Need some help here...

Post by **DrewQ45** » Sat Nov 12, 2005 2:06 pm

Sorry for the long post....

Got quite a bit done on the Q today but it didn’t all end well.

Drained the rear-end and filled with Mobil 1 syn gear lube.Changed the engine oilSwitched my TCU from 90 back to 93 unitChanged gas filterChanged PCVvalve.

The problem occurred when doing the latter. The car was running fine, I had just never changed the valve and thought it was time. First off, when I was removing the old PCV valve, it just didn’t unscrew right. It seemed it was cross threaded when installed and small metal shavings on the threads confirmed my suspicion. Secondly, the PCV hose was brittle. I mean this thing was petrified. It cracked and broke up in chunks as I was trying to remove it. Reminds me of how badly over-due I am for an under-plenum hose job, but I just don’t have the time or the desire right now. I took a ride to Napa with a chunk of hose and some kid behind the counter cuts off a short section of hose off the reel hands it to me… I barely looked at the thing, took it back home and found that he had given me their cheap fuel line which wouldn’t fit even if it was the right type of hose. Well I took it back and he handed me a larger hose which felt kinda soft but seemed to fit okay.

I cleaned out the PCV valve threading with an old toothbrush and some brake cleaner then tried screwing in the new valve. It would start out easy enough but halfway things would get tight a hurry.... the dreaded cross-thread. No matter how I tried, I could not get it to thread right… Well, I decided not to force it since I don’t feel like buying a new bracket… I coated the the PCV threading with a little RTV silicone and screwed it in, tightening just a little. The valve went in with about 3/8” left to go. I threw on the cheap hose then tried starting it. The car took a long time to start…. understandable as it was a new fuel filter and line which the pump needed to prime.

Took it around the block for a test drive and the car is driving okay. Punched it and it bucked and surged in quick pulses as if unable to breathe right… Eased off and it drove okay until I tried flooring it again with the same result, only now the check engine light was on. I drove slowy back to the house.

Now I don’t know how much suction is exerted on the PCV hose at WOT, but I could just imagine the cheap hose collapsing and cutting off the flow each time I floored it. I’m going to order a new hose and see If it fixes the problem. How firm is this hose to begin with anway? I also don’t know if not having the PCV screwed in all the way is affecting it. Lastly, I know I didn’t let the RTV dry before driving it, however, didn’t think I needed to since I didn’t add any around the tip before screwing it in. Opinions wanted on this one folks. I’m feeling a bit down after doing all this work.

Thanks… Drew….
Modified by DrewQ45 at 8:53 AM 11/13/2005

Post by **3Q Jay** » Sat Nov 12, 2005 6:35 pm

ehhh-don't get down on yourself. 1. the pcv will have 2-3 threads exposed even when its fully seated.2. even if the pcv hose collapses, it won't cause the bucking at WOT

could you have knocked the harness on #2 injector?can you measure fuel pressure? I imagine that would be the key indicator.

Post by **DrewQ45** » Sun Nov 13, 2005 11:25 am

GQ Jay wrote:ehhh-don't get down on yourself. 1. the pcv will have 2-3 threads exposed even when its fully seated.2. even if the pcv hose collapses, it won't cause the bucking at WOT

could you have knocked the harness on #2 injector?can you measure fuel pressure? I imagine that would be the key indicator.

I tried replacing the new PCV with the old... made no difference. Gave the engine throttle while under the hood and found that there is pressure rather than suction going through the PCV hose. The injector wires were never disturbued but I checked them anyway. I'm not sure how to measure the fuel pressure but if you give me a hint, I'll be glad to try.

Additional symptomCar hard to start. Cranks about 4 times before starting. engine light still onWiggled Maf connection and no difference.Temp etc. is fine. All fluids are fine.

Post by **3Q Jay** » Sun Nov 13, 2005 1:23 pm

did you pull the ecu code?As for bucking and hard start, I'm thinking fuel starvation. you will need a pressure gage, mount it after the fuel filter where it gets ready to go into the p/s fuel rail.

pcv should have suction at idle and cruise. much less suction under heavy throttle.

