Well, from the threads that searching was yielding, I was gathering that since there is a knock sensor built in, it will automatically adjust the timing to an extent to avoid knocking. The information I was getting was saying that premium gas was fine, but regular was out of the question. I couldn't find info on whether or not 91 was safe to run, though. If I end up knocking, I may just pull the whole engine back apart and put the regular pistons in.... or just sell the car.wa-chiss wrote:well with close to 11.?:1 you will probably have to use 93 octane and retard the timing a crapload to not knock.
Far be it from me to guess how the knock sensor works. I haven't stumbled on an explanation, but I haven't looked, either. I was just under the impression that it detected knock, and it changed something. What? I don't know at this time.IWannaS15 wrote:I dont think thats how the knock sensor works. I believe when the ECU detects knock, it alters the fuel and load maps or something,but I dont think it alters timing. i could be wrong on this, but if it were that easy, KA-T would have nothing to worry about.
High compression engines have more cylinder pressure (not as high as forced induction, but higher than a stock 9.5 motor). You should definitely use premium fuel.
I dont know how you tune (measure EGT??) a high compression motor, but dont just romp on it and see if it knocks. Youre a Honda guy, what do they do?
Are you sure that isn't the other way around? I thought they lowered the compression on later engines.IWannaS15 wrote:BTW, that quote posted by 240Drifter is from a guy named Asad. He usually knows what he's taking about and the values seems familiar.
Early 8.6:1 KA-E pistons into KA-DE gives 11.1:1Later 9.1:1 KA-E pistons into KA-DE gives 11.6:1
I want to do this, but I want to do it right. Could you throw a little bit more information about your personal experience our way?2BN_S13 wrote:You can get about 180WHP with proper supporting mods like intake, exhaust, injectors and computer. ~20HP gained at the crank directly from the pistons is all you can get using 93 octane, you will never be able to run anything lower again. PERIOD.
But you will need to run race gas to get it to perform well. It will burn a little oil when it gets warmed up and you need to SEARCH the rest, because there are some things you need to mix from the DOHC that will not work with the SOHC pistons and vice versa.
I know this has been covered three or four times before, and I have personally built one using help from TrunkMonkey. Its fun if you do it right.
I can not answer all your questions, but I just got finished installing the complete rotating assembly from a KA24E into a KA24DE. The connecting rods were the same length and width for both the E and the DE. I want to say the E rods may have been marginally thicker in the middle, but I was committed to using them anyway since I didn't have a complete good set of DE rods. The crankshaft from the E is slightly longer at the front, but this can be avoided by using the DE crank.Shift_Kouki wrote:
I want to do this, but I want to do it right. Could you throw a little bit more information about your personal experience our way?
What else other than a piston kit does one need from the KA24E?? Are the DE rods compatible? Do I have to be careful which year SOHC pistons I get? What cam durations are compatible with the new pistons? What are my duration and lift limits? Will the S13 248/240 duration cams work?
Can you recommend any one in the DC metro area who could re-tune the car after the new pistons are in?
What kind of ignition timing am I looking at for 93 octane? What timing can you get away with on race gas?
I would totally If you can help me out with these questions I have.
The knock sensor is a piezoelectric-type sensor. That means under a certain frequency (in this case, a vibration), the sensor will trigger the computer to slightly retard the timing accordingly to avoid knock.qat727 wrote:Far be it from me to guess how the knock sensor works. I haven't stumbled on an explanation, but I haven't looked, either. I was just under the impression that it detected knock, and it changed something. What? I don't know at this time.
cool... now I know.jdm_master_X wrote:The knock sensor is a piezoelectric-type sensor. That means under a certain frequency (in this case, a vibration), the sensor will trigger the computer to slightly retard the timing accordingly to avoid knock.
Good to know on the cam set-up clearing. Which year SOHC pistons are you using? 89 or 90?qat727 wrote:
I can not answer all your questions, but I just got finished installing the complete rotating assembly from a KA24E into a KA24DE. The connecting rods were the same length and width for both the E and the DE. I want to say the E rods may have been marginally thicker in the middle, but I was committed to using them anyway since I didn't have a complete good set of DE rods. The crankshaft from the E is slightly longer at the front, but this can be avoided by using the DE crank.
I am running the stock 240 intake/248 exhaust setup for the S13 and I have not encountered any clearance issues. From the information I could gather, running a 248 on the intake would put the intake valves too close to the pistons for comfort without fly cutting them. I did not try this to verify, however.
Not much from the E is able to be swapped over to the DE. The rotating assembly is about it.
I hope someone else can answer the rest of your questions. I'm still trying to get mine running properly.
i would love to see this alsoken240sx wrote:turning the tables around a little bit....I'm curious what kind of compression ratios the DOHC pistons would make in the SOHC...possibly a cheap, easy way to lower compression to run more boost from a turbo on a SOHC.....I want to experiment...hmmm, i've got an extra set of DOHC pistons laying around and my buddy wants to boost his pignose......
ahhh, i could probably get answers searching but its 4am and im tired