BIKIROM Megaboard STEP BY STEP INSTALL

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
scarboroughdub

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THESE METHODS WORKED FOR ME (NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SREW UP)

well i have finished the installation and with minimal problems the car runs off the new board now, the current program that is in there is a stock na ka24de s14 bin with some tweaks from your trully.

i must say the car feels much smoother and more responsive then with the oem setup.

either way here is a step by step and what is needed to get it done.

tools needed-philips screw drivers (small and mediem sized)-fine tipped soldering iron (radioshack) no more than 30watts-0.8mm light duty solder (radioshack)-fine tipped knife-Household vacuum-drinking straw-electrical tape-wire strippers or sharp knife-steady hands

step 1 get your ecu from the car



step 2 remove both top and bottom ecu covers using the larger philips



step 3 removing solder from the 40x1 header on the ecu

yes this is a vacuum



what you will do is get your electrical tape and drinking straw and tape it to the nozzle sealing it air tight with the electrical tape.



be sure to also put some tape on the tip of the straw this will act as a seal and also prevent static arc's

i know i know everybody knows never use a vacuum around electronics well a traditional solder sucker wasnt cutting it and this method took me a total of 2 minutes.

once you have it rigged up stand the ecu up and from one side apply the straw with the vacuum on and from the other heat up the solder with the iron once the solder heats up and melts the vacuum will suck it up.

and here is the 40x1 header with all the solder removed and cleaned and ready for the next steps.

front of the board



back of the board



you may need to use the soldering iron afterwards to clean up and pick up some of the left over solder. make sure there are no shorts in between each hole.

step 4 inserting the 40x1 ribbon



this is a simple process just make sure each pin is going in straight and verify on the back side. this applies to both the biki board and ecu.

step 5 solder the 40 pins on both boards thats 80 pins



this is the most nerve wrecking moment the process

once the pins are sticking out what you want to do is place the 0.8mm solder at the base of the board where the pin comes out through the holes and while your holding your solder there touch the tip of the pin with the soldering iron. once you see the solder melting allow this to happen for about 2-3 seconds, what this does is it allows the solder to flow down the hole and builds on top giving you a proper connection. youll notice that from the other side the hole will also be filled with solder.

repeat this step 80 times and your almost there.

once your done your ribbon should be soldered on both the bikimegaboard and your ecu and should look like this.



step 6 soldering the consult wires.

the three wires that you are concerned about are the BLUE,GREEN,YELLOWwires. take them and run them through the side of the ecu to the under side, leaving the RED and BLACK wires up top.

you will solder these wires to the 3 pins on the underside of the ecu

Blue - pin 65 (TX out) Green - pin 64 (RX in)Yellow - pin 68 (SCI CLK)



the way i did this is stip only 2 mm of the wire tip to expose the bare wire and heat it with the soldering iron and then melt some solder onto the wire this will keep all the individual wires together. then heat up the pin on the ecu and dab a small amout of solder onto it, once done heat the solder up that you just dabbed and apply the wire to the melted solder once it cools your connected. be careful not th use too much solder.

The RED and BLACK wires get soldered to the pins on the top of the ecu

Red - 12v Pin 38 Black ground pin 106



this is simple just strip the wire and solder it on.

Step 7 checking everything

go over every solder point with your eye under a good light and with a magnifying glass to see if you might have solder 2 pins together accidentally if you were careful you woudnt have if you did then you better fix it now then later

this is very important and i suggest your triple check.

Step 8 securing the Megaboard to the ecu



this is simple just be snug with the screws make sure to not over tighten.

the usb port will not fit until you bend the red L.E.D over once done it will fit fine



THe Tools



and that is it now you can go fire up the car and it will still run on the internal rom until you remove jumper R001 on the backside of the board.



the reason you want to leave the jumper in place is so that you can copy your ecu's original program and save once youve done that you can remove the jumper by heating it with the iron and prying it away, at this point the ecu will read its bin file off the megaboard.

i have noticed that you need to have certain programs from microsoft to make the bikisoft software work properly so you will need

service pack 2.net framework version 2.0

.net downloadhttp://www.microsoft.com/downl...ng=en

and thats it if you got any questions let me know or you can check the manufacturers forums at http://forum.bikirom.com/



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Craving4Boost
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nice job man! very informative and detailed. i feel a sticky feeling eh moderators??

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virus77
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Well done, definatly sticky worthy material.

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JDMEnthused
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i second that motion

scarboroughdub

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thanks guys i never did a write up before but man it takes forever. almost an hour .

anyways im really impressed with this unit and now im just going to start playing with the actual thing. i have done lots of tuning with piggyback and standalone systems in the past so this is just a new toy to me.

hopefully once i understand all the features perfectlyi can make a software user write up.

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virus77
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report back with how the software and ecu works, im pretty interested in it.

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grimple1
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Now that is a write up! Great job.

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fiznat
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VERY nice work man!! PLEASE keep this up as you continue getting this board working! Of course, added to the stickey list .

