So while I was there, I took some of the intake parts. The abstract of what I did was take the "air horn" off of a 90-93 and dropped it right onto the stock intake tract on my 94. NO modification required, just take the other one off and put the new one on! thank you nissan for not changing it...

on the 94, you can see where the intake comes out at. This is on my old 94, its the only picture I have of a stock 94 intake, except on most Qs theres a trim piece there, however it is missing on this picture, but its almost better for the sake of illustration

Thumbnails are clickable to enlarge.

Look just inboard of the drivers side headlight, you can see where the airhorn is on a 94. normally there is a trim piece in front of it.

Here is a picture of the entire intake before the airbox removed from the car. the piece on the far left is the only part from the 90-93, the rest is as it is on the stock 94.

Intake assembled.

For some reason the previous owner thought it would be good to strip down the intake and leave a bunch of holes, so I sealed the holes up with tape so that it can maintain pressure.

Here is a couple shots of the final product installed.

Driving impressions...

Well, you cant expect a whole lot from something like this, however I definitely do think that it pulls a little bit harder, and it seems a lot more jumpy then it was before. When you put your hand in from of the air horn and rev the motor you can feel the air being sucked in, so it must be fairly leak free... Overall, this cost me about an hour (not all a loss because I had to attend to something else while I was in there) and parts cost me nothing, so im a happy guy... Plus, I used all OEM Q45 stuff!

Sucked in drives me nuts as it just directs newbees into a life long error and confusion as to how engines work.

Back to the manometer which will show actual positive pressure at the input to air filter] above anbient [14.7] at speed.

The back pressure created by the condenser and radiator is high enough to make the horn the preferred path until the back pressure is equalized.

We are speaking of less than 1/4 psi [7" W.C.]

http://www.vararam.com/ramairinaroadcar.html

He was told there were only three things he needed to know about how jet turbines worked - it sucks, it blows and it goes.

Everything that followed was how to maintain it.

Discover the power of the button!

j/k thats nice and stealth. youve got the center plastic removed for better airflow to the radiator correct.

so if you had the 94 you could just cut a well place hole in the plastic if you wanted to keep it looking stock.

thats got to add at least 10 hp right tech!?

P.S. wash your freakin car!!!!

The point is no matter what you design [size/shape] as a scoop or what speed you measure even 150 mph WILL NOT CREATE even 0.5 measley PSI of boost.

50 mph creates 0.044 psi
100 mph creates 0.176 psi or about 4.87" H20
200 mph creates 0.704 psi
Above assumes 100% effcient which is impossible.

Not understanding basic physics makes you an easy prey to confusing aftermarket expenditures.

The term RAM AIR itself is confusing.

I love for people to experiment because it teaches basic physics.

Lest one paint me as using "ricer math", I've built a few hot rods in my day, and my butt-dyno is pretty sensitive (has to be when you're tuning a Q-jet on a big-block or a 400-hp boosted 4-cylinder).

I think it has more to do with eliminating restrictions already present than any "ram air" effect.

Regardless, it's functional, even if to a small degree.

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definitely seems like it to me...

All one can do is use a manometer to MEASURE the decrease in restriction if any.

If you bother to measure the restriction from atmosphere to the other side of oem air box [tap a port on top of air box lid*] ~~ 7.0"
H2O.............decreasing to 5.2-5.5" at 80 mph.................WOT unmeasureable at cruise.

*I installed a port with a rubber cap so that all I have to do is roll out some vacuum hose and attach a manometer and route thu a cracked window [rear of hood seal with not deform it] and drive and view.

A very interesting exercise to see the restrictions under various conditions.

Sucking all the cool interior air in 100F ambient can give you a 3% boost [wear ear plugs] and lower a rear window slightly prior........Where to cut the 4" duct thru firewall and a fast acting flipper valve?

The KS system won't engage with cooler air so probably 5-10-15% more torque.

The leftside cast plug on plenum is an excellant place to insert a thermister probe to measure actual plenum air temp.

Dennis, you're a strange bird, brotha.

I love it.

It might limit the WOT and save gasoline.

Better yet blow the Nitrous in from the trunk and breath a little as it passes by towards the engine.............don't use smelly Sulfur added industrial Nitrous.

See something for everyone.