Looking for advice on my KA-T build...

[AZhitman]

After 2 failed motors and WAY too much downtime, I've decided it's time to build a stout, reliable foundation for the Convertible.

Here's the deal - The motor will be built by a local builder who's well-versed in Nissan performance engines, and has a good relationship with the local performance machine shop...

I am NOT a "numbers chaser" - I'd like this engine to be ABLE to handle 12-15 psi, although it will probably stay closer to 7-9 psi all the time.

I want this engine to be reliable and long-lived, as it will not be seeing daily use, more like 2000 miles per year or so.

So, let's hear some advice on brands, specific parts, and who has the "deals" You guys are the experts - I'm compiling a parts list, and I'd like to keep costs DOWN.

I know I need pistons, possibly rods, hardware and bearings... What else?

[DammitBobby]

First one was rod knock what happen to the second one??

[AZhitman]

2nd one was a fresh OEM rebuild in which the builder apparently has no clue how to orient rings... Bad compression across all 4.

[nismofly]

what kind of turbo...still IAP t3/t04e?

i think thats what you had the first time

[grimple1]

The turbo240sx.com rebuild KA package is a pretty good deal.

2,039 for Pistons, Crower rods, Clevite Main/Rod Bearings, Fel Pro Gasket, Mr. Gasket Copper Exhaust Gasket, ARP Head/Main Studs, Cometic Head Gasket and all timing parts.

That's a good deal, IMO.

They also have a basic rebuild kit for 1k.

BASIChttp://www.amsperformance.com/...d=301

ADVANCEDhttp://www.amsperformance.com/...d=303

[DammitBobby]

Dam, I hope you didn`t have to pay for that! My 525.00 long block is doing good so far:) I bought it from one of our members that decided to put something else in.

[S13FREEAAK]

My advice is stay away from Supertech.

Wiseco pistons are very nice looking. I haven't had a chance to use mine yet, but I can tell you that they are much better designed that supertech. They have an offset wrist pin and they are also considerably lighter than Supertech's.

[onosqv]

I want this engine to be reliable and long-lived, as it will not be seeing daily use, more like 2000 miles per year or so.

So, let's hear some advice on brands, specific parts, and who has the "deals" You guys are the experts - I'm compiling a parts list, and I'd like to keep costs DOWN.

2000 mi a year??? Turbo cars are MEANT to be driven!!

But really, if it's seeing that lil mileage, you should start chasing the numbers .

And if you reallllly want to keep prices down, swap a sohc into there, hehe.

Realistically, to keep prices down, you can weld all your own stuff - run a jgs manifold, those are reliable if welded well & slot flanged.

I'm personally using a realnissan (or whatever they are called now) manifold because it's ironcast and "seems" to be sturdier.

[Florida240sx]

He already has turbo kit.He just needs an engine to last.Your going to spend over 2k to build an engine.When I get my engine built goign with brand new everything.Alternator, starter, water pump, oil pump, and gaskets of course. I guarantee the one thign you don't replace is going to fail. You shoudl be set with this stuff for over 100k miles easily. So therefore 100,000/2,000=50yr of Az burning up the roads

[fiznat]

Ok well bieng that you already have most of the turbo kit, heres a list of things that you'll need to get that reliable longblock running:

Pistons: (Ross/CP/Weisco/Supertech are all fine, I have yet to see or hear of a real quality difference between the three that will make any difference to us. Expect to spend about $400-$500 for a good deal)

Rods: (Pauter/Crower are the main brands. Usual price is about $700 shipped, so If you can find a deal for less than that anywhere -- which is tough -- then snatch them right up. Any kit of pistons should come with wristpins and rings.)

Bearings: (I prefer Clevite, they've never failed me yet and I cant complain. For a full set including rod and main bearings, expect to spend about $100ish)

ARP Hardware: Necessary if you're looking for the tough "fully built" motor, a set of these will run you about $250 anywhere. The price doesnt vary much because the kits have to be assembled by the vendor, they're not an off the shelf ARP kit so most places charge a premium. See what you can find, but I havnt found an especially good deal on these anywhere.)

Gaskets: (Headgasket I like to use the Cometic Multi Layer Steel [MLS], which some people have complained about but I think it was mostly user error. Its a very high quality, and farily expensive gasket [bout $80 at a GOOD deal], but worth it imo. Also a Felpro full engine gasket kit will be necessary, which at a good deal is about $120 including both the block + head kits.)

Valves: This is hotly debated, but I would reccomend for a 15+ psi motor to at least throw in some nice high temp Ferra valves on the exhaust side of your head. Temps go up pretty high with the turbo, and a strong reccomendation by my machine shop guy [who is VERY good] pretty much sold me on this idea. I reccomend it, others dont- take what you will. An exaust side only set is about $200 bucks. Also when the head is apart, you should replace the valve guides and seals)

Other Stuff:Machine shop labor - gonna depend on whats local to you, dont forget a FULL balanceClutch - will your current one stand 15psi?New timing components/Oil pump/Water pump - for the "reliability" factorMisc things like RTV, electrical tape, fluids, lots of time.

Thats all I can think of off the top of my head right now. Of course this assumes that you want to use your current turbo kit setup to achieve these goals. As the "target boost" goes up, often so does the necessary quality of all the supporting parts: IC, fuel managment (!!!), fuel delivery, drivetrain + tires, monitoring stuff (wideband?), etc etc etc.

