harmonic balancer removal

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
exhsturbine
Posts: 128
Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 4:33 pm
Car: 1997 240
Location: Miramar, San Diego, California

Post

i have removed the harmonic balancer on my engine before, slid right off with no issues. put it back together everything was good. now its time to take it back apart, only this time it isnt coming off. i am using a 3 jaw puller. which from what the fsm shows is not how they recommend things to be done. only their method isnt possible with my harmonic balancer. if it helps any, it was also a b**** getting the flywheel off this time around. im wondering if there wasnt some sort of vibration in the crankshaft that set these two items into a "bind". either way, im asling nico members if they can confirm my method of using a three jaw puller or if there is another way im too ignorant to notice. below is a picture of the fsm recommendation and my balancer. thank you all so very much in advance.



User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

A 3 jaw works fine. I've taken off the pulley with a 3 jaw plenty of times. I've also pulled it off by using two prybars and being very careful while I 'walk' the pulley off the crank nose.

Just make sure to rethread the crank bolt back in a few turns so when the pulley comes off, it doesn't fall to the cloor.

The pulley and the flywheel seem to randomly seize up. I've had mine off a few times, and it's either smooth sailing and pull it off by hand or need to get something to pry it off with. It's probably just due to thermal dynamics and the crank and the pulley/flywheel all expanding and contracting at different rates.

You can walk the flyhweel off with a prybar if it's giving you issues as well.

exhsturbine
Posts: 128
Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 4:33 pm
Car: 1997 240
Location: Miramar, San Diego, California

Post

your response was rather appropriate in relation to the quote in your sig . i was afraid of damaging the crank with walking it off but its good to know that it seizes from time to time, and this is possible. the last couple times it came off was smooth sailing, and for it to have given me trouble this time around i was afraid to do anything foolish. but thanks alot hijacker, hopefully i can get it off. so i can get it back running soon.

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

If you use a 3 jaw, it should come right off. I use the prybar method when I'm hard up for a puller big enough. Also, my old radiator setup was too close to the motor to get a puller on the crank, so to avoid having to remove the cooling system just to change a front main, I had to use prybars.

exhsturbine
Posts: 128
Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 4:33 pm
Car: 1997 240
Location: Miramar, San Diego, California

Post

in the past when ive used the puller it does come off without any hesitation, however this time around it started to pull and bend the edges of the balancer, nearly breaking them, when it should just slide it off smooth as butter. i have yet to go try it out with pry bars. and some heavy lubrication. luckily for me the engine is on the stand.

exhsturbine
Posts: 128
Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 4:33 pm
Car: 1997 240
Location: Miramar, San Diego, California

Post

okay.... so, i have had to put this aside for a bit. i just enlisted in the marine corps. and have been extremely busy with that and a few other things. now that ive had time... i have wanted to get back to work. i would like a few boost pulls before i ship out.

now when i left off, i was using a puller. and i couldnt get the pulley off. so i began to resort to using prybars, hammers, wd-40, and anger. of course none of this works.

a few methods ive tried:threading and re-torque-ing the bolt. then loosening, lubing, and using the puller: no luck.

ive tried walking the balancer off with pry bars.

ive tried just good ol prying and some persuasion on top of that with the "poundometer". no luck, no budge.

im getting to the point where i am going to take a grinder and take a "slice of pie" out of that pulley. now i know this is a retarded thought. so i thought i would ask wonderful nico once again for their help. any ideas fellas?

jwren
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun May 24, 2009 12:26 pm
Car: 93 240sx hb sr20

Post

bumping this old thread bc i ran into this same problem. ive also tried heating the harmonic then pulling and prying. some help please?

driftneil
Posts: 3256
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 5:11 am
Car: A pile of cars.

Post

Heat it up man!

Seishuku
Posts: 498
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 6:19 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan S12, 5-speed, SR20DE+T 50trim T3@15PSI, Megasquirt 1 029y4

Post

I wouldn't recommend heating it... You'll melt or weaken the rubber that holds the dampener weight and such together.

driftneil
Posts: 3256
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 5:11 am
Car: A pile of cars.

Post

The crank bolt.


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”