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Craving4Boost
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scarbor - did you use your own ecu or you bought a spare one?

and this is off topic but i have your exact same remote control and keyboard lol...and is that a viewsonic monitor? your buttons look look mines

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AZhitman
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BEAUTIFULLY done, sir!

Again, we're out in front with the technical articles - This one's gonna be made permanent.

scarboroughdub

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craving4boost

i did not purchase a spare ecu i just made sure i did it right the first time so i could save myself that cost, but mind you i have soldering experience to a certain extent.

and yes that is a viewsonic 19"

AZHitman

thanks for the compliments.

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starscream6
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what exactly does this board do? and how much money did you save doing this your self?

nice write up, btw

1WheelWonder
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Excellent write, keep us updated.

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koukiKA240
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its a daughterboard, its exactly what JWT or enthalpy does to your ecu. This allows you to do it yourself, and tune it yourself. This one also has realtime consult port with "streaming" diagnostics. I put it in quotes because there are some issues with the software right now, but im confident that he will work out all bugs shortly, as he has already come a long way.~Sam

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Craving4Boost
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so if we open up a jwt tuned ecu it will have a daughterboard on it just like scarbor does?

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virus77
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no jwt and such use a daughterboard that has a chip, the difference in the new biki board is that it doesnt use chips, it uses internal memory so you could do tuning on the fly and it saves the maps in its memory rather than having to burn a new chip every time and put it in the ecu.

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Jookmasta
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great write up............i didnt know it would involve so much soldering. its amazing to see how much money u can save IF u can solder. nonetheless, good job and keep us updated with the progress. maybe some printscreen shots of the software would add to this thread? just a suggestion.

vvaffle
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scarboroughdub, have you ever used the solder absorbing ribbons. I would think that could work as well if you know how to use them well and make sure not to overheat anything. What do you think?

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hysteria
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sooo awesome man. i'm in line to get one once i finish my front end conversion.... but i don't even need it at this point because of the low boost setting i'm running.so a write up about your experiences with tuning it is next right? what kind of wideband, mafs, injectors, etc are you using? what are your targets at this point? can't wait to see what you can do with this thing.are you going to modify and make your own maps or play with ones other people have written?i've read a bunch about timing and fuel maps and setting them up with different mafs, injectors, etc, but i want to see what you are doing exactly.

dft24ds
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Ok so I understand how this thing works for the most part...but how does it compare to the AEM EMS? Similar as far as being able to do your own tune or does the EMS offer way more than biki?

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GhostDrifter
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So basically you can use bikirom to tune in real time while the car is acctually running? Also can you ajust the ignition timing as well. Is their any difference in the install if you have a 91 ECU. BTW nice write up very clear and informative.

scarboroughdub

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well yes you can tune in real time but the coding for that feature is not done yet should be done very soon

as for the s13 its actually easier to install since its easier to solder.

check out the bikirom forums for the s13 install instructions

http://forum.bikirom.com/viewtopic.php?t=68

pr240sx
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Excellent write upI will like to add a step before even reaching for the ECU

Disconnect battery for those desperates ones.

side waz
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Car: 1990 R32 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Type M, RB20det. Previous car 1991 240sx SE fastback, KA-T.

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Very nice work man!

This is something I would'nt attempt personally as I hate working with electronics. LOL I'm all thumbs with that.

Anyway Scarb, we're soooo close to each other we should hook up sometime and compare cars, setups and so on.

Let me know if your interested and again, GREAT job!

90SXSE KA24ET DREAMS
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first let me say this should be a ****ing sticky!!!! Second, was that an E ecu or DE?

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Craving4Boost
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90SXSE KA24ET DREAMS wrote:first let me say this should be a ****ing sticky!!!! Second, was that an E ecu or DE?
he has an s14

BillKlineVT
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umm, why?? you UNPLUG the ecu from the harness before you do this... battery has nothing to do with it

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Jookmasta
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+1 for BillKlineVT's post...................unplugging the battery isnt needed as im 100% sure we won't try to solder anything within the ecu while it is still attached to the plug let alone inside the car at all. print screen shots of your programming would be great

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deviousKA
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Seemless real time update while the car is running is going to require an extension to the bikirom, a certain type of eprom emulator.

The current update procedure is very nice and cuts down on tuning time, compared to swapping chips.

BTW, There are a couple new software/hardware platforms coming out by different authors soon. These will have similar specs including maptracing and real time update, using emulators.

Sram (NVSRAM) conversion with some coding modifications, using only the consult bus is the ultimate alternative.

DRIFTEADOR
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side waz wrote:This is something I would'nt attempt personally as I hate working with electronics.
for us electronically challenged folk, tv repair shops can do the work for some $20 in minutes. then all you would need to remove is two solder joints for the jumper

imho, this is the best engine managment for the average and even some of the higher end setups. this allows the stock ecu to handle everything closed loop related like starting, idle, part throttle temp/throttle enrichment or trimming, etc., and gives control over fuel/timing maps, rpm limit, speed governor. also, correct me if i'm wrong, this allows use of the consult port for inspection testing and keeps the check engine lights usable

great write up scarboroughdub, this will def give me a lot of confidence when the time comes


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