Can you help me find a Q45a for sale, and prisident clip? send body kit pics 2

[Cathode]

I am looking for a 1991 active q, president sheet metal, and chrome package. I know it'll cost money, but people spend way more for fiberglass willy's. For 15k I can buy new crap or a restored gem that i drolled over in junior highschool. Considering the willys guys were in Jr 60 years ago it sorta makes sense. Ill take any connections you guys have. Also can you post me some president body kits? I know this sounds like a lazy thread, but I am asking to buy stuff so i dont think it counts. I am serious about this and i have the money It is scheduling thats the largest complication.
Modified by Cathode at 4:20 PM 2/8/2006

[one ton garage]

Well, here's the test of your seriousness... president front and rear end conversion (no bumpers) will run you about $4500-4800. That includes shipping/customs/fees to northern CA, but if you are located outside the bay area, shipping to you would be additional. figure honda kids were paying more than that just for beat up integra front end conversions just a few years ago.

I'd personally recommend against using an a-trim as the base, because they actually limit your susp options. For the bumpers, I'd actually suggest adapting a modern-style bodykit, as most anything avl for the president are older, blockier designs (i.e. with the big snowplow lips). The way to do this would be to modify a garson DAD style kit from a lexus ucf10-20 celsior... more money, but unique and bad *** it will be.

Or if you're not dead set on a president, i'm probably going to offer a turn-key zenki G50 Q45 built VIP style on ebay soon... bodykit already here... steel flares over 12s/13s... etc. Or if you really do still want president conversion parts, I've got a shipment of stuff leaving Japan very soon and wouldn't mind getting some more big stuff in there

[maxnix]

I've got a shipment of stuff leaving Japan very soon and wouldn't mind getting some more big stuff in there

Like KYB SR Special for the FY33? Have you spoken to Kevin?

[Cathode]

I prefer getting a loan and getting everything from the same person even if it is in pieces. It is just smoother. I live in LA and gas is high so shipping might be cheaper than puting that stuff in the back of the truck and driving home. If it is the A I don't want any suspension mods outside of a new computer. I prefer a 1991 Q for emissions reasons.

For a body kit I want basically this

zer...0.jpghttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...i.jpg

[Cathode]

Oh If it matters do you know where you can get those reclining heated rear seats and dinner trays? Also is there any chance that it would be cheaper to just import a whole President? I am not sudgesting anything illegal but a clapped out $500 q45 with blown engine is a great donor for all the parts needed to make the car street and DOT legal.

[one ton garage]

the first kit you linked to is more along the lines of what I meant about new-style bodykits... they're a bit more subtle, and in many cases, can almost pass as oem.

It's not a better idea to bring in a whole used president, because it's usually not worth bringing in a japanese equivalent of something we basically already have over here... and since the Q45 is mechanically so similar to the president already-with the only real major differences being cosmetic-it's more worthwhile just getting those cosmetic components and fitting them to a usdm q45 that is already here, and easily-registerable.

And I'd still recommend against an A model if you want to modify it in any way. people say it rides nice when everything is functioning properly, but even if you get an A with a fully-functioning susp, or if you get a blown susp A and rebuild all the susp components, it is most likely destined to ultimately fail again within the lifetime of your ownership of the vehicle (well, unless you decide to sell it within a couple years).

If your goal with the A's active susp is to run an aftermarket controller to adjust height, you should know that there isn't that great a range of adjustment even with the controllers... you won't be able to get that low, and height changes will be a little slow. Getting a non-A G50 and running a well-engineered, aftermarket air susp system will net you a good ride, large range of height adjustment at a faster speed with more consistency, and way less compexity (i.e. less parts to potentially fail).

With all that said, are you looking at just acquiring parts and building the car yourself, or were you more hoping to get a turn-key car built to your specs.. ready to run? If it's the latter, I would suggest something along the lines of the following:- get clean, mechanically-sound zenki G50 Q45- get president front and rear conversion parts- get DAD-style UCF10/20 bodykit- get short-stroke air susp components- get some nice 19", low offset wheels (style of wheel up to you... 5 spoke, multi-spoke, mesh, dish face, etc...)- bolt on president panels- modify bodykit to fit HG50- paint car- then worry about interior, stereo stuff later...

