*EDIT* J30 ignitor should be a plug and play deal for the rb25 s1 engine...repinning should not be done.

well since i sold my ignitor to a friend who was in need of one i was left without one for my rb20.off to the junkyard i go and i find a j30, to my suprize the ignitor that they use is much like the one for the rb20, however the simmilarities end there.while the j30 ignitor is smaller and much more compact than the stock rb20 as well as has the same plugs they are vastly diffrent.the pinouts on the ignitor are diffrent and even the plug pins are diffrent too.anyways if you need an ignitor heres how to get your car running with a bit of parts matching.go to nissan and order this part number:22020-97e25this should be the part number for the z32 ignitor retrofit kit, which has all the parts you need and will run you about 180ish (i paid 140 for mine with my awesome dealer discount).inside the kit you will find a wire harness, a metal plate, a few bags of bolts, a new ignitor and some zipties.bolt the ignitor to the metal plate so you wont loose the bolts, heres where it gets fun.the new style (j30) ignitor is much smaller and more compact than the old style (rb) ignitor with its compact form it takes up less space and is vastly improved over the old version.however in typical nissan fashion its not simple as plug and play, heres where it gets fun kids.on the harness you get in the little kit remove the grey 7 pin plug from the harness and when i say that i mean remove the pins from the plug.on the rb harness from the efi harness there will be a 6 wire plug on it going to the ignitor, one by one remove the wires from 6 pin plug and put them into the 7 wire plug in the same order skipping the middle hole.it should look like this (6 5 4 # 3 2 1) [#= blank hole] note that this is looking at the plug on the connection side.now look on the wire harness that you got in the little kit and remove the grey 6 pin plug, you will be using this in a second.go back to the rb and look at the coilpack harness you should find a 7 pin grey connector on it.take the 6pin connector you removed from the kit harness and swap the wires from the 7 pin connector onto the new 6pin plug, keep them in the same order starting from the left most wire if you are looking into the plugshould look like this (1 2 3 4 5 6) g [g is the one wire you leftout] agan note that you are looking at this on the connection side.by now you should be done swapping pins and should have one pin left over from the old 7pin connector, lengthen this one by a few inches and plug it into the blank spot on the new 7pin connector (the one from the efi side).bolt the ignitor down to the rb with the plugs on the correct sides (i actualy bolted it down backwards the first time *doh*) and plug the connectors into the ignitor.now if you did this correctly the car should crank over and run with no problems whatsoever, however if the ignitor gets hot or you see smoke turn off the car and recheck the wiring.

heres the theory behind all this.start with a few pinouts here.old style ignitor7pin is output to coils with pinout of 123456g6pin is input to ignitor with pinout of 123456

newstyle ignitor7pin is input to ignitor with pinout of 123g4566pin is output to coils with pinout of 123456

as you can see simply plugging in the ignitor as is would imediately fry something in the ecu, i tired using this ignitor by simply moving the ground pin on the coil pack harness to the center postion.since transistors are simply diodes when i went to crank the car voltage was going the wrong way so there was no spark.however this caused the ignitor to get _VERY_ hot and burn my hand, but i lucked out and didnt fry anything except perhaps the ignitor that i was trying to make work.repinning the harness to accept the new ignitor works, my engine starts fine with it as it is now.

if you are feeling cheap or are low on funds here is a slightly better alternative.go to nissan with this part number22435-48p00this is the mounting plate for the ignitor, then go to a junkyard and scope out a j30 and remove the ignitor and either pay for it or some how loose it in your pants (not that i condone this).then all you will have to do is remove the plugs from your harness and swap as described above but be sure to keep track of which wires went where as a crossed wire could cause a weird firing sequence.hope this helps some one, i will post a pic later of mine to help clarify the instalation.

*ADDENDUM*booztd 3 was kind enough to do a redux of this except with pics...heres the link.zerothread/251366

AWESOME INFORMAITON!! im reccomending this gets added to the sticky.

Your effort is amazing and the instructions arer easy to follow. Good job! Deffinantly should be added to the sticky list. You have my vote deffinantly.

Vote here even though I have a series II. Very good information your hard work should pay off with a sticky!-Alex

Thats great!! infoThis might help me out in a little while dont know if mine is good or not

Carl... You are definitely a technical wizard! We all appreciate you finding new ways to adapt parts and make thing work.

Not trying to devalue your work here.. but. I bought an ignitor pack off ebay for $50. I see them there often. Wouldn't it just be easier and less expensive to watch ebay for used ones?

Is there a benefit to using a j30 ignitor? better performance? You mention $140 for a retrofit kit.

Am I reading this wrong...

Carl H for President .

you are right about finding the ignitor on ebay but i chose to go this route for a few reasons.one reason is because with a new ignitor you are gaurenteed that it will work, as risk you take with used parts.another is that the ignitor that is used on the rb20 is prone to failure due to heat, talk to any z32 guy and ask him if his ignitor has burnt out and im sure he will grimmace and start mumbling nasty things about it.the new style (j30) is designed to not only replace the old style but reduce its size as well as fight parts failure.you dont have to get the retrofit kit, i got it because it has the mounting plate as well as the ignitor and conversion harness.you can order the ignitor seperately using the part # 22020-97e11 which is the new ignitor for the z32, i would imagine that it crosses over to infinti but im not sure.

*giving carl a pad on the back*

heres a pic of the ignitor.

Thread has now been added to favorites, thanks Carl!

Awesome! I'd rather pay you about $225 or w/e u charge and let you do mine. Only cause 1) you know what your doing and 2) I'll somehow screw it up.

Awesome writeup Carl I have bookmarked this allready.

GOOD FIND CARL!!!!!!!

Anybody notice that this thread is 2 years old?

I'm not disputing the brilliance of the work.. but I do lol when these old threads get dug up.

wow, what a good write up... why wasn't this stickied?? I don't have a 20 but i'm sure this could have helped a lot of people that didn't know about it, like myself.

I find it hilarious that I posted in it exactly two years after the last post. Carl linked it to me so I didn't even notice the date. lol

Solved my miss, thanks :-)

And the thread wins yet again!

Oldie but goldie, this should be sticky :-)

How do you test to see if your ignitor is bad. I have a miss and have tried everything and this is my next best bet.

which ever cylinder you have a miss on look at a wiring diagram and see if that wire has a ground signal going into and out of the ignitor. Have you checked the coil itself to see if it isnt bad?

Is there a part number for that bracket seperately? I have a Z32 ignitor and I would rather have an OEM one to keep it from bouncing around.

~Alex

wow, this is just what the doctor ordered.

so does ANYONE have the wiring diagram for the s1 rb25, so i can wire in some Ls coils in and remove my ignitor ship? i'm so freakin lost on this, thanks in advance