Pics Of My Subframe Collar Install

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positron1
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I took some pictures of the subframe collars install that I did yesterday.Tools needed:JackstandsJack-to stabilize/lower and raise the differentialSocket wrench with extension for the forward subframe bushingsBreaker barPry barGlovesGot them in yesterday morning from JGYCustoms.With the exeption of the springs/struts this starts the beginning of my rear suspension changes. Gonna do a lot of cleaning back here, there's grime and grease buildup from the differential everywhere. Note the cheapy ebay lower control arm bar. I got the spherical bearing bar to replace it with. You can see the subframe bushing also.Here's the subframe bushing on the forward section of the subframe.15mm socket takes the bottom collar off. I needed a breaker bar to break these off also.Breaker bar.This shows where I used the jack to hold up the differential. You'll probably need to lower the jack slightly to slide the top collars in. I also had to use a prybar to wedge the passenger side down slightly.Prybar.Slide the top collar in.Done on the rear subframe collars.Done on the forward subframe collars.Heres's the bottom collars for the subframe spacers.

Torque the collar nuts to 80 ft. lbs and the bracket bolts to 20 ft. lbs. Finished. Some Purple Power and a couple more scrub sessions and I'll have this thing cleaned up pretty good by the time I install the other parts.

Modified by positronone at 2:35 PM 12/15/2006

Modified by positronone at 2:37 PM 12/15/2006
Modified by positronone at 2:03 PM 3/29/2007


94_240sx
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Man... this is the best Subframe Collar Install write up. I'm going to do this soon.Thanks!!

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bribot
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nice write-up

87nissanKC
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Good Job man!! I got bored one day and installed my SPL subframe collars, SPL Tension Control Rods, and Nismo S13 Springs and struts...Took about 5 or 6 hours by myself. I know a little long, but i was having fun and did not want it to end.

Im going to have some more "Fun" after Christmas also...New sway bars will be in the mail soon, and strut bars also. After that all i will need is the Helical LSD and the suspension will be done....enough....for now.

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positron1
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87nissanKC wrote:Good Job man!! I got bored one day and installed my SPL subframe collars, SPL Tension Control Rods, and Nismo S13 Springs and struts...Took about 5 or 6 hours by myself. I know a little long, but i was having fun and did not want it to end.

Im going to have some more "Fun" after Christmas also...New sway bars will be in the mail soon, and strut bars also. After that all i will need is the Helical LSD and the suspension will be done....enough....for now.
What kind of sway and strut bars are you getting?

87nissanKC
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positronone wrote:What kind of sway and strut bars are you getting?
I will be getting Suspension Techniques sway bars, and Greddy strut bars. Just have to be sure the strut bars fit in the engine bay.

Thoughtful_One
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I thought the dial for adjusting the stiffness for the shocks is supposed to face in towards the car. That is the way my mechanic installed it. Additionally, I read this in a few other posts.

240DRFT
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whered u get the bearings for that ebay bar??

and whats with the red bar in the first pic??

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positron1
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240DRFT wrote:whered u get the bearings for that ebay bar??

and whats with the red bar in the first pic??
That red bar is a lower control arm bar and I got it to replace the ebay lower control arm bar near my differential. It's got spherical bearings and seems to have fewer flex points than the ebay bar I'm replacing.

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positron1
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Thoughtful_One wrote:I thought the dial for adjusting the stiffness for the shocks is supposed to face in towards the car. That is the way my mechanic installed it. Additionally, I read this in a few other posts.
Dude, I don't know what kind of shocks you have but I'm looking at the instructions for my KYB AGX's right now and it says and I quote "Upon installation, the dial should be facing outward for easy accessibility. There is no way to make "on the fly" adjustments like KYB claims if the shocks dial is facing inward unless you got some really open face wheels on the car and even then you can't tell what number they are set on.

Thoughtful_One
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I have AGX as well ... Hmmm, very true. I wasn't sure about this. My mechanic installed them. I'll be installing solid Al bushings soon which means that I can switch the shocks around.

94_240sx
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Does anyone know name of this bar and where I can get it? Worth ir or not? Thanks!


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positron1
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94_240sx wrote:Does anyone know name of this bar and where I can get it? Worth ir or not? Thanks!
That was some el-cheapo lower control arm bar that I got off ebay for about $19. It had too many flex-points so I got a sturdier bar with spherical bearings on the end to replace it with.
Modified by positronone at 7:52 AM 1/6/2007

Thoughtful_One
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positronone wrote:Dude, I don't know what kind of shocks you have but I'm looking at the instructions for my KYB AGX's right now and it says and I quote "Upon installation, the dial should be facing outward for easy accessibility. There is no way to make "on the fly" adjustments like KYB claims if the shocks dial is facing inward unless you got some really open face wheels on the car and even then you can't tell what number they are set on.
I just called KYB about this and the tech. representative said "the dial should never face towards the tire," which only makes sense because adjusting the settings would be incredibly difficult unless you have rims which will allow you to adjust them. The dials have to face inwards, or towards the differential.

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positron1
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Thoughtful_One wrote:
I just called KYB about this and the tech. representative said "the dial should never face towards the tire," which only makes sense because adjusting the settings would be incredibly difficult unless you have rims which will allow you to adjust them. The dials have to face inwards, or towards the differential.
KYB is starting to confuse me...the instructions say outward and a KYB tech says inward. I have aftermarket rims so adjustment with them outward is simple and on the fly. I guess if you had the stock wheels or some full face rims then you'd have to take the tires off so it wouldn't matter how you had them positioned. But I tell you again, I'm looking at the instructions and they say "OUTWARD FOR EASY ACCESSIBILITY".

Thoughtful_One
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I'm not doubting you, but think if you had the stock steel wheels with hub caps. Adjusting them would be very difficult. They can be adjusted easily when they are pointing inwards.

youngmanvr4
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Good write up, easy install.

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positron1
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Thoughtful_One wrote:I'm not doubting you, but think if you had the stock steel wheels with hub caps. Adjusting them would be very difficult. They can be adjusted easily when they are pointing inwards.
True, I wonder if it really affects performance at all if you point them inside or out. Maybe it's just users perogative.

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DuckyD
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How do the collars feel when you're driving on the street? Any issues with too much noise or bumps?

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positron1
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Everythings fine until you hit some bumps, then you here it in the rear. There's some noise but it's worth the extra stiffness that you get back.

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positron1
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Hey, I'm starting to wonder how it would feel with the solid bushings.

del82
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Are there any advantages to these collars over say, a urethane bushing set? Besides price, as I suspect the collars are cheaper.

spartanmisfit
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im confused, where do the larger pieces go?


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