HOW TO: S13 Alumnium "GTO" steering column bushing install

[Bumnah]

Alright I decided to install my generic aluminum “GTO” steering column bushing. Figured I may as well do a write up.

Searching around the web I found an old post detailing the install. It helped me out, but I personally think it is incorrect. The information I found on the web said I should remove the whole column. I don’t think it is necessary. If you were to disconnect the column from the rack, moved it aside you could undo 2 nuts and separate the lower shaft. Replace your bushing and reinstall. I don’t have a motor in my engine bay so perhaps I have more clearance to do it without pulling the column. My install will detail what I did to install the bushing. Again, you may not have to remove the column to install the bushing (you’ll see what I mean). If you do it without pulling the column post in here let us know if it’s possible or not.

Alright tools needed:

Ratchet (air seriously makes it much better)12 mm deep socket shallow won’t hurt either10 mm deep socket shallow won’t hurt eitherPhilips head screw driverFlat head screw driver (not needed but helpful)PB Blaster for the girly men out there (myself included).

First things first: Remove Negative battery connection. Next I locked my steering column in place.

Start: spray some PB blaster on the knuckle where the column meets the rack. I personally removed both bolts. 12mm bolts, you may need a breaker bar to break them loose. You don’t need to remove both, but I did incase one would separate more easily than the other. I took some white out and put a mark showing where the knuckle meets the rack. I then took a flat head screw driver and a hammer to hammer it up to loosen up the connection. It’s been on there for 14 years. I wouldn’t worry about getting it off completely just hammer it up to break it free. If you can’t get these bolts loose it’s pointless to go on.

In the cabin you have to remove the lower dash cover and the cover behind the steering wheel

To remove the lower dash cover, remove several Philips head screws: There are 3 to the left of the cover as well as the 2 pictured. There are 2 more near the bottom on either side (sorry didn’t take pictures of that side). There 7 screws for the lower dash. I removed the kick panel on the left to make it easier for myself.

The hood latch is connected to the lower cover as well. There are two bolts holding that. You can easily wiggle it free once the bolts out. The guy who owned it before me took the lower panel off and didn’t have enough brain power to figure out how to put it back together. So I had like 2 bolts total. Hood latch was just chillin’. Here is a picture showing what it looks like behind the panel.

Now that you have the lower dash cover off, head north for the covers around the steering wheel. 6 screws in total hold that together. The pictures should show where all 6 are located (I got ‘em all!). Once the screws are out, squeeze from the sides of the covers to help separate the top and bottom halves. Don’t rush it and break the tabs, like the previously owner of my car did.

Now you can tackle the actual removal of the column.

Break loose the following 3 nuts (10 mm I think*)

Next break loose these two nuts (12 mm I think*)

Last but not least; 2 bolts more holding the column on. I took a marker and circled where the bolts were located originally. Since the collar they go through is slotted, I figure it’s some sort of adjustment (anyone know?) To be sure I circled it so I could put it back exactly as before. Break loose the following 2 bolts (12 mm too I believe).

Okay onto the harnesses, 6 in total. All of them are unique, pretty easy to figure out which one goes where.

Harness # 01:

Harness # 02

Harness # 03

Harness # 04

Harness # 05

Harness # 06

I then went back to the engine bay where the column meets the rack and hammered the knuckle up and got a good bit of movement. Doing this ensured it would come loose when I tugged on the column to separate it from the rack.

Back in the cabin:

Remove the 3 bolts by the firewall (image: 7845.jpg).

Now get a good hold of the column.

Remove the 2 BOLTS (images: 7855.jpg & 7857.jpg) I’d start holding the steering wheel now.

Remove the last 2 nuts in the middle. (images: 7846.jpg & 7847.jpg).

The reason I said to do the 2 nuts in the middle last is because my column gave me a little trouble getting free from the studs right there. Make sure you get the column out nicely without damaging the threads on those studs. Once you clear those studs. It should come easily.

End result:

The rest of the stuff I didn’t take pictures of because A.) I got lazy. B.) I forgot. C.) It’s pretty simple.

Now: look at the piece that is normally by the firewall. And you’ll see 2 nuts holding the rubber bushing of doom in place. Remove those 2 nuts (12mm). Once you remove those nuts you can separate the two halves of the steering shaft.

Look over the bushing note where the plastic rings are, and how the metal plates are sitting and where. On the opposite side of the bushing you’ll see 2 more nuts. Remove those nuts. Once those nuts are loose the bushing can be replaced.