Post by **DrewQ45** » Sun Nov 13, 2005 5:33 pm

Have'nt pull the code yet. Seems I've misplaced my FSM and don't know how without it. I pulled off the new fuel filter and blew through it to make sure I could. It was fine.

When I start the car and floor the accellerator while in park, the engine revs high/low as if someone is gunning and releasing in quick succession, sort of how a dragster would do at the starting line. This is with my foot planted on the pedal. One thing I might mention is that I have a crack in my exhaust pipe at the first join after the cats. This may have gotten worse recently but I can't see it being the cause. When my transmisison was replaced a few weeks ago, the mechanic mentioned that my TPS might be going bad. Do you think that could be the culprit?

Drew...

Post by **Raxephon** » Mon Nov 14, 2005 2:00 am

Post by **elwesso** » Mon Nov 14, 2005 5:14 am

Obviously the first thing to do is check the computer codes and go from there.....

Post by **Q451990** » Mon Nov 14, 2005 6:23 am

DrewQ45 wrote:When I start the car and floor the accellerator while in park, the engine revs high/low as if someone is gunning and releasing in quick succession

That really sounds like a MAF or it's connector to me. That's the symptom I had when one failed. I could start out with no power, then surge to 2K, then back to almost off, etc.

I would certainly check that... I really don't think it's related to your PCV valve either.

Heath

Post by **DrewQ45** » Mon Nov 14, 2005 7:45 am

elwesso wrote:Obviously the first thing to do is check the computer codes and go from there.....

Anlasak, you are the man!!! I'll try it when I get home.

Wess, I know, but I didn't have the steps. i sware im not mentally retarded!

Post by **elwesso** » Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:06 am

And im sure Ive *never* posted them on NICO beofre..... Just kidding man!

Post by **DrewQ45** » Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:48 am

You know Wess, you may be right regarding the MAF. When I change my oil, I always remove the filter from up top. To do so necessitates removing the airbox cover and laying the MAF aside with wires still attached. Maybe my disturbing it did something? I did wiggle the connector but not much.

I'll be sure to post my findings.

...Drew...

Post by **squeefoo** » Mon Nov 14, 2005 9:49 am

DrewQ45 wrote: When I change my oil, I always remove the filter from up top. To do so necessitates removing the airbox cover and laying the MAF aside with wires still attached. Maybe my disturbing it did something? I did wiggle the connector but not much....Drew...

I installed this... (hope this pic is better than the last one )

Post by **Q451990** » Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:25 pm

DrewQ45 wrote:You know Wess, you may be right regarding the MAF.

Who?

I was going to ask if you changed it from up top, but assumed that you didn't since you mentioned all of the other work from underneath the car.

Heath

Post by **DrewQ45** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 12:53 am

Q451990 wrote:
Who?

I was going to ask if you changed it from up top, but assumed that you didn't since you mentioned all of the other work from underneath the car.

Heath

Sorry Heath,

I can't keep track it seems....

I always accessed the oil filter from up top.... I've always found it easier than going underneath the car. That's why I use only the K&N oil filter. Easier to pull since it has a 1" nut on the end.

...Drew..

Post by **maxnix** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 4:25 am

DrewQ45 wrote:I always accessed the oil filter from up top.... I've always found it easier than going underneath the car. That's why I use only the K&N oil filter. Easier to pull since it has a 1" nut on the end.

...Drew..

And you have sufffered the consequences by doing it wrong.

Hope the K&N oil filters are way better than their air filters.

Post by **DrewQ45** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 4:31 pm

maxnix wrote:And you have sufffered the consequences by doing it wrong.

Hope the K&N oil filters are way better than their air filters.

maxnix wrote:
I wouldn't call it wrong since I've been doing it that way since 98'. When I find the cause of my problem, I'll be sure to post it but I'm not going to put the blame on my oil change method. Pulling the plastic belly pan is a PITA...that's just plain wrong for me. Takes 15 mins to change the oil my way.

