Some Memorial Day updates to the 450

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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SuperHatch
Posts: 907
Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 8:20 am
Car: 96 TLC

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Well, I've had these parts stacking up for the Z and never had any time to get to installing them. I took this week off of work to do some work on my toy, with memorial day and my compressed work schedule (every other fri off) I only needed to use 3 days of leave. I love 9 days off for 3...

Anyway, besides the pile of parts, I've also had some minor issues with the 450ZX that have only popped up after driving it for some time. Some things I predicted might be problems, others I never saw coming. These included PS fluid flow issues (predicted this), overheating issues (though there was a chance but with the uber-rad I thought I was safe), and front swaybar clearance issues (thought I was in the clear, guess not).

So for the past couple days I've been tending to these items.



First item tackled was power steering. The fluid flow issue was pretty simple. For those that don't know, the 300ZX VG PS Pump is on the passenger side of the engine bay, and so is the reservoir. On the VH45, the pump is on the drivers side. My original setup included a long stretch of 5/8" power steering hose that ran down from the Z32 reservoir, under the motor, and over to the VH pump. No, this was not a pretty solution, I knew it wasn't a pretty solution, but I was in a situation where I needed to get the car on the road so I dealt with it. The problem was that the pump was getting starved for fluid with this setup, and I was having intermittent issues. The solution was to relocate the reservoir to the drivers side. I used an S14 OEM reservoir and bracket. Unfortunately there was a conflict between the reservoir and the fuse box, so I relocated that as well. I also added a small transmission cooler as a PS cooler.







The PS lines needed to be run externally simply due to space restrictions. I've checked for tire interference and there is over 1" of clearance to these lines throughout all suspension travel.



The fuse box relocated without any wires needing to be extended with the exception of the PS Variable Assist Solenoid Plug and the front drivers side ABS Sensor Plug. Since I have HIDs the head light wires were long enough.

The cooling issues I've had are only at idle, stopped, in hot weather, and when at full throttle in hot weather for extended periods of time. At idle, basically my fans can't keep up. The original cooling setup included my custom Howe radiator and two 10" slim fans setup in push mode. There was simply NO clearance for any fan to be used as a puller. I think the problem has come down to the fans having too low of a flow rate, being too inefficient as pushers, and the radiator being too thick to push the air through. My solution was to modify the radiator support to allow the top of the radiator to tilt forwards and the allow my fans to fit as pullers.

Old Setup:



New Setup:







A little tight here:



I'm hoping that this will help with the cooling in traffic. Turing on the heat before was enough to get the situation under control, so this small improvement may be enough. Also, moving the fans to the rear will allow better airflow when moving and should help my full throttle issues. I also plan on building some ductwork to direct more air into the radiator, but that's not done yet.

Th hood still closes on the factor latch with this modification. I originally purchased some Aerocatch hood pins since I thought I would need to remove the factory latch, but to my surprise all is well. I still need to remount the Air Bag Sensor, but thats not too difficult after everything else that's been done.

The new parts installed so far are my complete Powertrix coilovers and control arms. I got the UL Race coils and all of the adjustable arms during the first group buy earlier this year.





I still have to tend to the front swaybar and the cooling ductwork. I also have a Stillen GTZ front lip to install as well as some SPL subframe spacers. Once I get the car on the ground I'll set the ride height. The plan with the front swaybar is to do a custom rear mount setup with an OEM Q45 bar. This bar is slightly larger than the stock TT bar, but I also have a stock TT rear bar to install so hopefully I don't upset the balance too much. Not many other options at this point.

Anyway, I'll update as things progress... later!


newbissan-tech
Posts: 475
Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2008 3:31 pm
Car: 96 vh45 swapped 240sx SOLD, 2011 frontier pro4x SOLD, 08' Altima SOLD, 2006 TITAN, 2012 SUBURBAN FOR THE FAM.

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nice work man looks good! i wish i still had my z, i went to college with a guy who was in the process of doing a vh swap and that was in 00'-02'! things have come along way since then! anywho nice car!

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elwesso
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Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT
Location: Indiana
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so does this mean you decided to keep the Z but ditch the 240?

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SuperHatch
Posts: 907
Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 8:20 am
Car: 96 TLC

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elwesso wrote:so does this mean you decided to keep the Z but ditch the 240?
I guess you could say that. The wife tells me to keep one, since this one runs, it gets to stay. If someone made the right offer I'd still sell it, but it's unlikely in this economy.

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SuperHatch
Posts: 907
Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 8:20 am
Car: 96 TLC

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Got the rear mount front swaybar finished yesterday. I used an OEM G50 Q45a front swaybar and made new mounts. The Q45A front bar is 1mm thicker than the OEM Z NA bar and its arms are shorter, so I'm venturing to say its stiffer, but there is no way to know for sure. Maybe tech knows the specs on the stock bar. Anyway, here are some pics...

Bar Installed, lots of clearance...



Drivers side mount, there are Qty 4 #14 machine screws on each side of the mounting block. I may add more...









