Help Me with my Main Bearings
Help Me with my Main Bearings
I was reading that I have to get numbers off the crank to find what bearings I need for my Ka24de-t. The problem is when I look for bearings like these clevitte or the other brands of Aftermarket ones I dont see anything about these numbers.. Just application E.G will fit Ka24de will fit sr20det So what do I do buy the bearings and give them to machine shop or do I get the numbers and go get OEM ones? or I was told also I should buy the bearings have the crank machined to fit them or something like that please if anyone can help me....
I admit that I dont know a ton about this subject, but I beleive that clevite sells bearings for the KA in 2 (maybe 3?) sizes. There is a "standard" size, that will most likely fit, or, if your crank is especially worn or had to be turned, there are oversize sizes. If your crank is OEM and hasnt been damaged much- get the standard bearings, they will most likely fit. Confirm the fit of course using plastiguage and the bearing clearances listed in the FSM.
You can also avoid the whole headache by having your machine shop do all the bearing measuring/ordering. That way, its the machine shop's problem to make sure the correct sizes are ordered and installed.
You can also avoid the whole headache by having your machine shop do all the bearing measuring/ordering. That way, its the machine shop's problem to make sure the correct sizes are ordered and installed.
Re: Help Me with my Main Bearings (uvamosk)
Bearing sizes for import motors are crazy.. They have a selection of sizes to match the crank and the mains / rods... The difference in size from the largest bearing to the smallest bearing is about .0005" (half a thousandth of an inch) which is practically nothing...
When building a higher performance motor, clearances are increased to compensate for higher expansion of parts due to increased heat... Aftermarket performance bearings have the added clearance built in.. There is enough clearance that .0005" does not make a difference... The Clevite bearings are offered in STD (standard size) and .025 mm (for cranks that need to be ground down due to damage)... basically if you have damaged crank journals, an automotive machine shop can grind the crank down by .010" to clean it up.. If it doesnt clean up, then the crank is scrap (or it can be welded.. but this is another story)...
I would have your machine shop inspect the crank for damage.. A crank with no damage can just be polished and STD replacement bearings can be used.. Always measure or use plasti-gauge to check bearing clearance.. If the clearance is within spec, your good to go... If its out of spec, you can align hone the block or hone the rods or have the crank polished a bit more (recomended)
Hope this helps...
When building a higher performance motor, clearances are increased to compensate for higher expansion of parts due to increased heat... Aftermarket performance bearings have the added clearance built in.. There is enough clearance that .0005" does not make a difference... The Clevite bearings are offered in STD (standard size) and .025 mm (for cranks that need to be ground down due to damage)... basically if you have damaged crank journals, an automotive machine shop can grind the crank down by .010" to clean it up.. If it doesnt clean up, then the crank is scrap (or it can be welded.. but this is another story)...
I would have your machine shop inspect the crank for damage.. A crank with no damage can just be polished and STD replacement bearings can be used.. Always measure or use plasti-gauge to check bearing clearance.. If the clearance is within spec, your good to go... If its out of spec, you can align hone the block or hone the rods or have the crank polished a bit more (recomended)
Hope this helps...
So, I should throw the idea of betting the OEM bearing numbers of the crank and just buy the STD: bearings from CLEVITE? My crank Should be perfect it came from a Ka24de with 150,000miles on it and wasnt abused ... it is going to get polished and checked here soon... I just didn't want to throw bearings in there and they where not right ... This was one of the things holding up my engine build so if these answers are right i can order bearings tomarrow and have it almost done... my last question then is.. where can i buy a OIL pump, and timing kit... I wanted to get a HIGH performance OIL pump since this is a turbo engine. So here is my last thought...
I buy the bearing have the machine shop check clearnce if its off polish crank... so make the crank fit the bearings is the deal here !!! right...
I buy the bearing have the machine shop check clearnce if its off polish crank... so make the crank fit the bearings is the deal here !!! right...
Re: (uvamosk)
I have assembled countless KA motors with the STD Clevite bearings and have never had an issue with clearance.. The Clevite bearings are all sold with oversize thrust flanges which bring the thrust clearance down to the low end of limits... Have your machine shop measure thrust clearance also if you go with the Clevites... Because the KA main girdle does not have locators, you will need to torque the mains then loosen them and move the crank backwards and forwards with a rubber mallet to get the main girdle aligned with the block...
There are no high performance oil pumps available for the KA... A stock one that is rebuilt works just fine...
There are no high performance oil pumps available for the KA... A stock one that is rebuilt works just fine...
Re: (fiznat)
Hi Foster... It makes me giggle thinking about you as a "big wig" moderator and respected forum contributer.... You have learned a LOT in the past couple years.... Good job Grasshopperfiznat wrote:Great info there, thanks alot Ivan. Good to see ya around.
P.S. I talked to WD and he is talking to Greg this weekend about Turbo240 coming on line as a forum sponsor...
Re: (9sec240)
I'm interested in this concept in further detail. Could you please elaborate further, or send me an email about this?....maybe some pics for reference?9sec240 wrote:...Because the KA main girdle does not have locators, you will need to torque the mains then loosen them and move the crank backwards and forwards with a rubber mallet to get the main girdle aligned with the block...
Thanks
[email protected]
Re: (KATwo40)
I feel likewise can you go into further detail... please
Re: (KATwo40)
This is a really crude drawing of a missalignment between the main girdle and the block... As you can see, in this position most of the thrust clearance would be gone... To align the girdle correctly you need to move the crank forward and backwards to push the main girdle into place... I do this after I have plasti-gauged the mains when I am installing the crank for the final time... I torque the main studs (or bolts) to the first step to seat the girdle and then loosen them to allow the girdle to move.... I hit the snout of the crank with a large heavy rubber mallet fairly hard towards the back of the motor... Then I hit the crank from the opposit direction... Then once again from the front but at half speed... Doing it three times insures that the main girdle is aligned with the block... This aligns the thrust flange on the top and bottom bearing perfectly... This insures proper crank end play and oil clearance....
Im really sorry to say this but... I kinda get what your saying and i kinda dont... I understand pulling the crank one way then pushing it back the other way to get the bearings to line up ... but I dont get why they wouldnt be lined up when you put them in and tighten the main bolts on the rods? If you could break this down a little more for me I would be very thankful and also do you know a link to a site that sales the bearings i shoudl buy... Thank you so much again
Re: (uvamosk)
Circled is the #3 main bearing... You can see the bearing is different from the rest.. It has a thrust flange on it... This is what keeps the crank from moving too far forward or backwards in the block...
In this picture you can see the crank laid into the block... You can see how the crank nestles up next to the bearing thrust flange...
The main girdle has the same bearing on it... The thrust flange on the main girdle MUST be lined up with the thrust flange on the block... Because the main girdle does not have locating pins, it can be too far forward or backwards (look at the diagram I posted earlier)... Moving the crank back and forth aligns the thrust flange surfaces....
I am not a NICO sponsor so I cant advertise here... Maybe sombody else here can tell you where you can buy Clevite bearings....
Re: (fiznat)
Hey now.... I am only here to help...fiznat wrote:lol, very slick Ivan. Doesnt hurt that the URL is in your signature either haha. I may be a grasshopper, but I've been around long enough to remember your advertising tactics lol.
Glad to hear you may be coming aboard.
Find Your Forum!