Or, if you want to go the former route, and just get the president parts i can help you acquire them also... well, I can help you go either way... but how serious are you? It's not going to be cheap to do it right.

[maxnix]

I can help you go either way... but how serious are you? It's not going to be cheap to do it right.

When it's time to flash the cash, most must dash.

[Cathode]

Im confused the other guy claimed the active suspension would last 60k between checkups. Also I am not a big fan of air. I don't plan on lowering the car on the active. As for mods I'll do everything on the car except rebuild the active system unless someone can give a play by play. Wheels are last on my list because right now I can't find any i like.

If the active system is realy a no go then can you import me a j30 v8 x-member.

So

- Car- Active Rebuild- After market suspension CPU- President Sheetmetal- body kit

Give me your phone number so we can talk.

[Rex]

No offense to One Ton, he knows his stuff, but Keith (texasoil) is the resident expert on the active system and rebuilds them as a side. But as always, take everyones advice and then do what you want.

[one ton garage]

I'm sure the active system can be made to last, but again, is it truly worth it, especially for a car that is meant to be modified to that extent...? and remember, if it's looks you're after, the two most important factors are: stance and wheel fitment. You can have an otherwise 100% stock car, but give it a nice stance and wheel/tire setup and it can look better than any other heavily-modified car out there. some examples:

[Rex]

One Ton has a point, if you plan on modifying the stance, finding/rehabbing an active would seem like a waste of time.

Those are some great looking cars, are they Presidents or Q's with President front ends?

[HashiriyaS14]

Those are some great looking cars, are they Presidents or Q's with President front ends?

I'm guessing they're real Prezzies. Steering wheels are all on the right side (cept the real darkly-tinted one, where I can't tell).

[Cathode]

I wish we had a long wheel base q45 here. Anyway I have pretty much decided for an active q I just have not been able to find one. Under further consideration I could make the president conversion a priority, and buy that first. I have figured out unique ways to get around DOT lighting requirements until I can get some nice lights converted.

So One Ton how do I contact your shop?

[one ton garage]

the pics I posted are all real presidents... they're all used cars for sale in Japan. All the G50 chassis cars have been seeing a resurgance in popularity over the last year and a half/2 years over there, so prices on the cars and parts have been slowly going up. i liken it to what's happening over here.. people are realizing that the G50 is a pretty solid platform that can look nice when modified, and can be had at a great price. Sometimes people just need to see a few good examples to get their juices flowing, and to be inspired

you can email me at: [email protected]

[Cathode]

you ever email me back?

[Rex]

I'm guessing they're real Prezzies. Steering wheels are all on the right side (cept the real darkly-tinted one, where I can't tell).

I asked, cause the Q45/G50 was sold in JDM and some guys do "President-ize" theirs over there. Was curious if those were examples of how it could/would look.

[one ton garage]

cathode: yup emailed you back the other day

rex: the G50 is seeing a major resurgance in popularity in Japan, so there's a lot more demand for Presidents and President parts lately... a lot of front and rear ends are being used to convert Q45s into pseudo-Presidents. Actually, once converted, they're pretty much 99% Presidents cuz there's not much else different between Qs and Presidents beyond the cosmetic items... and if done correctly, the changeover should look like any of the pics I posted of factory Presidents

[texasoil]

There is nothing else like a properly functioning Q45a. They ARE reliable and durable. However, if what you are after is a ride different in stance from factory--you are barking up the wrong tree. The active suspension system is designed to run under the standard ride heights--changing that very much screws up the system dynamics which the control computer and algorithims were designed for--any you become a 'test pilot'.

Rehabbing a trashed active system can be extremely costly. If its flat accumulators, no big deal. If its worn out active pump--they are cheap---$385-same price as standard PS pumps!. Question is why did the pump fail? Wear out is not a good answer--they simply do not wear unless the system is full of trash/contamination--and that erodes the control valves--which are basically non-repairable (no replacement parts available) and $1800-$3500 each (3 of them)The active computer RARELY fails-low voltage operation will overheat them and very high voltage spikes will kill most automotive electronics so be very carefullis ever 'jump starting' or running with a low/dead battery.

