Getting the glove box off (the part is behind it) was a little different than the other thread that references the blower. In the 94 Q, there were six phillips head screws holding the glove box on. Two are behind two circular "plugs" and are easily seen after removing the plugs, which are inside of the glove box, in the front----one on each side.

The other four are at the bottom, and you have to pull the kick plate below the box to access them. After you remove all of these screws, you can just pull the box right out. There are a few wires, but they all are long enough so I didn't have to disconnect anything.

The screws holding the box are really --I mean really torqued tight. I had to go for a super large phillips head screwdriver with an oversized hande and lots of pressure to break them loose. The wrong screwdriver, IMO, will tear up the screw heads, so be careful.

After you get the box off, its a piece of cake to remove the part. It sits in a little metal bracket, held by two screws, and the bracket is held to the firewall by two screws. Take the whole bracket out, and then remove the part from the bracket before trying to remove the electrical plug.

Looking at the removed part, its my opinion that this part fails because of corrosion on its "heat sink" which consists of 17 metal spines that sit in the airflow to help keep the internal transistor cool. Probably if it were cleaned regularly, it would last longer, but at about $60 after NICO discounts, its not worth worrying about til it fails.

Anyway, my main reason for posting is that the removal procedure for my glove box seemed different from the other writeups.

Just like the failure mode of FPCU ..........motor [fuel pump] drawing more peak current than the transistors were designed [selected part number] to allow.

Cannot use an ammeter as that just shows the total average, not the individual commutator peaks or failures.

Discover the power of the button!

Regarding the failure cause, I have a 'scope, but now that the thing is back in there working, I' don't think I'll pull the glove box it to check it.

I do think that the formidable heat sink design suggests that the Darlington transistor setup produces one heckuva lot of heat. I haven't seen many heat sinks that elaborate. Mine was pretty covered with scale...not bad looking physically, but probably a significant diminution in heat transfer. Add that to the fact that the AC charge was down so that the heat sink didn't benefit from the cooling effect, and I'd guess its even money that the amplifier itself was the problem.

[Probably jinxing myself with that speculation.] In any case, thanks for the advice on the 'scope.

Like most circuits on cars you can easily view the current by substituting a wire current loop for the oem fuse and clamping the current probe around the loop.