GTi-R T28 install, pics and thoughts.

[The_Chosen_One]

So saturday I finally installed my brand new GTi-R T28. I went with the GTi-R T28 for several reasons. I wanted to try something new, I wanted a turbo that can be rebuilt, bigger turbine for power to redline, and because I thought my GT28R was blown . The install was fairly straight forward the only major part was just clocking the compressor housing and modifying the wastegate bracket. I didn't clock the housing using the Snap ring way, I just unbolted the 6 bolts holding the housing and turned it to the proper orientation. As for the Wastegate bracket the pics should give a better idea of what to do.

Here are pics of how it normaly comes.











Here are pics after clocking and modifing the wastegate. I modified the bracket by cutting it and welding some steel to it, I did Mig welding on it.











Now the important part, how does it compare to the GT28R. Either way you cant go wrong, but truthfully the GTi-R is the better choice. If I had to do it all again the GTi-R hands down would be it. Aparently most people said the lag would be noticeable, nope sorry not even. It is laggier than the GT28R but only by 100rpms so its practically neglible. It does hit harder than the GT28R, but thats expected, the GT28R is ball bearing so the transition is smoother and you dont really notice that kick. You can also feel the car just keep pulling to redline as oppose to the GT28R where it loses steam up top. To give an idea of the LAG compared between the two.

GT28R Stock Manifold: 2psi by 2200rpms, Full Boost by 2700rpms. (7 psi)

GT28R SSAC Manifold: 2psi by 2600rpms, Full Boost by 3100rpms. (7psi)

GTi-R T28 Stock Manifold: 2psi by 2300rpms, Full Boost by 2900rpms (8psi)

GT28R 31lb/min Flow, 60 A/R Comp, 64 A/R ExhaustGTi-R 33lb/min Flow, 60 A/R Comp, 86 A/R Exhaust

So in all I'm extremly happy with the GTi-R turbo, ball bearing spool up speed, bigger exhaust for higher top end power, rebuildability.

Some specs on my setup: Stock Motor, stock manifold, 370cc injectors (upgrading to RC 550cc Top Feed High Impedance) , stock fuel pump, Custom FMIC and piping, and MAP-based standalone, 3" exhaust, 3" SR downpipe, SR Greddy Turbo Elbow.

[dvd]

wait, you said you wanted a turbo that was rebuildable. Then near the end you said "ball bearing spool up speed" I thought ball bearings weren't rebuildable? I dont know. Other than that, good post

[The_Chosen_One]

wait, you said you wanted a turbo that was rebuildable. Then near the end you said "ball bearing spool up speed" I thought ball bearings weren't rebuildable? I dont know. Other than that, good post

What I meant was that the turbo spooled up as fast as the ball bearing thus why I added the word speed. And yes Garrett GT ball bearing turbos cant be rebuilt, however Turbonetics offers rebuildable ball bearing turbos.

[tyrannix]

question: do/did you have your butterflies correctly working for both tests?

and thanks for the writeup, i neglected to take pics when i did the same thing to mine (your bracket looks really good - mine looks welded, I cut a triangle out, then welded in a 1 inch wide piece of flat stock, then semi polished it with a metal polishing wheel (shoddy job, just enough to clean it up a bit) - but yours looks nice, did you grind it down and paint or what?

I did the unbolt-to-clock- method too, had to do both the compressor and turbine to get the center housing aligned so teh oil drain was in the right sport, but i never messed with snap rings either

is this a link in the sticky yet?



CJ

[DjLiquid]

im looking forward to my setup. Im surprised you didnt have to swap the injectors.

[The_Chosen_One]

question: do/did you have your butterflies correctly working for both tests?

For all the tests I didn't have them working correctly, I just had them connected to the manifold. When I order the parts than I will hook it up, and program my standalone to control them.

Quote »and thanks for the writeup, i neglected to take pics when i did the same thing to mine (your bracket looks really good - mine looks welded, I cut a triangle out, then welded in a 1 inch wide piece of flat stock, then semi polished it with a metal polishing wheel (shoddy job, just enough to clean it up a bit) - but yours looks nice, did you grind it down and paint or what?[/quote]I was originally gonna do the way you mentioned, but I kinda messed up the pieces I cut out. Luckily my friend had a same gauge steel as the original bracket. If you look at the stock bracket, what I did was cut off the circle part with the screws and hole in the middle for the actuator. Than cut off the middle section. So pretty much what was left was the circle part, and the part that bolts on the back of the compressor. I had to make a whole new middle piece. This way made it easier for me to mock up and weld. I used a Die Grinder to smooth out the welds making sure that their was enough penetration and enough material to make sure it aint going anywhere. I welded the bracket in several location front and back. After it was done I used some Acetone to clean the bracket, and than I used some Krylon Black BBQ spray paint. I did 4 coats each side, with 2 coats of Duplicolor High Temp Ceramic Clear. Overall it came out REAL nice, and definatly sturdy. The 2 scuff marks was because I didn't let it cure overnight.

Quote »I did the unbolt-to-clock- method too, had to do both the compressor and turbine to get the center housing aligned so teh oil drain was in the right sport, but i never messed with snap rings either[/quote]After hearing all the stories of how much of a pain it was to use the snap ring, I figure why not just take off the bolts, certainly enough it was easy as pie, plus I had to remove them. 1 for the wastegate bracket, another just to hold the compressor and the other was this weird bracket, you can see it in the pics it sticks out, I had to grind that down as well as it was interfering with pretty much everything. I also had to unbolt the turbine housing as well, but just a little bit, enough to take pressure off the housing and plates and it spun freely. I'm pretty sure the fact that the turbo was Brand New also helped.

Quote »is this a link in the sticky yet?



CJ[/quote]Dont know keep hassling LOL.

[quote=""djliquid""]im looking forward to my setup. Im surprised you didnt have to swap the injectors.[/quote]Theirs no need to until I raise the boost. I'm only running 8psi and the turbo is almost identical to the S15 T28.

[dvd]

Ah, makes me want one. How much did you pay for it?

[The_Chosen_One]

I paid $799.00 shipped for it from http://www.Cheapturbos.com Was the only place I could find that sells it. They also sell the same turbo with a .64 A/R turbine, but after using the GTi-R why bother

[dvd]

well if i need to upgrade, i was sorta leaning towards a t28 since a gt2510 spools up really fast. Especially on my 510 since the chargepipes are smaller then when i had it on my 240.

[slo-3dr]

so how much pwoer should that turbo make?, and on a side note, isnt that turbo only good to 15 psi, where a s15 turbo is good to 18 psi. Id be interested to see how the power levels compare on those 2 turbos, if there both on 15 lbs.
Modified by slo-3dr at 12:18 PM 3/30/2007

[c-rad]

so how much pwoer should that turbo make?, and on a side note, isnt that turbo only good to 15 psi, where a s15 turbo is good to 18 psi. Id be interested to see how the power levels compare on those 2 turbos, if there both on 15 lbs.

Modified by slo-3dr at 12:18 PM 3/30/2007

No, in fact the GTiR is better in the higher boost levels and rpms than the S15 T28 because of the larger A/R. Turbo should be good for close to 330hp. A general rule of them is that every lb/min of airflow equates to 10hp. 33 lb/min = ~330hp.