watch this video...do i need valve adjustment??

[gbaz77]

what do you guys think?? is that valve/lifter tick?? if so, can the rb20det valves be adjusted. ive heard hydraulic valves no need adjusting....are the rb20det valves mechanical or hydraulic?? thanks

gamay

[skillzilla]

Mine has a slight tick, but it goes away when u rev it. I dont know what that is...

[240TweakerNewbee]

I would just go through and check timinmg, compression, oil pressure...etc. If its none of those things, pull the head, find a full service manual, and go to town checking valvetrain tolerances. Chances are its not bottom end; but I wouldn't push that motor until you find out what that is.

[Darius]

Hydraulic lifters do not need to be adjusted unless they are severely worn and then they should just be replaced. It sounds kind of like my motor did when my lifters weren't primed. I had to pull the head to have it resurfaced and that's why they got air in them. Check your oil pressure, because it should be able to prime the lifters without you having to manually do it.

Don't run that motor without fixing this because it is not a normal sound which means wear is occuring somewhere.

[USMCgetsome]

check your timing belt and the alignment to the markers. Sounds like mine did when the belt slipped a tooth. Compression will be fine just readjust the belt man. I know that sound cause i ran my motor like that for 6 months. Sounds like it wants to die. lol.

[gbaz77]

thanks for the input. i have my mechanic checking oil pressure now, and ill have him look at the timing too. thanks alot.

[nizmo zilvia]

boo! I say make it a mini project and do it yourself instead of throwing the $$ away for labor and such. And if you dont kno how, that what friends and forums are for

[SpecVrooom]

mine is doing the same exact thing....what did your mechanic say?

[Yellow4g63]

Mine made that same sound right after it over heated bad on me one day. After it cooled off the noise went away. What kinda oil do you run? if it is the head thicker oil should help.

[gbaz77]

see, i read that you shouldnt go straight from reg. oil to syn. im not sure what oil was in there when i got it, but my guess would be reg. i put in synthetic at first, and i believe thats when it started ticking. to make it worse, the first syn. oil i put in was really thin (5w-30) i believe. i read up that its better to have thicker oil, so i switched to 15w-50, still syn., within a week or so (not driving that much). its still ticking so im thinking i should go back to reg oil and maybe doing 20w-50 or something.

if i take the valve covers off, is there anything i can do to help the lifters, since it seems like the valves wont need adjusting (according to the feedback on here)???

[USMCgetsome]

ok man. I'm tellin ya to take off the timing cover and even the damn crank pulley and look at all your timing markers. This happens when u skip a tooth on the timing marks. This can happen for several reasons. Mine happened because of a faulty idler pully bolt shearing off. Everyone here said the same thing and if you need help were here for ya. You can literally do this yourself. All your going to need is a steering wheel puller kit and the correct size bolts and a large socket to take off the bolt for the crank pulley. Then take off the belt, line up the cams and crank pulley, then put back on the belt. Rotate the crank pulley 2 full rotations so that the tensioner pulley will sit back on and tighten everything down. Viola, your done.

Easier way to tell is to advace the cas fully and watch your motor run and idle smooth. that will tell ya if you skipped a tooth. This exact same thing happened to me.

[SpecVrooom]

what do you mean "advance the cas"? this is seeming more like my problem. I have a rough idle, but my rpm's stay constant at the proper RPM, would like to try this first just to make sure. Then go buy the tools needed.

[USMCgetsome]

looking at the motor advance the cas counter clock wise. If your idle stables out then i can assure you that your timing is off. Happened to me. Due to idle pulley and tensioner pulley.

[SpecVrooom]

I still cant figure out what "cas" is. I dont have a distributor to advance the timing on if thats what it refers too.

[Gold Digger]

CAS is your cam angle sensor. Its the sensor right on the front of your timing belt cover. Can't miss it. Mark where it is currently though before you advance your timing. That way after you make your repairs, you can put it back to where it was.

[rb20det_pwr]

Cam Angle Sensor! you dont have a distributor but instead you have cam angle sensor. its silver on the front of your engine. You could try moving it to see, but i thought that they pretty much adjust themselves.

Try moving it around, and if no difference, check the timing.And dont dissapear after you get it resolved, I'm curious as to what it is.

[rb20det_pwr]

Man you beat me to it C33! Your up bright and early for nico

[SpecVrooom]

Don't worry, I ain't gonna dissapear, I am glad that gbaz77 had the foresite to videotape what what happening so we all can learn from it. A picture is worth a thousand words, a video....a lot more! Got the service manual out, taking off that timing chain to move it over one tooth (if it skipped a tooth) looks like a pain. Especially since the book shows the engine out of the car, and we all know that that isn't always (or hardly ever) the case. Might try fixing it this weekend, since it looks like a 2 day job for me. Ill keep ya informed.

[gbaz77]

im about to see if my teeth are lined up correctly, it doesnt look like you need to take the engine out. it looks like the belt can slip off the two cam gears if you need to readjust them. the only thing i may have to remove is the KOYO since it gives no space to move the crank pulley. not sure if that gives any insight.

[Darius]

You don't need to remove the motor to get at your timing belt. There's plenty of room in there once you take out the radiator to get at the crank pulley to remove it. There is a diagram in the FSM that shows the number of teeth that should be between the teeth when the notches on the cam gears are aligned with the grooves on the rear timing cover and notch on the crank gear is aligned with the notch on the oil pump lip. Count them up and see if they match the FSM. If not, remove and reinstall.

[gbaz77]

hey all,

that ticking from the video i posted zerothread/190500 was NOT timing, and NOT low oil pressure due to pan damage, it was lifter tick from a couple of worn/bent shims. so if anyone else gets a tick, they might want to check shims.

also, i know this isnt a classifieds forum, but please excuse this RB forum request, someone broke into my car when the car was in the shop, and screwed up my drivers side door handle-unit. anyone have one i can buy (or pay shipping and get for free)?? any help on this is appreciated, i havent yet hit the junk yards but will tomorrow if i get time. its an s13.

gamay

[SpecVrooom]

How hard and how much $ and time did it take to fix that. what did you do to fix it?

[gbaz77]

got it done from a trusted mechanic for just under $400. i didnt do it myself.

[Shocker]

oil! sounds exactly like low oil level!!!

[eh?]

Did your mechanic say it was Shims? I ask because hydraulic lifters don't have shims..

[gbaz77]

it was either lifters or shims. i didnt personally look at it when it was all apart, but it wasnt oil, timing, or anything aformentioned. it was lifter tick, but i thought i remember him saying something about shims.