sr20det timing

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diosr20
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 5:39 pm

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i set the timing on my s13 redtop sr20 to 15 btdc and it works fine for about 5 minuets then start to stutter at high rpms (above 5000 rpms) so i go back to check my timing and its all off

the only other thing i could think of would be a bad sensor or injector or somthin i dunno please help i havent been able to drift for 2 weeks


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9240sx
Posts: 2676
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 4:06 am
Car: What i believe to be the cleanest s13 in the world.

SR20DET + RS*R-Apexi-Nismo-Trust-HKS= 100% pure love
Location: New Mexico

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whats your idle at?

diosr20
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 5:39 pm

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850 - 900 ish

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need2drift
Posts: 409
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 1:39 pm
Car: 89 s13 sr20det powered coupe

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where are you getting the timing light signal from????I just did my timing again last night and when I got the signal from the black loop on the spark plug harness my timing was way off. I got better signal from puttin a piece of spark plug wire in between the #1 plug and coilpack and gettin the signal from that.... just a thought good luck!!!!!

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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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are you disconnecting your TPS plug when you set the idle speed? Sometimes the computer will fight you if you leave the TPS plugged in while doing idle and timing.

Next, are you making sure that the car is warmed all the way to operating temperature? The computer will be in cold start mode until the gauge has gotten to operating temp.

Third. Taking a coil pack and shoving a sawed off plug wire in it achieves better results than the inductive loop on the harness in my experience. The service manual even says to check it with a piece of plug wire. All you need is one plug wire, cut off the end that would normally go onto the distributor, and shove the cut off end up into the coil pack, and then put the spark plug end on the plug.

diosr20
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 5:39 pm

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i got my signal from the wires leading into the #1 coilpack yes i unpluged the tps and warmed it up set it to 2nd notch on the left ( ive heard 2nd on the right to ) it runs almost perfect for about 5 - 10 mins then starts to bog at about 5000 rpms im not sure how to describe it but ill do my best its like it looses all power and starts poping, how do u check your ecu for codes

thanks for your help

also it does good on half to 3/4 throttle but at WOT bogs and sutch

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9240sx
Posts: 2676
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 4:06 am
Car: What i believe to be the cleanest s13 in the world.

SR20DET + RS*R-Apexi-Nismo-Trust-HKS= 100% pure love
Location: New Mexico

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You want to set it at the 2nd mark from the right thats 15BTDC,It sounds like you have it at TDC now.Make sure you have a nice soild ldle at 800 give or take 50rpms.Its a little hard to get it just right,Iv been having some problems with my timing,But i think it cause my idle is a little high 900rpm.

cvex
Posts: 73
Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2004 5:16 pm

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tenkawa_akito wrote:are you disconnecting your TPS plug when you set the idle speed? Sometimes the computer will fight you if you leave the TPS plugged in while doing idle and timing.

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I dont know how you guys do it with the tps disconnected, but everytime I disconnect it, the idle would jump to around 1,500 rpm and will not drop down enough to around 750-900 rpm to adjust timing. I even turned down the idle control screw bottom out and still didnt drop. Someone said to wait for a few mins and it will drop, I waited 10-15 min, long enough for the ecu to throw the tps code.

diosr20
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 5:39 pm

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i checked the ecu for codes and it was throwing out code 55"55 - Other Malfunction. CONSULT Terminal Required " wtf does this mean

rudee023
Posts: 1014
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 9:52 am
Car: '03 Infiniti Q45
Location: LA

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Code 55 means everything is o.k. as far as the sensors the ecu checks during the diagnostic.

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got2b240
Posts: 475
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 4:50 am
Car: 91' RPS13 = GT28R, 525cc, Z32 Mafs & SAFC, Blitz EXST & FMIC, Silvia VLSD
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ok fellas here is your solution

1- warm up your car to operating temp2- Shut your car off then pop your hoood and unplug the TPS and the IACV plug that has the light blue wire stemming off of it (this will fix your problem with your idle when u try to set the idle and timing3- Adjust that throttle plate screw so that it just keeps the throttle pressed by like the tiniest amount (1mm) cause you wana achieve good vaccuum at idle4-Have that contraption ready with the coilpack and the wire going to the plug ready5-START YOUR CAR, then adjust the IACV so you achieve 800rpm's + or - 506-Let the car's idle stableize itself and you can also tell with the timing gun when it stabilizes, just make sure idle is around 800.7-Turn your car off for 30 seconds, and restart it again and some reason it makes the idle more stable, i have noticed this many times8-Grab the signal off of that makeshift wire from in b/w the coil and the spark plug, and you should be ready to loosten your CAS and turn it to adjust it so the needle right above the crank pulley reads the second notch from the far right (15BTDC)

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got2b240
Posts: 475
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 4:50 am
Car: 91' RPS13 = GT28R, 525cc, Z32 Mafs & SAFC, Blitz EXST & FMIC, Silvia VLSD
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also make sure your MAFS is clean, you can try unplugging the mafs only, leave everything else plugged in before you do this process and see if your idle behaves better now, but youhave to plug it back in if its fine or clean/replace it if its bad (youll know if its bad if unplugging it give you better idle)

so fix this first if its the problem then try my list above

MrFairlady
Posts: 66
Joined: Wed Apr 11, 2007 3:40 pm
Location: Charlotte,N.C

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subscribed

sorry to bring this back...but I'm @ work and can't save it to my Fav's.Having trouble w/ my timing.

gonna try the jumper deal instead of the wire on the coil harness.

aren't you su[pposed top Rev the engine 3 times to 3,000rpms as well??so much diff info but this seems helpfull


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