Anniversary Edition Suspension overhaul OEM

[paranoidjack]

Today I spent $1880 on all new suspension parts from joe at http://www.infinitipartsusa.com.

This included front and rear strut assembly (yes the adjustables for the AE), all related rubber components, inner and outer tie rods, radius arm bushings, sway bar links, and some other things also.

Doesn't hurt to get a can of BG and some cabin air filters also.

I just had every fluid in the car flushed (roughly $450) and filled with OEM fluids, except synthetic in the diff and motor oil.

I'm not posting this to get suggestions about aftermarket components I should have bought for my Q. I love her just the way she is, and my only goal is to restore her completely with all OEM components. I realize for comparable or less I could have lowered the car.

I will update this thread with pictures and walkthrough also. We don't have many Y33 walkthroughs with pics, but we will soon enough with all the news ones coming on. Here is a scanned image of the parts with the part #'s, and prices.





Modified by paranoidjack at 7:35 AM 2/15/2007

Modified by paranoidjack at 8:33 PM 5/17/2009
Modified by paranoidjack at 9:05 AM 9/2/2009

[CINNALOCKS]

Shouldn't you have included the upper links in this overhaul?[IMG][/IMG]

[maxnix]

Shouldn't you have included the upper links in this overhaul?[IMG][/IMG]

FGY33 has a MacPherson strut front suspension, thus no upper links.

Look forward to the rest of the post as it should be comprehensive for all FYG33 models.

[elwesso]

Excellent Jack. The Y33 is going to be really nice in its OEM form.. An article would be VERY appreciated.

[paranoidjack]

WELL. I decided to start today, and with the rear. So I pumped up my new 19 Gal. compressor and guns, and went at the rear. The top bolts on the rear shocks are SERIOUSLY irritating (moreso than any other car I've ever owned)....especially by the gas inlet piping on the passenger side. You'll want a flex 3/8" adapter. I did not have one and have very scratched up hands.

I unfortunately got no pics, as I was alone and it was FREEZING out. I will get pics of the front installation.

I was shocked to see that my old shocks had basically NO ability to push themselves out, even under zero load. Pretty scary.

The rear end feels nible like my prelude again. Very excited to see the difference once all the slop in the front is fixed tomorrow. I'll try and get some video instead of audio, easier and more helpful.

[maxnix]

Wow, what a guy. R&R in the snow and all.

[paranoidjack]

Wow, what a guy. R&R in the snow and all.

When the Q calls, you listen!

[Peterofdevon]

Great going!

There is nothing like the satisfaction of having a OEM mint or better than new Q-even if its not a G50 (laugh). How many miles are on your Q?

P.

[paranoidjack]

105, 000 soon to be 0, hehe.

hmm woke up, it's 18 degrees outside and I have a 101 fever. BUT....it's snowing tomorrow....so I don't have much choice.

We'll see how I feel after this cup of coffee.

[szh]

hmm woke up, it's 18 degrees outside and I have a 101 fever. BUT....it's snowing tomorrow....so I don't have much choice.

We'll see how I feel after this cup of coffee.

Uh, I'd strongly recommend staying inside. No need to hurt your body. If you have a temperature, then you have the flu ... probably, and going out in the cold could lead to pneumonia.

I love my cars too, but not that much!

Z

[paranoidjack]

Hey, it's only health. I'm alive.

Finally convinced myself to get out there after a few hours. I've decided to do the driver side, and record the passenger side so I know exactly what I'm doing and it goes faster.

Stabilizer arm nuts.....PITA PITA PITA!!! They have an allen insert in the stud end of the arms, to keep it steady while removing/installing the nut. May I recommend that you PB blast the hell out of the nuts, and find the correct allen to make a PERFECT fit before trying to remove the nuts. I was forced (as you may be anyway) to get my dremel and cut them off, which was messy and time consuming. Wear eye protection, you'll need it.

I still cant' get the ball joint apart. I had to remove the lower control arm and the shock assembly all in one go. I'm not sure exactly how to get them apart, these two are far more bound than any other ball joint I've separated (Q45tech???). I'll head to autozone in the morning to see if they have a ball joint tool that will work.

I have removed the radius arm to bring it to a shop to have the new bushings pressed in.

All in all, I can see why the dealer would charge well over $1500 in labor to do this. I'm scared to see the alignment when I'm done.

Also, my inner and outer tie rods have no play...they seem to be in perfect working order. I HAVE new ones, and with 100k on the chassis I'm wondering if I should just replace them anyway. Thoughts on this?

SO, need to get ball joint separated to reinstall lower control arm and replace shock assembly with new, need to get radius arm pressed back in, and then I can get this side back together.

HELP! Q45tech, figured you might know this....how do you remove the TCS/ABS sensor from the hub assembly? Does it have to be pressed in and out? I've read sections BR-38 of the shop manual, and I *think* it says that it has to be pressed in and out...can this be confirmed? This sensor is a royal PITA! I've already broken one, and it cost $113 to get a new one from Joe. Thanks much.


Modified by paranoidjack at 7:36 AM 2/15/2007

[paranoidjack]

For the record, I was unable to remove the sensors and had to purchase 2 new ones. That's $250 right there, and the first ones were fine, just not removable!

[willko1]

Hey, it's only health. I'm alive.

Finally convinced myself to get out there after a few hours. I've decided to do the driver side, and record the passenger side so I know exactly what I'm doing and it goes faster.

Stabilizer arm nuts.....PITA PITA PITA!!! They have an allen insert in the stud end of the arms, to keep it steady while removing/installing the nut. May I recommend that you PB blast the hell out of the nuts, and find the correct allen to make a PERFECT fit before trying to remove the nuts. I was forced (as you may be anyway) to get my dremel and cut them off, which was messy and time consuming. Wear eye protection, you'll need it.

I still cant' get the ball joint apart. I had to remove the lower control arm and the shock assembly all in one go. I'm not sure exactly how to get them apart, these two are far more bound than any other ball joint I've separated (Q45tech???). I'll head to autozone in the morning to see if they have a ball joint tool that will work.

I have removed the radius arm to bring it to a shop to have the new bushings pressed in.

All in all, I can see why the dealer would charge well over $1500 in labor to do this. I'm scared to see the alignment when I'm done.

Also, my inner and outer tie rods have no play...they seem to be in perfect working order. I HAVE new ones, and with 100k on the chassis I'm wondering if I should just replace them anyway. Thoughts on this?

SO, need to get ball joint separated to reinstall lower control arm and replace shock assembly with new, need to get radius arm pressed back in, and then I can get this side back together.

HELP! Q45tech, figured you might know this....how do you remove the TCS/ABS sensor from the hub assembly? Does it have to be pressed in and out? I've read sections BR-38 of the shop manual, and I *think* it says that it has to be pressed in and out...can this be confirmed? This sensor is a royal PITA! I've already broken one, and it cost $113 to get a new one from Joe. Thanks much.


Modified by paranoidjack at 7:36 AM 2/15/2007

Hey Jack Thanks for the info was wondering if you ever posted the video?

[paranoidjack]

Sorry bro - never recorded it. Was doing the job myself and couldn't get it done.

[Wiggler]

So I'm guessing the same procedure applies to a 99 touring edition?

[willko1]

Sorry bro - never recorded it. Was doing the job myself and couldn't get it done.

No problem, hard to video and work at the same time. Wanted your opinion on the grommets though both front and rear, I'm trying to get my beast back into shape; beside the tension bar grommets do you remember what items were shot. I am trying to replace bare minimum to get my rear camber and front camber sorted out.
Best Will K