Other active system parts are the 4 height sensore (nearly bullet proof, extremely rare to fail) and the G-sensors--solid state, exceptionally rare to fail) and of course the struts can begin to leak if the dust boots were not maintained and sand & grit allowed to eat up the posilhed shaft and seal. (Seals ARE renewable, but not OEM ) Its really a 'simple' yet very advanced suspension system. The magic of high powered computers in the contol unit and solid state g-sensors and ultra-reliable height sensors) enable very sophisticated body movement control.It incorporates engine speed, vehicle speed, throttle position, brake application, body attitude-tilt,dive, squat, body absolute movement in space, suspension movement and changes in and rate of change in all paramaters, vehicle weight -what is the load- and computed the 'optimum' way to adjust the pressure in each strut top minimize movement of the car body in space.

[Rex]

cathode: yup emailed you back the other day

rex: the G50 is seeing a major resurgance in popularity in Japan, so there's a lot more demand for Presidents and President parts lately... a lot of front and rear ends are being used to convert Q45s into pseudo-Presidents. Actually, once converted, they're pretty much 99% Presidents cuz there's not much else different between Qs and Presidents beyond the cosmetic items... and if done correctly, the changeover should look like any of the pics I posted of factory Presidents

Good info. I was curious to know of the FE swap looked like ans S13 with a Silvia FE or and S13 with a R32 FE, or was it as complicated as an S13/14 with an S15 FE.

Just lots of "wonder how that would look" scenarios.

[one ton garage]

Good info. I was curious to know of the FE swap looked like ans S13 with a Silvia FE or and S13 with a R32 FE, or was it as complicated as an S13/14 with an S15 FE.

Just lots of "wonder how that would look" scenarios.

I would liken it more to an S13 Silvia front end swap on an S13 car.... mostly body panels.

I think even in Japan, people avoid the active susp models for modifications, even with the availability of adj susp controllers... most folks seem to end up swapping over to non-adj suspension if they want to lower their G50s.

[GreenQ45a]

I own a 1994 Green Q45a With a Active\Air susenpsion controller.

Before reading remeber the Active Q45a\HG50 rides 1.1 - 1.6 inches lower than a stock Q45\G50

The biggest advantage to having an after market suspension controller is no so much dropping you car (which mine lowers two inches\ three inches lower than a stock Q45\G50) it is the fact that I can raise my Q45a\HG50 up as well so if I go in an area where more clearance is needed I can just push a button and raise it up 5 inches then if you use the built in Hight adj switch it will raise another 2 inches...

"But who wants to raise there car"

Anyone with a nice paint job and a good body kit and has to drive through a parking lot with speed bumps, on dirt or mountian roads.

I like one ton garage's Q45 base model with rims but the ability to adjust your suspension at will is AWSOME and should not be discounted...

I have a set of Keith's (Texasoil's) recharged accumulators on my Q45a\HG50 (still need to ship back the cores for the struts and accumulators) and I owned a 1993 Base Q45\G50 .

The active package on my 1994 is like night and day...

One ton is right about one thing my Active Q45 is not slammed like his base Q45 I can only lower my car 2 in from stock... however I can raise mine up at the push of a button...

This will come in handy once I get my Impul body kit to keep it perfect and keep from being one of those guys with a scuffed, cracked and bondo'd bodykit...

By the way I can take a street speed bump at 50+ with my Q45a\HG50 with it raised 1.5 in front and 2.5 in the back... and I programed my controller to lower my Q45a\HG50 all the way down while on the freeway (or 30MPH+) and return to ride height if speed drops below 30 MPH...

I'll post some pictures of my ride lowered and raised up...

A good set of struts (Blues) will run you 500.00 - 800.00 every three years (not counting coilovers)...A recharging on a set of Texasoil accumulators about 400.00 - 500.00 every 3-5 years... if your active is in good repair these should be the only parts besides hoses that you need to maintain... once its restored an active is cheaper to own in the long run...

Just my input...