K&N oil filters are excellent. I also used a K&N air filter for over 3 years with no problem. Q45tech's logic regarding the much greater filter area (many more pleats) convinced me that the dealer filter is better. As far as oil droplets being pulled off the filter, that part I'm not sold on. The force of suction would have to be concentrated in a much smaller area than the filter's size in order for it to lift the oil. Just MHO.

...Drew...

Post by **squeefoo** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 5:36 pm

DrewQ45 wrote:I wouldn't call it wrong since I've been doing it that way since 98'. When I find the cause of my problem, I'll be sure to post it but I'm not going to put the blame on my oil change method. Pulling the plastic belly pan is a PITA...that's just plain wrong for me. Takes 15 mins to change the oil my way. ...Drew...

Even less my way (see above) ...if I was in hurry

PS: That's the way I used to do it too.

Post by **DrewQ45** » Tue Nov 15, 2005 5:49 pm

Squ

squeefoo wrote:Even less my way (see above) ...if I was in hurry

PS: That's the way I used to do it too.

Squeefoo,

Where'd you get that nifty item?

Post by **elwesso** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 5:29 am

you can get a relocation kit for a 300ZX..... They use the same filters as the Q.

Post by **DrewQ45** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 7:11 am

DrewQ45 wrote:
maxnix wrote:
When I find the cause of my problem, I'll be sure to post it....
Broke down and took the car to T3. I'm pretty thorough when working on my car so it was really stumping me. Byron the tech diagnosed it and says I have a bad Crank Angle Sensor (Distributor). They have a used one there for $100 bucks plus a few hours labor. Seems there was a coincidence in the failure ocurring right after I had done all the work. I priced a distrib with Joe and he says $334 shipped. Having just installed a transmission, (actually two since the first was bad) it's a hard expense to swallow, however, I don't want to put in a used unit with unknown mileage. Decisions decisions... Does anyone have one of these thing with low miles out there? 90Q

...Drew...

Post by **squeefoo** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 11:10 am

squeefoo wrote:That's where mine is, I removed the AF box "chambers" and relocated the EVAP back about 2" or so and up to the ledge with the air box. So it's just behind the left radiator tank. I used Parker Hi-Temp Push-Lok 250 psi 1/2" hose. Just added a oil pressure gauge.

zerothread?id=17159From a thread about remote oil filters.

Just to finish explaining my setup: I used a Wix 24762 Remote Mount Kit, the threads are 3/4"-16 which lets me use a Wix 51562 Dims:OAL 5.842" Dia:2.95" Originally for use on Nissan diesel cars/trucks(81 - 86) The original threads on a Q are the same : 3/4"-16

Pic of oil gauge:

Post by **Q45tech** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 4:19 pm

"force of suction " you mean the force of the earth's atmosphere pushing the air into the air filter.

Post by **DrewQ45** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 1:27 am

Q45tech wrote:"force of suction " you mean the force of the earth's atmosphere pushing the air into the air filter.

Nah Tech,

I mean the air being sucked through the filter, past the MAF and into the intake as the throttle valve opens. Nothing to do with atmospheric pressure.

Post by **DrewQ45** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 3:00 pm

Issue resolved. Q back on the road now.

Thx for all the suggestions.
Modified by DrewQ45 at 8:14 PM 11/17/2005

Post by **maxnix** » Mon Dec 26, 2005 7:55 am

DrewQ45 wrote:Nah Tech,

I mean the air being sucked through the filter, past the MAF and into the intake as the throttle valve opens. Nothing to do with atmospheric pressure.

But the atmoshperic pressure is greater than the pressure inside the engine on the down stroke, hence the "sucking."

Need some help here...

PCV valve issue

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (GQ Jay)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (GQ Jay)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (anlasak)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (elwesso)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (elwesso)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (Q451990)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (maxnix)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (squeefoo)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (squeefoo)

Re: Need some help here... (Q45tech)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

Re: Need some help here... (DrewQ45)

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