Next transfer the metal sleeves from the rubber bushing to the metal “GTO” bushing. Mine didn’t fit and kept sliding out you just need to hold them there until you bolt it all back together. Transfer the plastic pieces as well. Next put it back together like before. The metal plates should sit between the plastic collars and line up with the holes for the other 2 studs to go through.

If you looked over the bushing before you separated everything, it’s easy to put back together. Even if you didn’t pay attention you can figure out in a few minutes. I don’t know the torque specs I just used my air ratchet, which is around 20 ft lbs.

I didn’t put it back together yet because I’m swapping my steering rack out for a Hicas front steering rack for a better ratio. It’s easy to put back together. Just mind the studs in the middle of the column and not to damage them. Line it back up and bolt it up. Plug in all the harnesses, and put on the plastic trim.

What it should look like:



Go for a drive and enjoy the non sloppy steering feel. It may need an alignment, but I doubt it. My column didn’t turn at all during the whole install.

All pictures can be found here:http://www.bumnah.com/gto

Not responsible if you F this up and render your car useless. 

[rico05]

Damn. I did not realize that you have to pull the steering shaft to do that. I really want to do this, but that is a PITA. Sigh.

Great write up!!!!!!!!!!

[Bumnah]

did you even read the post? i pulled it, but you may get away with just removing the bottom portion of the steering shaft. wanna try it and let us know?

[daconkiftador]

nice write-up.. kinda ironic but i just installed mine tonight too before reading this, lol.

[RB20DETodd]

I didnt have to remove the colum, but did have to lower the engine x member down a inch or so.

[Bumnah]

dacon: did you remove the column?

did you move the front frame with the motor still in the car RB20?

[dickie]

k, im sorting this out for an article. anyone that wants to add pics or info, contact me

bumnah, are you on the waiting list for a custom title?

[RB20DETodd]

k, im sorting this out for an article. anyone that wants to add pics or info, contact me

bumnah, are you on the waiting list for a custom title?

what i went by

http://www.driftworks.com/inde...Id=15

[Bumnah]

you get custom titles for articles? and there's a waiting list? i guess email.

yeah, it seemed dumb to have to remove the column to get to that bushing. oh well.

[Bumnah]

here are some videos for reference.

Hope my videos are useful.

Enjoy.

Old video with oem rubber bushing:Rubber bushings

New Videos with the aluminum bushing:New bushing Vid 01New bushing Vid 02

[underground57]

I did not have to remove the column or lower the cross member (though dropping the cross member might have made it easier). I used a socket wrench with extension to remove the two nuts at the firewall. I then loosened the two bolts on the steering rack link and played with the middle section until it came out. [A warning here though, the link at the rack is notched so that the middle column piece only goes in when the two are aligned correctly. The end that goes to the steering rack does not have this, so make sure your steering wheel and wheels are straight before you tighten it all up.]

Make sure to watch for spacers that may drop out as you remove it. I lost one and had to run to the hardware store for another nylon spacer. They didn't have an exact match so I got one that was close and took a dremel and file to it until it was the right size. (I also found the one I lost a week later, but there's no way that damn thing is coming apart again.)

After I got the middle section out, I used the socket wrench and a 13mm open wrench (to hold the bolt head) to remove the last two nuts holding the bushing in. A vise would have been useful here, but I didn't have one so I just muscled it.

After you get it apart and remove the old bushing, to put it back together, I found that the easiest way to get the bushing with spacers back on was to slide two of the metal spacers into the bushing. Then putting on the nylon spacers and sliding it onto the two bolts of the column section I pulled out as far as I could by hand before using a rubber mallet to tap the middle and around the sides to get the bushing all the way on. Make sure that the nylon spacer is still around the metal one and not jammed between it and the column section. After that's together, use a bit of Locktite on the bolts before tightening the nuts down.

Slide the last two metal and nylon spacers on and the opposing metal plate before sliding the column section back in place. When you get it aligned with the bolts at the firewall, you may need to use the rubber mallet to "encourage it" back into place. (I left the steering rack link loose so that I could adjust it at the end if I needed to.) Tighten the last two nuts into place.

I double checked that the steering wheel and wheels were straight before tightening those bolts down. Replace the underbody panel and go drive.

*If you plan on doing this, it may not be a bad idea to replace the rubber steering rack bushings with a pair of urethane ones while you're at it.

[le_ryan]

what ?! did you do the install at a rave party ??!!

but yeah, looks like it makes a hellova difference.

[mrzabala]

nice write-up. But imo, theres too many unnecessaries. Removing the lower portion will save you the trouble of removing the whole assembly. Also, you need not provide pictures of how you went by installing the bushing. Just the removed assembly and the finished. "You need the middle."

[Bumnah]

uh yeah