thought I should probably post this in this forum. After I replaced the TCS actuator in my 95 Q and bleed the system according to the FSM all appears to be good with the TCS system as no more buzzing noises and the TCS/SLIP light don't come on anymore.....but now I have the red parking brake light on and absolutely no brakes (brakes go 95% to the floor before it feels like there is any braking power and even then the braking is weak). I have never had this light on before except when I have the parking brake on. I checked the fluid levels and in both the TCS and brake resivior and all is good....so now what gives. I did everything accordingly to the FSM and all seems good (the brake booster test came out perfect and no leaks anywhere). My message center thing tells me that everything is okay. I am hoping that it is something simple to adjust, but have no idea where to begin.

Ugghh!!! Ayudame!!!

And to think...before I had no TCS but plenty of braking power....now I have TCS but no braking power. I want both at the same time.
Modified by rsiwicki at 8:02 AM 9/8/2005

drove the car into work this morning in my maddness...

I did find a leak by one of the fittings of the TCS unit so I cranked down the wrench and all is good now as the "red" brake like went off due to not losing any more fluid, but I still have a couple of problems.

1. The brake pedal is still very mushy going almost to the floor before the brakes start working.

2. I need somebody to look up in their FSM for me under Brakes-TCS system computer codes and tell me what code #7 referring to check. I left my FSM along side my bed side last night trying to trouble shoot my problems and would like to know what I need at the store before I go home so I don't have to make two trips.

3. I think the TCS actuator is now working correctly (no more buzzing sounds), but I am getting the SLIP/TCS/ABS light coming on after about driving for 5 minutes and thing it might be related to the ABS system since I let the actuator run bad for so long. I think the code #7 will help point me in the right direction next. Anybody with handy access to FSM to look up code #7 under the brakes/tcs system???

4. Lastly...I need somebody with a TCS car to contact me as there is a bolt just to the left of the actuator bleeder that has the letters marked "HZ" on it. The bolt is a threaded bolt but has a hole in the center of it where the brake fluid runs right through the bolt and the alignment of the bolt must be perfect so that the brake fluid line connects and the fluid flows through. It is difficult to type out what exactly I am referring to but if somebody could call me that would be great and I promise it would only take 5 minutes of your time. 305-790-1475

Modified by rsiwicki at 11:21 AM 9/8/2005
Modified by rsiwicki at 11:44 AM 9/8/2005

1. Did you bleed the rear brakes? as well as the TCS actuator? The rera brakes run in parallel to the TCS, so if you got air in with the TCS it will be in wiht the brakes... bleed the rear brakes...2. Stands for Right Rear wheel speed sensor...... Probably why your ABS light is on too, we can check ABS codes to verify this3. Related to number 2

Thanks a bunch Wes....do you have an ABS wheel sensor for sale along with a spare to buy just incase there is more than one sensor at fault? I just called Joe and he said all 90-96 sensors are good, but it must be a traction control car that it comes from as the sensors are different.

Also I checked too see if the ABS LED was blinking in the box next to the TCS computer and did not see it blinking so I think it should just be a wheel sensor (I hope).

The FSM makes no mention of bleeding the rear brakes when doing the TCS actuator replacement, but I will have them done at a brake shop easily enough.

Unfortunately...I am still a newbie and don't know how to bleed brakes perfectly...I have seen it done with my friends and pushed the gas pedal...but nothing more. I guess I will take it to a shop and have them bleed the rear brakes.

For anybody with a TCS system car....Uggh!!! I feel your or your mechanics pain trying to get this stuff sorted out.


Modified by rsiwicki at 12:55 PM 9/8/2005

Yeha if your not sure just have them bleed both the rear brakes...

Heres a little ditty to do the ABS self check.

rsiwicki wrote:Unfortunately...I am still a newbie and don't know how to bleed brakes perfectly...I have seen it done with my friends and pushed the gas pedal...but nothing more. I guess I will take it to a shop and have them bleed the rear brakes.

Did you bleed them alone? It's a 2-person operation because someone needs to close the bleeder before the other guy lets off the pedal--to keep air from getting sucked into the system. A: Mash pedalB: Open bleeder, let fluid outB: Close bleederA: Release pedalRepeatSpeed Bleeders are one-way check valves that only let fluid out and keep air from entering (kind of, anyway). Installing them at all locations is the only way to make it a one-man gig.

also, since the abs module is located on the pass side, i believe the correct bleed sequence is LR,RR,LF,RF. this takes some getting used to for us that grew up on 60's and 70's cars.

