FSM pictures from an s14 sr.
1. Please refer to the cautions and procedures.
After finishing this procedures you will end up with this (or similar).
Tasks: Many things can come from removing the head.
-Rebuilding head and or block
-Inspection of all internal parts and engine
-Replacing seals, parts, upgrading, etc.
Tool Required and optional:
Tools you will and may need depending on how you go about this like removing whole engine..
`Hammer
`flathead screwdriver
`screwdriver
`8,10,12,13,14,17,19,24,27 mm
`10mm allen socket (1/2 prefered)
`torque wrench (1/2 prefered)
`ratchet 3/8, 1/2
`set of wrenches
`wd40
`penetrating spray
`adjustable wrench
`breaker bar 1/2
`impact gun 1/2 (for crank pulley bolt)
`magentic wand
`tray
Maybe other things needed but Im only doing steps of removing head.
Time: Depending on how fast you work, and skill wise, it should take you about 30min to 3hrs. Note that having the engine out makes it much easier and cuts down the time. This DIY is done with the engine on a stand.
Procedures:
I have the pictures here:http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c140/mr3kgt/. If you are planning to do this than I should not have to go into great details about the pre removal parts and liquids as this takes a bit more mechanical skills. For bolts, screws, and washers, I highly recommend you put them back as soon you remove the parts to keep track of them. Make sure to keep everything in order the way you took them out.
FSM pictures from an s14 sr.
1. Please refer to the cautions and procedures.
After finishing this procedures you will end up with this (or similar).
Be very cautious and take your time as you dont want to mess anything up. Also I been reading up on peoples past experience, if you can't remove something, then your either missed a step or you skipped a step, so don't just yank, hammer, call it quites, etc. and hope for the best. Instead take a step back and read.
2.
If you plan to remove your front cover (aka oil pump and or change the front main seal: Make sure to loosen the crank pulley bolt with a impact gun first before setting it to TDC and having the chain positioned correctly. I highly recommend doing it with a impact gun especially if the engine is on a stand. If it still has the transmission, you just have to put it into gear or pull the ebrake up)
-You want your camshaft sprocket and chain matting mark lines up as shown in the fsm and in the pictures.
-At this point, you do not want to turn your crank again.
-Use the 27mm socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. Turn in clockwise (to the right) motion until you have set it to the marks on the sprockets matting marks and chains silver links and have your No.1 piston on TDC (2nd line going from the left).
-Best way to check is to have good lighting and looking back on the fsm. It takes some people a couple turns or even 60, it all depends. It should turn out like this. Remember not to turn your crank pulley or cams seperately.
3.
-Remove the bolts on the chain tensioner.
-Slowly pull on the tensioner. You may have to use a flat head but be very careful as it will snap back real fast causing the chain to snap.
-Now remove the Crank Angle Sensor(Camshaft position sensor) -CAS. Its held by 2 screws (one of mine was missing... sigh).
-Now like the tensioner, slowly and carefully pull it out
-Remove the timing guide plate
4.
-Remove the camshaft sprockets. Im not sure what size the bolts were as I resorted to using an impact gun and socket (no number on it). Its 2X.
-Use an adjustable wrence or if you have the suitable size wrench to hold it on the hexegon portion. Make sure its slim as I didn't have one.
-As the fsm's next step is to remove the cams than turbo, you should have already removed the turbo along with the intake manifold beforehand.
-Another way to go about this is you can remove the cams without removing the sprocket. Just loosen the cam caps as shown in the FSM and it should pop off with a bit of force and you just remove the entire thing. Makes things easier to remove and install.
5.
-Remove the camshaft brackets bolts' in order as shown in the FSM or in the picture with I believe a 10 or 12mm.
-Remove the tubes and baffle plate
Should turn out like this were you can see the rocker arms and the HEAD BOLTS!!!
6.
-Remove the outer bolts which is 4 in total with a 10mm and 12mm socket, extension and ratchet.
far left near the oil catch can
Below the water neck
2 in front of the chain
7.
Probably the most difficult part in terms of bolts. This suckers are on tight and prepare to have an extra 10mm allen socket (thank you lifetime warranty).
-Make sure to remove this in order and to do it in steps. This is where the torque wrench comes into play. I believe that this head bolts are on at around 120ft. lbs. You want to do it in 2-3 steps so for example start at 120, than 90, 60, 30 ft. lbs and remove. This all depends on how tight this are as if you check the fsm torque ratings for installing them, there only at 78ft lbs after all the other steps. Try different methods to break this suckers loose. Ive read people using hammers, breaker bars, and torque wrenches that all work. Do not do this with an impact gun.
