I have window issues. Help!

[louiegz]

Hey guys, I'm having problems with my drivers side window. I think it's off its track, but first I have to remove the door panel to see what's up. I was looking at the FSM to see how to remove it so I have an idea on how to do it, but I was wondering if anyone had some tips on the easiest way to do it. What tools do I need? Once I’m in there, what should I be looking for?

[Jeff Williams]

Look for posts about replacing the window regulator. It is a simple process, to get to the window.

1. Slide arm rest out (this may be stuck, and require some pressure).2. EASILY remove window switch plastic cover (It pops off, and breaks VERY easily).3. Remove 3 screws holding door panel to frame.4. Pop all plastic clips holding perimeter of door panel (be easy - take your time).4a. Disconnect all electrical connections carefully.4b. Remove the Bose speaker assembly & disconnect.5. Peel back clear plastic cover and gooey cement (do not tear or cut plastic - be patiend, the goo will peel off the steel).6. There are about 6 screws that hold the regulator and motor assembly to the door, and 2 that hold it to the glass frame.

Remember, the car is over 10 years old and plastic gets brittle. Replacement parts are expensive.

More than likely, the regulator is bad. $85 from everythinginfiniti.com Ask for Joe. Tell them you are from NICO.

There is a link to a J30 site, where there are pictures. The doors are basically the same, and go apart/together the same.

[vicQ45]

i ahd to replace a regulator on my max and my Q. it's pretty easy and straight forward. funny thing. my OEM regulator for the max was $40 and for teh Q it was $85. :P

[JedCoop]

On my first Q I had to fix 3 out of four window regulators, and then another on my second Q (all pre '93) I bought the first regulator, but after seeing it did not fix the design flaw (a stress concentration in the nylon) and being impatient I chose to fix the old one.

I don't have pictures but here is a rough idea of what I did.

In the path of where the wire that pulls the "trolley" on the regulator up and down I drilled and thread a hole. It was positioned so that when all is completed it left enough clearance for the bolt, etc. you are about to insert.

I put a flush-head bolt through the hole tightenned it so it would not move.

Then I used a hacksaw to cut a notch into the threads of the bolt large enough to get most of the wire inserted into it.

After that a nut was tightenned on to hold the wire firmly to the "trolley".

Finally I cut off the extra threaded bolt beyond the nut

It has been many years since I've done this. I may have put on a second nut to make sure the nut doesn't move in the future. - I used thinner square nuts. Or maybe in the process of cutting off the extra bolt I sufficiently mashed the exposed side of the nut that it became locked to the bolt thread.

$85 for a new regulator isn't a bad route to take either.

[Jeff Williams]

Inoticed the new regulators that I got through Joe were much more heavyduty than the originals. I am sure they will last much longer than the 10 years the first ones lasted.

[louiegz]

Look for posts about replacing the window regulator. It is a simple process, to get to the window.

1. Slide arm rest out (this may be stuck, and require some pressure).2. EASILY remove window switch plastic cover (It pops off, and breaks VERY easily).3. Remove 3 screws holding door panel to frame.4. Pop all plastic clips holding perimeter of door panel (be easy - take your time).4a. Disconnect all electrical connections carefully.4b. Remove the Bose speaker assembly & disconnect.5. Peel back clear plastic cover and gooey cement (do not tear or cut plastic - be patiend, the goo will peel off the steel).6. There are about 6 screws that hold the regulator and motor assembly to the door, and 2 that hold it to the glass frame.

Remember, the car is over 10 years old and plastic gets brittle. Replacement parts are expensive.

More than likely, the regulator is bad. $85 from everythinginfiniti.com Ask for Joe. Tell them you are from NICO.

There is a link to a J30 site, where there are pictures. The doors are basically the same, and go apart/together the same.

Great directions Jeff, thanks for the help. I popped off the door panel. No problem. I do have a tip for number 2. I found that the best way to go at it is to pry from the front top part of the panel. Once you get that loose, then you can pull forward and out and you shouldn't damage the panel. I took pics of the panel clips and other parts. I allways felt that it helps if you know how the clips look before you try to pull something out. Hopefully it will help the next person doing this. I will post these pics tonight.

I stopped today because I'm stuck. 4b. Removal of the bose speaker. There were these 4 big screws around the plastic base of the speaker that I removed but the speaker way still stuck. Am I missing some other screw? The second problem is that I can't seem to get the window pushed down enough to get to the screws that mount the regulator to the glass. I can only get the glass down half way. If I take off the mounting screws for the regulators and motor, I think I can get the glass low enough to get to the screws. Is there another way to get to those screws or will I have better access once I get the speaker off?

[louiegz]

I posted the pics. Here's a link to my gallery.

http://nissaninfiniticlub.net/...10825&=

[911/Q45]

The speaker may just be stuck due to the old sealant. A careful pry should get it loose and give you the access you need.

[natsoundup]

Can you get the regulator and motor out with the window in the up position?

[911/Q45]

It's been about 5 years since I did one of these, but it seems like the window needed to be in the up position to work on the regulator.

[louiegz]

I think the thing is that you need it down to get the 2 screws that hold the glass to the regulator. Then you pull the glass up for pulling out the regulator.

[gniknave]

http://www.carstereohelp.com/s...e.htm

[louiegz]

Well, I'm done. The window works now. I must say, it's easier than I thought. Once again, thanks to NICO for providing the info and the forum to ask people the right people questions.

Inoticed the new regulators that I got through Joe were much more heavyduty than the originals. I am sure they will last much longer than the 10 years the first ones lasted.

Yes Jeff, the new regulators are more heavy duty than the old ones, especialy the plastic where the cable ride on in the ends. I have more pics. For those who don't know how all these parts look like.

The old one...

http://nissaninfiniticlub.net/...age=1

http://nissaninfiniticlub.net/...age=1

The new one...

http://nissaninfiniticlub.net/...age=1

http://nissaninfiniticlub.net/...age=1

The PITA part of the whole job was that the window wouldn't go down far enough to get good access to the 2 bolts that hold the glass. The old regulator would get stuck going down. When I pulled out the old unit, I noticed that the wire was stuck on the gear. Putting in the new one was easier. I like the fact that 2 of the bolt holes for the regulator and two holes for the motor that were keyed, so when I put in the new unit. I'd put those bolts on so the unit can hang before you tighten it. Alignment is important. When I first tightened it, the glass moved slower that normal and closed a little low. I loosened everything up and pushed it up. It worked fine after that. I figured I probably saved about $300 in dealer labor, so this is good.

[Jeff Williams]

Awesome!. Sorry, I was going by memory, and left out a couple pointers. As soon as I read your notes, it all came back to me.

I always think of taking pictures after I get everything back together. "Man, I should have taken a few pictures!"