Keep us posted greg!

[toki]

Call Al at ARP to order your stuff. My head/mains were under 200 through him. $211 with 8 exhaust mani studs as well.

look for $400-430 as a good price for forged pistons. People tend to buy them and never use them and through them up for sale again untouched.

and uhh..just don't tell your machine shop there is no rush, or you'll end up like me waiting a month+

[emperor_lunchbox]

FiznatWhere would you recommend getting the felpro gasket set that includes the head and block sets?I am looking to get s rebuild kit too.

[fiznat]

I actually got all of my gaskets through my machine shop, who were able to get me a REALLY good deal since I was already spending a few K with them. Thats another thing I forgot to mention-- get whatever parts you can through your machine shop. They make most of their money on labor, and are usually willing to give you a good price on parts if you're spending money with them. They get good dealer prices on the parts too, since they usually do a fairly large volume.

You can also find the Felpro kit at any Advance Auto/Autozone type place. It comes in 2 parts, the "head" kit and the "block" kit. Total adds up to low $100's iirc.

[emperor_lunchbox]

cool, thanks.I have had the hardest time trying to find sets. I can find them in varying price ranges but I am afraid to buy the ones that cost less, but don't want to buythe more expensive kits. The last thing I want to do is have to search around for one gasket that is impossible to find by itself.Anyway, thanks for your help. And sorry for stealing you post AZ.

[crzycav86]

do a search

[Edub1]

I've decided it's time to build a stout, reliable foundation.

I'd like this engine to be ABLE to handle 12-15 psi, although it will probably stay closer to 7-9 psi all the time.

I want this engine to be reliable and long-lived, as it will not be seeing daily use, more like 2000 miles per year or so.

I'd like to keep costs DOWN.

I know I need pistons, possibly rods, hardware and bearings... What else?

Still trying to get my brain around what you're after here. Sounds like you're after modest power and you want to keep the cost down but you are discussing after market rods, pistons and what not. Also, you're not planning on driving it too much.

I guess it's back to the old question of how fast you want to go.

Obviously, the pistons are a weak link in the KA. Anybody care to comment on how much HP he could safely make with just some reasonably priced aftermarket pistons?

After that I guess it's just how much you want to spend on a car you will rarely drive and how much HP you're after.

[nissanfanatic]

Horsepower is not a good way to rate how strong pistons are.

Torque is directly related to cylinder pressure which is the amount of stress on the engine. The pistons harness this pressure and turn it into work.

As for how much torque a set of aftermarket pistons can hold...well...nobody really knows. You can really only look at other peoples' setups and see what they are running.

Rick runs Wisecos, the Twins' car uses Arias, pretty much all of your mainstream pistons will hold power well assuming the tune is good.

And the stock KA pistons aren't weak.

[AZhitman]

Simplest way to put it is this:

I don't NEED 350hp, as I'll probably only be putting down 220-250 to the wheels. But I want this engine to be "overbuilt", meaning I'd like it to have plenty of leeway - no strain.

Reliability is key here, as I'm sick of messing with it. This car is way too sexy to sit in the garage - I bought it to play with, not to take up space in the garage.

OK, so far I've decided on (and gotten good prices on) CP pistons and Crower rods - so that part is done.

[emperor_lunchbox]

AZwhy did you choose CP pistons?I am not criticizing, I am interested because I haven't decided yet and you probably know more than I do.Also, where are you getting them?If you can divulge that information

[AZhitman]

Simply price... I'm told they're all pretty similar, and I don't know that there's enough difference to make me spend more on a different brand.

Getting them through Intense (NICO sponsor).

[Edub1]

AZ, I'm no expert but the only problems I hear of in that HP range seem to be those week KA pistons. I don't see why you wouldn't be fine with only those mods and all other important stuff replaced. But, if you have some $$$ burning a hole in your pocket I'm sure you can find someone to help you spend it.

[AZhitman]

Actually, the pistons aren't the weak spot in the KA. I know of several running stockers at 10+ psi.

However, in the interest of "overbuilding"...

[emperor_lunchbox]

I will have to check those (CP at Intense) out.

[Kenrik]

I'm looking for a list like this for a SOHC... I'm needing a rebuild because my compression is about 150PSI and I swear I saw some blue smoke when I reved her upto 6k today.. I'm thinking the same way as greg... overbuild it so you don't have to worry, I don't like running on the bleeding edge...

[Craving4Boost]

really? i just finished turboing my car at 150psi across the board for my motor i just swapped in. should i be worried?

[AZhitman]

Those #'s are fine, as long as it's consistent across all 4 cylinders...

[InsanityInc]

Just run on factory compression. No reason to go to lower compression for 7-9psi on a small turbo, that's just wasteful. The stock rods can also handle that no problem. You'll make more power with less boost on the higher CR and also get better milage and drivability. The s15 SR20DET for example runs a 10:1 CR and (I believe) 7psi.

Will your reliability be as good as a stock KA? Not a chance, but regardless of what you build it with it never will be with a turbocharger.

[AZhitman]

Well, I'm certainly not running a "small" turbo but I'm sticking with stock compression ratio CP (9:1) pistons...

Rods are insurance, since I don't want to have to pull this motor anytime soon (at least for the next 5 years).

[nismofly]

be sure to get .020 overbore pistons, not stock bore, i didnt see anyone mention that

[AZhitman]

Yep - Got the .020 overbores. Good catch.