Ok guys, here is some window info.As I've said, these windows can last a really long time if taken care of.Here are the rules:1. NEVER go to an automatic car wash (s*cks, I know)(read your car's vert manual, I think it discusses this)2. The self wash is ok, try not to use the scrub brush on the window3. When you wash your car, start with the rear window so that your soapy water and wash mit are fresh. Run water over the window constantly while using your really soft mit with lots of car soap. Try to knock off most of the loose dirt before touching the window. Wipe gently in ONE direction. I stress Gently! Rinse like crazy. 4. Air Dry! No wiping, rubbing, no towels, chamois, microfiber, nothing.5. BUY PLEXUS. Plexus is a one of a kind product (check aircraft supply companies like Sporty's or type it into yahoo shopping). This is the ONLY product approved for these windows. When window is dry, spray it with plexus and wipe and buff gently with a clean microfiber (or really soft) cloth. Plexus will clean the window, remove airborne particles from the plastic, get rid of minor to moderate hazing and scratches, and it has a special wax in it that protects and moisturizes the window. Do this! Window will last for years without any hazing or problems. It will also stay soft and will spring back to being flat and smooth very easily when you put the top back up. Soft plastic doesn't crack...6. There are plastic rubbing compounds out there that will get rid of hazing and scratches on these windows. Careful with these products, some will hurt your window, some won't do anything. Test very carefully. Many of these products are pain in the *ss. Always follow up with Plexus.7. No window/glass cleaner or any other chemicals should touch your window.8. If you have a car duster, never use it on the window.9. Do not leave the window folded down for long periods. Keep the top up when you aren't driving the car. If left folded for long enough, the window won't spring back to shape and it can grow mold on it. The mold probably won't come off.

That's a start. I will add more when I think of it. Next post will be info on tinted windows.


Modified by attwater at 3:28 PM 7/17/2006

Here is info on replacement/tinted windows:

I believe there is actually only one manufacturer that cranks out our window plastic and most other window plastic in existence. Their name slips me at the moment. Everyone sells the windows but they are made in one place.Ask any upholstery shop to see their samples and you will see:1. clear (you probably have this already)2. smoke (barely tinted, nothing special)3. charcoal (nice dark black tint)4. green (whatever works...)There is no color between 2 and 3. 3 looks great though. ...and you can see outside just fine. Any upholstery shop can get this for you.These windows are always expensive as many of you know, so try to follow my above directions.

Here is another good point:The top attaches to the frame with what looks like really strong ziplock. The top isn't really designed to be detached and reattached to the frame. The top needs to be detached to replace your window. You can probably get away with detaching your top once (I'm sure people can argue this...) but it won't be the same afterwards and the fabric will start to debond from the plastic retainers (not fixable). Then at speeds over 30mph your top will look like a pretty stupid bubble (you may not notice this while inside the car). Thus, take care of that window. If you need a new top, buy an Elektron top. I'm serious about Elektron tops. I firmly beleive that they are the best on the market.

Finally, NEW IDEAS:I have been thinking about going to an office supply store and buying a piece of posterboard (not cardboard, but rather that thin plastic posterboard that you have probably seen before). I would then cut this down to size and (it is bendy) insert it over the window and under the flaps in the fabric. This would cover the window and shield it from the brushes of an automatic car wash. Then you can use a normal car wash when necessary and remove it and toss into the trunk when done. Window wouldn't be clean, but at least the car would be. This would work if you were in a rush. Thoughts?

Great information attwater, thanks. I would avoid the automatic car wash in any case however. I don' t think they're great for convertibles anyway especially old ones with questionable seals. I remember taking my Infiniti M30 through one and being soaked when finished.

Plus I consider hand-washing quality time with my 'vert

attwater wrote: If you need a new top, buy an Elektron top. I'm serious about Elektron tops. I firmly beleive that they are the best on the market.

Can yo post a link to a distributer. I googled with no luckthanks

G_sl1de wrote:Can yo post a link to a distributer. I googled with no luckthanks

I searched and found out that it's Electron, not Elektron.

http://www.electrontop.com/

Here's their catalog for 240 top.

BTW, attwater has been missing since he posted his interior upgrade. Has anyone seen him? I might email him and see if he's okay...

Another great product I've been using for over 10 years is "210" Spray. My window still looks brand new after all these years. This spray product is available at most boating stores. bm

I wished I followed these rules when I got my window replaced. Literally, I scraped some snow off my brand new plastic rear window...and now I got scratches galore. Oh well...