I have not bleeded the brakes at all....just the TCS actuator is the only thing I bleeded and the only thing that the FSM said to bleed. The brakes felt a little better this morning (I think) and I am now thinking it is just a bleeding issue. After I get a new rear speed sensor I will replace the speed sensors on the differential, fix the bushings, and then bleed the brakes and hope for a miracle that all is perfect and the car can go up for sale with everything working on it.

good news is that as I pulled out of into traffic this morning the TCS worked as the slip light came on killing power to the engine and applying the brakes which caught me by surprise as I have not had TCS working in about 6 months.

GQ Jay wrote:also, since the abs module is located on the pass side, i believe the correct bleed sequence is LR,RR,LF,RF. this takes some getting used to for us that grew up on 60's and 70's cars.

Yep thats right and I thought it was the other way..... INteresting.....

rsiwicki wrote:I have not bleeded the brakes at all....just the TCS actuator is the only thing I bleeded and the only thing that the FSM said to bleed.

Ah, well then don't waste your money taking it to a shop to bleed the brakes. The fluid circuits are entirely separate. That is, air cannot get into the brake lines from the TCS lines, unless there is something seriously wrong with the TCS actuator. Stay focused on the TCS hydraulic system.

well....they are somehow linked together as when I had the leak I had to fill up my main brake resivoir and not the TCS resivoir. Don't know why there would be 2 different resivoir's, but there is. I am awaiting the ABS rear speed sensors for which I will install along with new differential bushings and then bleed the brakes and hope that everything works correctly after this....otherwise car will go on sale really cheap as it ain't easy to sell a car with the brake pedal going almost all the way to the floor before they start to work.

You're sure the leak was on the TCS side of things? The 2 systems are supposed to be separate from a fluid standpoint. TCS only moves a piston (one per wheel)...it's like a secondary, mini master cylinder placed in series with the standard brake system. It responds to pressure from the TCS pump, which is transmitted by the TCS solenoids. The piston is sealed so that fluid on one side (TCS) does not come into contact with fluid from the other side (brakes). A leak on the TCS side would not affect fluid level on the brake side, unless there was a tear in one of the seals within the actuator, but even then, I would think both reservoir levels would drop.

I can tell you for certain that I had a buddy of mine pump the brakes and the brake line fitting closest to the battery was leaking badly with every pump of the brakes. I do understand that the system does somehow work independently, but how I have no idea. I have never ever had a problem with main brake resivior level and it was totally bone dry. The brakes are feeling a little better believe it or not after driving it last night as there were a few times that the brakes worked instantly and then still the other times that it would not work until pedal depressed pass half way point so after doing as mentioned above (flush) I am somewhat optimistic that my problems will be resolved. I know one thing for certain...the TCS works.

for every leak, you have air input. Do a full flush and bleed of the system and go from there.. Do a 2 man brake bleed..

I'm confused. I thought the leak was on a TCS line.

Finally....it is all back together and working correctly. Definitely my most frustrating DIYer project ever.

There are two regular brake lines that go through the TCS actuator and then there are two separate TCS only lines that are totally independent of the brake system. I had a leak still in one of my main brake lines that went through the TCS unit....small but none the less every other day I would have to fill up the brake resivoir. The fitting was on tight, but not tight enough so I cranked down all the fittings really snug and now no more leaks. I bleed the TCS system again and then my regular brakes. Finally...all is good and operating like it should with my abs pulsating the pedal, TCS working, and brake pedal feel is confidence inspiring in that it is not too mushy or firm not forgetting that after a 30 minute hard drive there is no leaks anywhere to be found.

Now on to my last project and thaht is to install the differential bushings which should be done on Wednesday morning that will eliminate the "clunk" in the rear.

Thanks all for your help again.....

Glad to hear it worked....another day another dollar..

...another dollar hell...how about a back ache, dirty hands, cuts all over the hands,.....etc. But in all I did get some satisfaction out of the whole experience knowing that with the help of you all I finally got the job done correctly.

Those scars be signs of love. I've got to swap an alternator this weekend, not looking forward to it. At least the Q tends to give some warning--LEDs came on but gave enough charge to get the car home without the weak battery warning. Same car just had an injector die 2 weeks ago. Thank goodness it was #2.