Passenger Side Mount... As you can see this mount is offset due to the width difference on the Z bar. The Z end link is also flipped to the other side of the bar end. I was able to pick up two OEM mounting holes in the frame, the rest are #14 screws like the drivers side.









Now there is one issue with this setup. At full lock on a right turn, the tire rubs the bar on the passenger side. The steering stop is touching at the same time, I am planning on installing 15mm wheel spacers left over from the S14 on the front of the Z which will give me more than enough clearance. And remember, I'm running 18x8.5" wheels with 245/45-18 tires, so with narrower stuff there wouldn't be an issue either.

I am also going to look into having some custom end links made that will allow me to shift the bar to the drivers side by 1/2". The OEM Z LCAs have the swaybar mounting holes already in them just like the Q LCAs, so this was easy. The problem is that the blade of the swaybar is directly in line with the holes on the LCA, whereas the endlinks want it to be offset slightly. If I make an offset endlink that should solve the problem. Thats for another day though...

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SuperHatch
Posts: 907
Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 8:20 am
Car: 96 TLC

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Did a lot more work to the Z over the last few weeks, just haven't bothered updating much...

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.



Rear Lip before rolling...

Applying some heat...

Lip after rolling...

Tire clearance...

Getting ready to do the front...

Stock lip...





Drivers side done, not happy with the way it came out, oh well...

inside of lip...

Pass side, much much better...

Inside of lip...

H&R Wheel spacers, 15mm...

Good swaybar clearance now...

Clearance to the new PS line setup...

Some more changes, just buttoning things up...

Another look...

Fan clearance...

Oil filter mount, MADE IN USA!!! Holy Crap!





Shielded feed line...

Fittings on housing...

Fuse box and feed line...

PS Cooler and return line...

Added another vent to the surge tank...

The added vent line goes to these two fittings, I don't get air bound anymore.



Thats it for now...

T45
Posts: 1493
Joined: Fri Jun 09, 2006 1:12 pm
Car: King Kong powered Z32

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Looks good! Wish my Z were at that stage...

I just noticed what you did with your radiator and core support. Nice! I may copy to get a little more space. Space there would be nice!!!

What size tires are you running? I got some 350z 18" track wheels, 8.5's all the way around and need to start shopping for tires.


Modified by T45 at 2:27 AM 7/1/2009

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SuperHatch
Posts: 907
Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 8:20 am
Car: 96 TLC

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Wow, people actually read my threads? lol

The wheels are 18x8.5 up front, 18x9.5 out back. 245/40-18 front and 275/35-18 rear.

The car is actually done now, been driving it around for a while. Sitting in traffic on 90 degree days and the car doesn't overheat at all anymore.


tmorgan4
Posts: 925
Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 6:46 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder

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I read them and always like seeing updates. I just don't post a whole lot.

T45
Posts: 1493
Joined: Fri Jun 09, 2006 1:12 pm
Car: King Kong powered Z32

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Of course everyone reads, we're just jealous, that's all. lol thanks

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OUKNO
Posts: 754
Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:36 pm
Car: 1990 Z32 NA, 1974 International Scout

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your build and the ideas that you use, keep me motivated to get all the parts together to pull my swap off... well you, others & the purrrr of a VHGreat build

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Chrispy300
Posts: 405
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Car: 1993 J-Spec 300ZX 5 Speed Slicktop
Location: Brisbane Australia
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Piccies don't work Steve

Quick Q while I'm here. Where did you get the main silicone intake pipe? I'm having issues with clearance with the stock intake pipe and the bonnet, but I reckon that I could squish a silicone one in a suitable position.

I've found some 90mm (3 1/2") elbow's, but nothing with the nice long length on it.

And getting something through to the standard SMIC spot for the filter? Did you just get some silicone and stuff it in the hole? Any trimming of the hole required?

Engine is coming out again soon and I want all this stuff sorted before it goes back in...

Thanks!

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SuperHatch
Posts: 907
Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 8:20 am
Car: 96 TLC

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Chrispy300 wrote:Piccies don't work Steve

Quick Q while I'm here. Where did you get the main silicone intake pipe? I'm having issues with clearance with the stock intake pipe and the bonnet, but I reckon that I could squish a silicone one in a suitable position.

I've found some 90mm (3 1/2") elbow's, but nothing with the nice long length on it.

And getting something through to the standard SMIC spot for the filter? Did you just get some silicone and stuff it in the hole? Any trimming of the hole required?

Engine is coming out again soon and I want all this stuff sorted before it goes back in...

Thanks!
My contract expired on my hosting service, and well, I don't think I'll be renewing.

I still have all of the pictures on my PC if there are specifics you want I can email them to you.

I bought the elbow from http://www.extremepsi.com. The silicone connector was simply a 45* elbow, it just happened to have really long legs on it. I cut one of the legs off and it became my intake pipe. There was a connection in the middle just behind the headlight, and then a ~10" lone 3.5" straight section went below the headlight into the intercooler position. I used a JWT POP charger for a Q45 in that spot, and lengthened the MAF wires to reach. Yes, I needed to enlarge the opening below the headlight to fit the piping through.


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