To Convert or To Restore

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silver2k2
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Car: 1994 Q45 Ivory Quartz/Tan

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This reply comes out of the " I got robbed" post. However it is lengthy and I believe it deserved its own thread

Let me start by saying that these are prices on parts that I have personally been quoted while struggling with this decision on my own Q45a. This assumes that you will do the work yourself so no labor costs are included. If I missed any parts or details then let me know and I can updated the word document this came from. If we make it good enough maybe we can turn it into an article or something

Restoration

Active Restoration

9 Texas Oil Recharged Accumulators $12004 new boots (23X4) $ 92

4 new bump stops (20X4) $ 80

Active fluid (11.25 X 8) for flush $ 90

Total Cost $1462

Estimated time 6 -12 hours

All the information about replacing the accumulators is covered on http://www.q45asuspension.com. Replacing the boots would require basically the same R&R as replacing the struts in order to get the old boots off and the new ones on

ProsActive SuspensionPreservation of a rare carLess actual man hours working on the car

ConsHigher likelihood of problems compared to standard suspensionNo aftermarket availability of Actuators (Keith and Lino are working in this) Higher cost to maintain

Conversions

Simple Conversion

Parts to buy newConversion kit from Joe (no springs) $762 Parts to buy usedUsed springs $100 Sell old parts -$100

Total Cost $762

Estimated time 8 - 10 hours

The simple conversion requires removing all of the Active components. Then looping the power steering pump.

Total Conversion with used power steering pump and springs

Parts to buy newConversion kit from Joe (no springs) $762Non Active Belt (PS) $ 19

Parts to buy usedUsed springs $100 Crank Pulley $ 55 Power Steering pump $100Bracket $ 25Power Steering Hoses $ 75Water Pump Pulley Somone please chime in with price

Sell old parts -$200

Total cost $936

You can add a new rebuild power steering pump for $100 dollars more, I am not sure how long these last. Power steering lines from Joe are $440 by so I hope that used ones will work any input this would great

A true full conversion would also include an ECU. Although I do not know the advantage to this as the “actsus” Light it reported to go out as soon as the Active computer is removed

You would also need to find a blank cover plate for the N>H switch I have not priced this yet

The process is the same as the simple conversion but also includes swapping out the power steering/active pump, pump bracket and hoses. The active uses a wider belt so the crank pulley must be replaced along with a different belt.

The point of removing the pump would be to reduce weight, reduce parasitic drag on the motor (costs 1mpg at cruise), sell the pump to a needy active member

Estimated time 8-16 hrs

ProsLess cost to maintainAbility to run lowering springsAbility to run 17s, 18’s and up without compromising the active tuningMore availability of replacement parts

ConsNo ActivePeople will not like you for converting

Modified by silver2k2 at 2:50 PM 4/24/2007

Modified by silver2k2 at 4:02 PM 4/24/2007
Modified by silver2k2 at 7:30 AM 4/25/2007


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louiegz
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If your keeping the Car for a while, I'd just do the restoration. If your going to spend a grand anyway, might as well. Not too many actives around and must be fun to drive an active.

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elwesso
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Thanks for the summary, VERY NICE...

Just to note, for the complete conversion you'll need a water pump pulley from a standard Q, as the water pump/PS pump use the same belt... In all reality, you could skip using new crank pulley and just put the skinnier belt on the wider pulley..

You may want to add in some fluid for the active keepers.... Surely youd want to have a couple cans on hand.

To do the COMPLETE conversion as you outline it would take forever...

There is also no need to change the ECU when doing the converison, it wont interfere with anything...

silver2k2
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Car: 1994 Q45 Ivory Quartz/Tan

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Nice catch Wes, I updated the write up. I cant find a price for the water pump pulley on the nissan parts website. It seems like it should be easy to come by at a junk yard or a parts car in the forums.

Does anyone know if used power steering lines would be acceptable


Modified by silver2k2 at 4:47 PM 4/24/2007

texasoil
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It depends on what you want to drive. The difference in $$ active vs convert is really tiny compared to all the other operating & ownership costs.

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lino
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When I installed the 9 recharged accumulators that Keith sent me, the car felt amazing. I loved it! The car felt like it had a pulse, when you turned it on. It would jump up and go! Going through corners was the most fun.

Unfortunately, my vertical G sensor failed immediately afterwards. I bought a new one from Joe and replaced it, and my car was back to normal and I was loving my car all over again.

The only problem I have now is that one of my actuators is leaking badly and that has spoiled the experience. Hopefully, I'll get this issue resolved soon. Keith has been helping me with this.

After experiencing the Active Q, I'm not sure how I'd feel about owning a non-Active. No disrespect to you non-Active guys, but I love the Active most about my Q.

3Q Jay
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if you go to the trouble of pulling the actuators (not necessary if you only need to change accumulators), in order to do the dust boots, then you might as well do the bump stops too. they are separate from the $23/ea. boots. another $20ish each if i recall.i bought the boots and bumpstops and then decided not to pull the actuators (old boots not cracked). sold them to jeremy (green q45a).also, to pull the front actuators, you need to get some solid bolts to pry-bar and unscrew the upper mount. the ones that hold the plumbing down are hollow core and you will mess them up.

4-8 hr is optomistic in my view. especailly if you pull the actuators.

i got first dibs on your active computer if you decide to convert.

sounds like lino needs your actuators.

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lino
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3Q Jay wrote:if you go to the trouble of pulling the actuators (not necessary if you only need to change accumulators), in order to do the dust boots, then you might as well do the bump stops too. they are separate from the $23/ea. boots. another $20ish each if i recall.i bought the boots and bumpstops and then decided not to pull the actuators (old boots not cracked). sold them to jeremy (green q45a).
Did Jeremy end up replacing them?

silver2k2
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Updated with your comments.

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elwesso
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once we get this more finalized, I will turn this into an article. Thanks a bunch jared!

silver2k2
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Thank for the postive feedback Wes.
Modified by silver2k2 at 12:39 PM 4/26/2007

3Q Jay
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lino wrote:
Did Jeremy end up replacing them?
lino, to be clear-i sold him the boots and bumps. not actuators. Keith is hooking you up, right?

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lino
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3Q Jay wrote:
lino, to be clear-i sold him the boots and bumps. not actuators. Keith is hooking you up, right?
That's what I was wondering...if he replaced the boots and bumps? I'm curious what the condition of the bumps were?

Yes, Keith is sending me an actuator seal today as a matter fo fact. He already sent one and unfortunately it was lost in the mail, so the one he's sending today will be sent witha tracking number.

silver2k2
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Actuator seals were sourced? Where from? How much? This is good info for the article

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lino
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Keith took apart an actuator and removed the seal for me. That's where the seal came from. I'm going to try to source the seals. So far I've made contact with many people and I'm waiting and hoping for a positive outcome.

silver2k2
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I was studying the FSM, and It looked like one solution would be to simply swap in an std pump, and reuse the active pulley. Has anyone done this?


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