speakers and leaving the holes empty so the bass from your sub (Rockford in your case) can easily enter the cabin. If so removing them are easy, go to rear seats pull out tab at the bottom of the seatscso the bench can be pulled out, than get a phillips screwdriver and remove a series of about ten screws. Be sure to pop out the flap where the rear armrest lies, there's two screws behind them also. Remove outer trim by headliner on both sides, push up on the back of the seat and remove. After that you'll have to pop the cover for the third break light, where you'll have to unscrew 2 10mm screws than remove light fixture. After all is out lift up on the carpet cover and you'll see the speakers. This would be a good time to go to your trunk and remove the carpet liner. Easy to do there's 4-5 push in tabs at the top, then you pop out/ screw out depending on what they used in your trunk and the lining comes down, disconnect the wires coming from your factory Bose amp (while in trunk amp is located on the left side) Re enter backseat and unscrew remainding screws and allow the speaker to gently fall into the trunk (more like on top of your gas tank ) Also you might want to consider removing this metal plate located on the left side of your right rear speaker. After changing my rear deck speakers I now have this plate vibrating, and figure with a sub you might have it also. Either stick something in between so it can't rattle or take it out completly. I hope this helped any questions email me [email protected]

i have a sneaking suspicion that you know what you are talking about! gracias!!!

Solini wrote:Hey that's not a bad idea, considering there's no real way for bass to enter the cabin from the trunk. Well I'll (more like my mechanic) will be installing my headunit, backup camera and sub this Saturday so I'll let you know how it comes out, thanks again

Is it going to look like this?

http://www.jtuned.com/media/ph...ownew=

http://www.jtuned.com/media/ph...ownew=
Modified by audiovisiony33 at 8:12 PM 5/9/2007

took your advice & did the mod earlier today. sound is WAAAAAAY better! thanks again. bass enters the cabin much less muffled & with more power & volume. then it all fits perfectly back together for a stock appearance. in case anyone coming behind me wants to see the pics of how ur Q looks during the process, i took these. i can't lie, while i had the rear seat out i began to think...i wonder how this car would look with 4 Recaro buckets in it...hmmmmmmmmm

& as for you audiovisiony33...that is just mean & viscious torment to show those super sic pics while i'm in the middle of this B.O.B. (ballin onna budget) mod! that car & system are sick.

audiovisiony33 wrote:
Is it going to look like this?

http://www.jtuned.com/media/ph...ownew=

http://www.jtuned.com/media/ph...ownew=

Modified by audiovisiony33 at 8:12 PM 5/9/2007

The links didn't work for me, it asked for a username and password

gjh20 I'm glad it worked out for you, I take it my description was easy to follow. I can't wait til this Saturday to install mine

I'm gonna do a shallow 10" in small slim sealed box and slide it right under neath the rear deck speaker holes, also gonna isolate the box so that the sound only shoots straight up into the speaker hole.

is there a hole in the firewall to run the power-ground ? I don't wanna cut up any metal.

just a plug for a eD since I like them...

http://www.edesignaudio.com/ed...d=106

Slim 10" sub from Elemental Designs.

Qproject wrote:I'm gonna do a shallow 10" in small slim sealed box and slide it right under neath the rear deck speaker holes, also gonna isolate the box so that the sound only shoots straight up into the speaker hole.

is there a hole in the firewall to run the power-ground ? I don't wanna cut up any metal.

Before you put any subs on the rear deck you need to know this from the expert in high profile car audio. .....Yes me.

I've been working with high profile car audio for 15yrs.In order for you to mount the sub in the rear deck requires reinforcement. Rear deck sheet metals are not thick/strong enough so when the subs are moving the rear deck will move with the sub and this will creat cancellation in the bass wave.

Second you need to enclose the sub for the best dynamic range. Tight, clean & dynamic bass. Further the bass wave travel it will get louder and deeper like an echo. That's why bass always sound better when you have the sub facing to the rear of the bumper rather facing to the rear seat.

I personally don't recomend mounting the subs in the rear deck because of too much modifications is required to make it work .

As far as using thin subs, bass wave is pumped in to the air by the excursion of the sub and by using thin/low excursion sub can not play good at low bass range from 45Hz to 5Hz.. From here choice is yours

ok robert, you talked me out of it.

too much trouble.

audiovisiony33 wrote:
Before you put any subs on the rear deck you need to know this from the expert in high profile car audio. .....Yes me.

I've been working with high profile car audio for 15yrs.In order for you to mount the sub in the rear deck requires reinforcement. Rear deck sheet metals are not thick/strong enough so when the subs are moving the rear deck will move with the sub and this will creat cancellation in the bass wave.

Second you need to enclose the sub for the best dynamic range. Tight, clean & dynamic bass. Further the bass wave travel it will get louder and deeper like an echo. That's why bass always sound better when you have the sub facing to the rear of the bumper rather facing to the rear seat.

I personally don't recomend mounting the subs in the rear deck because of too much modifications is required to make it work .

As far as using thin subs, bass wave is pumped in to the air by the excursion of the sub and by using thin/low excursion sub can not play good at low bass range from 45Hz to 5Hz.. From here choice is yours

Audiovision is right... a low excursion 10 will give you aproximate output of a 8" woofer.

on another note though, regarding attaching a sealed box to the rear deck... that is no worse than the stock units being set up infinite baffle. just that the stock speakers don't move enough air to make it an issue. you put acouple of those eD 6.5" subs on that rear deck and you'll have to do some serious deadening of the rear deck.