8. I used a screwdriver to hold the chain from falling, it is not necessary so just let it fall down the front cover and a peg that prevents the chain from falling off the crank sprocket. Make sure everything is clear as its not attached to both head and block (for example. heater hose for both thermostat attaches to the block and another neck hose attaches to the head).
-Tilt the head left and right carefuly as you want to slide the head off the chain guides that get in the way. I didn't have anyone to take pictures of that but you will see what I mean.
Place it on a flat surface with rags, pillows, blankets, etc so that you dont have it scratched, warped or anything bad. Don't flip it upside down unless you remove all the rocker arms. If you remove them, keep them in order the way they came out.
Thank you and goodluck.
If you use this pictures or any information, please contact me first at zabalalala@yahoo.com for permission.
Edited: Thanks to
- Taesoo aka ILikeMy240sx
Modified by mrzabala at 12:38 PM 6/1/2007
Modified by mrzabala at 8:51 AM 6/24/2008
Post Title: Re: DIY: SR20DET Head Removal by Mrzabala (mrzabala)
Posted by: mrzabala at 2:20 PM 5/31/2007
looks like you manhandled your block. 
Post Title: Re: (jdm_master_X)
Posted by: adrians_s13 at 12:27 AM 6/1/2007
quick comments. Just wondering why you wrote to remove your crank pulley... for removing the head. Also you can remove the cams without removing the sprocket. Just loosen the cam caps as shown in the FSM and it should pop off with a bit of force and you just remove the entire thing. Makes things easier to remove and install.
And for those of you without a messed up fron cover, you can let the chain go (let it fall down the front cover) because at the bottom of the front cover, there is a little peg that prevents the chain from coming off the crank sprocket. Ive swapped many many many heads and everytime Ive had no problem with it letting it fall down.
Post Title: Re: (ILikeMy240sx)
Posted by: mrzabala at 12:17 PM 6/1/2007
| Quote, originally posted by ILikeMy240sx » |
| nice write up.... quick comments. Just wondering why you wrote to remove your crank pulley... for removing the head. Also you can remove the cams without removing the sprocket. Just loosen the cam caps as shown in the FSM and it should pop off with a bit of force and you just remove the entire thing. Makes things easier to remove and install. And for those of you without a messed up fron cover, you can let the chain go (let it fall down the front cover) because at the bottom of the front cover, there is a little peg that prevents the chain from coming off the crank sprocket. Ive swapped many many many heads and everytime Ive had no problem with it letting it fall down. |
Will have more DIYS to come.
Post Title:
Posted by: Gspec at 8:51 PM 6/1/2007
cam sprockets are 24mm IIRC.
those 10mm hex head sockets break a lot. i usually go through at least one per head. anyone have any reccomendations for "beefier" units? i always break the craftsman ones, go get another :P
and for the head bolts, i use a 1/2" breaker bar and a AE86 front strut insert (pipe) to double up with. get's my 1/2" bar to about 3' long but i would reccomend longer or at least a friend to hold the motor from spinnning and turning and stuff.
Post Title: Re: (austins240)
Posted by: mrzabala at 4:17 PM 7/30/2007
| Quote, originally posted by sbird1 » |
| I'm in the process of doing my head gasket and I can not tell you how valuable this was to me today. Thanks a ton for a great write-up! |
| Quote, originally posted by positronone » |
| Man this rocks, very detailed! I might actually do this thing now. |
| Quote, originally posted by Kenrik » |
| Do you have to take out the cams?? |
| Quote, originally posted by nizmoguy » |
| hey i have a aftermarket tach and wanted to know if you know what color wire on the distributor or ecu does it hook up to a ka24de |
this is just what i was looking for since i will be swapping out my Head gasket and putting in ARP headstuds this weekend.
Thanks again
Post Title: Re: (Zilvia33)
Posted by: Zilvia33 at 11:15 PM 4/24/2008
took about an hour and half to get the head off and every thing.
put the bolts in, had slight trouble getting the head gasket on....but finally got it on. then the bad
Trying to get the head back on, we snapped one of the timing chain guides (the one on the exhaust side) so my weekend has just been shot down the drain......
dammit
Post Title: Re: DIY: SR20DET Head Removal by Mrzabala (mrzabala)
Posted by: WoolyS14DET at 9:42 AM 4/25/2008
Post Title: Re: DIY: SR20DET Head Removal by Mrzabala (WoolyS14DET)
Posted by: sbird1 at 1:45 PM 5/31/2008
| Quote, originally posted by sbird1 » |
| Uhhh.... why are the pics gone? |
Yea......I am wondering the same thing. Did anybody else save them? Any hopes on getting these back up? 
Post Title: Re: DIY: SR20DET Head Removal by Mrzabala (NismoGriff)
Posted by: sbird1 at 2:00 PM 6/8/2008
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