Greddy Oil Catch Can (56k, take a hike)

Post by **stldrifts13** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 2:51 pm

ok, first off, i did search the topic, so potential flamers.....you know where to stick.....moving on....I recently bought a used Greddy oil catch can for my RB20( no i don't see a lot of track time and no i don't run high boost. it was only 30 bucks, and it looks nice. gimme a break) anyway, i was wondering the correct way to mount it. i read in this thread: zerothread?id=155952

that you have to connect it to both valve covers, and then to the intake before the turbo, but i was wondering, can i just run it to one of the valve covers? why two? and also, the hose running down the side of the can is loose at the bottom(see pic). is that ok? One would think that it should be very tightly secured. anyway, i've included a few pics of the engine bay, if someone with CONSTRUCTIVE COMMENTS ONLY could tell me how to install this thing properly, i would greatly appreciate it. My engine bay is pretty cramped, so any tips on where to put it would be great too. thanks

Please help him so he'll stop working on his car and feed me....

Post by **74260zt** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 3:37 pm

First off, that clear plastic tube MUST be put back in that small fitting that it goes in or you will have oil dripping all over everything....

Here is a diagram of how you need to hook up your catch can, since your using a MAF set up and must be a sealed intake (no vacuum leaks).

Click

Post by **Darius** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:23 pm

That picture details a one way check valve on the line going to the intake pipe. I say screw that and just block that line off (remove tube and cap both ends with a rubber cap found at any auto parts store). That way, there is no way for oily air to make its way into your intake. Then, remove the line going from the PCV valve to the intake plenum and cap those openings too. Last, take the tube running from your valve cover to the intake plenum off, cap the barbed fitting on the plenum and run a new line from your passenger side valve cover to your catch can. Put a breather on the other side of the catch can for the exhaust air and call it a day.

The small tube is removed from that bottom plastic fitting because that is the easiest way to drain the can. Otherwise, he would have to unscrew the bottom fitting each time. Plug it back in like 74260zt suggested.

Post by **stldrifts13** » Sun Feb 11, 2007 5:24 am

Yeah, i know that the tube needs to be connected. my question was whether or not it was ok that it came out so easily, but i guess it would have to if your gonna drain the can. moving on....DARIUS, did you mean something like this?(sorry for the poor illustration!)

Post by **stldrifts13** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 1:42 pm

any other ideas?

Post by **RB20DETodd** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 2:34 pm

Go to the hardware store see what they have, and that is a OBX catch can i tink.

Post by **stldrifts13** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:31 pm

RB20DETodd wrote:Go to the hardware store see what they have, and that is a OBX catch can i tink.

I think not, The word ''GREDDY" is very clearly stamped on the top of the can. i know what i need. I'm just looking for the best way to run the hoses. i really don't wanna f*** anything up.

Post by **BoostFab** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:33 pm

74260zt wrote:First off, that clear plastic tube MUST be put back in that small fitting that it goes in or you will have oil dripping all over everything....

Here is a diagram of how you need to hook up your catch can, since your using a MAF set up and must be a sealed intake (no vacuum leaks).

Click

there's a flaw in this diagram. the oneway check valve is in the wrong place---it need to be on the plenum. you all have to understand that a pcv catch can setup is different on a boosted car. you must have a check valve between the intake plenum and the catch can, to prevent boost to presurize the catch can and the cank case.

plus, i don't like the idea of the gas vapor is sucked back into the intake track, it lowers the octane/degrade your fuel.

Post by **BoostFab** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:33 pm

stldrifts13 wrote:

you need to seal that vertical clear tube, if you don't want oil spill out of that port, do you?

Post by **stldrifts13** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 4:37 pm

i know that. you can pull that tube in and out of the fitting real easily. i was under the impression that it should be air-tight. or can i just plug it back into the fitting as is?

Post by **Darius** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:43 pm

You can just push it in. If you think your tube is toast, you can just bring it to Lowe's, match it up and buy 6" of it for $0.50. It will fit tight enough to be oil-tight.

Post by **stldrifts13** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:05 pm

cool, thanks!

Post by **krayton** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:25 am

a little off topic, but u might be able to help me

what size are those fittings on the greddy catch can?

the ones that actually go into the can. they look like something npt?

1/4 npt?

Greddy Oil Catch Can (56k, take a hike)

Greddy Oil Catch Can (56k, take a hike)

Re: Greddy Oil Catch Can (stldrifts13)

Re: Greddy Oil Catch Can (74260zt)

Re: Greddy Oil Catch Can (Darius)

Re: Greddy Oil Catch Can (stldrifts13)

Re: Greddy Oil Catch Can (stldrifts13)

Re: Greddy Oil Catch Can (RB20DETodd)

Re: Greddy Oil Catch Can (74260zt)

Re: Greddy Oil Catch Can (stldrifts13)

Re: Greddy Oil Catch Can (BoostsFed)

Re: Greddy Oil Catch Can (stldrifts13)

Re: Greddy Oil Catch Can (Darius)

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