I actually have 2 of those EU-700's in my garage. I should throw them in my Y33 and see what they do.. only problem, my stock rear deck speakers don't work so I'd need to fix that first

Help! the other day i removed the rear speakers & metal trim plates from the rear deck. Everything sounded so good that i decided to turn my gain up on my amp to approx 50% (up from about 30%) to get even more bass. all was well until last nite. i was driving and noticed that my bass response/output was drastically less that it had been earlier in the day. it sounded as though i had turned the bass down to approx 10-20% on my HU. (i usually have it set at 50%) i played with the switches on the HU to no avail. i looked in my trunk at the amp/sub connections, nothing loose or disconnected. the only odd thing i noticed was that my speaker wire was unusally warm. i'm not sure what has happened & am lookin for any advice on how to trace the problem. & btw, if the answer is that i have a blown sub or amp, PLEASE let me down gently... thanks

gjh20 wrote:Help! the other day i removed the rear speakers & metal trim plates from the rear deck. Everything sounded so good that i decided to turn my gain up on my amp to approx 50% (up from about 30%) to get even more bass. all was well until last nite. i was driving and noticed that my bass response/output was drastically less that it had been earlier in the day. it sounded as though i had turned the bass down to approx 10-20% on my HU. (i usually have it set at 50%) i played with the switches on the HU to no avail. i looked in my trunk at the amp/sub connections, nothing loose or disconnected. the only odd thing i noticed was that my speaker wire was unusally warm. i'm not sure what has happened & am lookin for any advice on how to trace the problem. & btw, if the answer is that i have a blown sub or amp, PLEASE let me down gently... thanks

update...my sub is not playing at all. the amp & cap are both getting power (according to power meters on both). i fear that the sub may have checked out on me, although it is rated at 1000 watts rms/2000 watts max & my Audiobahn A1200dt is rated at 1200 watts.

so this happened after you turned your gains up ?

95 percent sure it is your amp. It is going into protect.

Is your amp 2 ohm mono stable ? What is your subwoofer's final impedance ?

use another subwoofer and hook it up to make sure it is NOT the subwoofer. If it is still not working then you know it's your amp.

gjh20 wrote:
update...my sub is not playing at all. the amp & cap are both getting power (according to power meters on both). i fear that the sub may have checked out on me, although it is rated at 1000 watts rms/2000 watts max & my Audiobahn A1200dt is rated at 1200 watts.

Qproject wrote:so this happened after you turned your gains up ?

95 percent sure it is your amp. It is going into protect.

Is your amp 2 ohm mono stable ? What is your subwoofer's final impedance ?

use another subwoofer and hook it up to make sure it is NOT the subwoofer. If it is still not working then you know it's your amp.

amp is stable down to 1ohm. it has been in protect mode b4 & it gives me a red light & no voltage reading. also, i was still only pushing the amp at about 50% gain. final sub impedance? i'm not sure. its the dual voice coil model. if i had 2guess, its runnin at 1 or 2, to really pull power from the amp. i havent hooked up another sub, but i did remove sub from the box & physically move the cone through its excursion range. worst crackling sound & gritty feeling movement ever!!! again, i'm no expert, but i think my sub is DEAD damn so, u guys hav any 12" sub recommendations???

yeah, I bet you fried the voice coils. I'd recomend you don't get audiobahn. their stuff is craptastic. good for getty loud for cheap. thats it.

for recomendations, again I really like eD so I'd recomend a 13Kv.3 or 13Ov.3 depending on how much that amp puts out. Also what are the details of your box? volume? port? if ported whats the tunning of the port?

BTW... what sub was in there that blew?

Brokenbc wrote:yeah, I bet you fried the voice coils. I'd recomend you don't get audiobahn. their stuff is craptastic. good for getty loud for cheap. thats it.

for recomendations, again I really like eD so I'd recomend a 13Kv.3 or 13Ov.3 depending on how much that amp puts out. Also what are the details of your box? volume? port? if ported whats the tunning of the port?

BTW... what sub was in there that blew?

Sub was pretty good. i had it for about 2 or 3 years, Fosgate Power HX2 12". I dont know the box specs as i purchased it OTC when my Memphis box blew apart. it is ported though. i can take pics to try to give you a betta idea if it would help??? the amp i have (Audiobahn a12001DT) has been pretty bulletproof. i know Audiobahn has a bad rep, but i've been happy with this ONE product. Here's a link for the amp specs

http://www.sonicelectronix.com....html

i really don't want to spend an arm & a leg for a new sub, but i have an amp that when running 1ohm mono is rated at 1200watts rms/2400 watts peak. so i'm afraid if i put sum wack sub in there it'll get fried asap. this happens, just as i was debating which interior speakers & HU to switch to! does anyone have experience with Alpine Type R's? they seem to be reasonably priced with pretty good specs. btw, how much are the eD subs you mentioned?

eD's site... http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php

a quick look at the specs makes the TypeR and the 13Kv.2 look similar (at least the xmax ratings are within 1mm of eachother)

the 13Ov.2 however would destroy the output of eather.

of all thre off those I've only ever heard the 13Kv.2 and can attest to the fact that it sounds great. It was in a ported enclosure which I don't usually like since I like rock to sound good but it was the best sounding ported setup I've ever heard. It only takes about 300W to make the 13Kv.2 reach full excursion (depending on box obviously). I'd go with the 13Ov.2 considering how much power you have on tap. or maybe even something bigger. they have a 13Av.2 comming out very soon that should take your 1200W with no problem.

add to that their 5 year warranty and you've got a winner.

thats enough of my eD fanboy rant. good luck with whatever you go with though.