Not passing inspection with short ram setup...

[mjhink3]

Hi, I installed an injen short-ram intake on my 2001 Nissan Sentra SE (2.0 L). Apparently it didn't pass emissions because of the intake. I had put a breather filter on the vacuum input on the engine head and plugged the vacuum hose input on the actual intake. I'm going to reinstall the vacuum hose even though it's a little bit short, which is the reason I resulted to buying a breather filter instead, just in case that was the reason to the failure of the emissions test. The intake I bought was for an earlier year sentra, product RD-1964 Injen. If anyone has any logic as to why else I might've failed inspection please let me know ASAP, thank you...

[nametakennow]

The breather filter is why.

You can always go buy a longer piece of hose from an auto parts store.

[mjhink3]

I realize that added to the problem, but the engine light has always been on since i installed the intake. The temperature sensor hasn't been plugged in because there was no input on the intake for it because it was meant for an earlier year sentra. I'm most likely going to have to result to ordering a new intake altogether through a mechanic i know. The short ram i have now is technically supposed to be a cold air setup and me and my friend had to improvise a lot to make it work. The temperature sensor was the only thing we couldn't figure out how to plug in with the whole improv thing so i guess the better idea is to just order a new intake and do it right so i don't have to worry about inspection every year. The mechanic i know can always turn off the engine light so that i could pass inspection but then it would come back on and i don't plan on going to him every year for my inspection so oh well.

[nametakennow]

That's nonsense. The intake can't cause a cod unless your MAF is messed up, which would have other symptoms. Your intake temp sensor failing, much less just not being in the intake, can't even throw a code.

Just tape the temp sensor somewhere near the intake, the temperature is going to be the same anyway.

Connect the valve cover breather tube to the intake, then get the code read. That will tell you why you're failing.

FYI if you had your mech clear the code then tried to get tested you'd fail anyway. The ECU keeps codes for awhile without the light, so unless the problem didn't appear for several driving cycles or a good 30-50 miles, the code would continue to be stored and you'd fail OBDII inspection anyway.

[500dolla]

I've always keep my old intake tubing whenever i install an intake. People don't like to see customization when they are buying or inspecting the car. It takes only 1 hour to put back to stock for the inspection, When selling the car simply take out the intake then you saved yourself a filter and some tubing that could be useful in the future.

[mjhink3]

Okay, so basically you think it's best that i ask my mechanic to run the thing and see what the problem appears to be according to the codes that show up? i just wouldn't know what the problem would be ya know? maybe the MAF sensor is the problem but wouldn't you think that the engine wouldn't even work correctly because it wouldn't know how much air is entering it? because i know we were dumb enough to try and install the intake without the MAF sensor in the beginning and the engine wouldn't start, it would make an airy bucking sound. hopefully it is just the MAF sensor because i don't feel like shelling out a lot of money for a brand new intake. i duno, i mean i'm calling the mechanic tomorrow to see if i can get it looked at and see what he thinks. afterall an intake is really quite simple for professionals i would hope. i'll see what his opinion is, i'm sure it's something dumb.

[VMPhil]

ive never seen an intake throw a code for anyone. this is a new ones on me.

[nametakennow]

MAF's can be just as expensive as intake systems. Fortunately, used ones are easy to find.

Regardless, your breather filter is most likely your point of failure anyway. The code might or might not be related to it, but your intake itself didn't cause the code.

You said you tried to run it without the MAF. Most likely that triggered a MAF code is all.

I've passed inspection for 5 years with an intake installed.

[mjhink3]

It may add to it but believe me it's not the sole reason behind my failure. i put in the breather filter long after i put in the intake and the engine light was on the entire time the breather hose was on too. my belief as of right now is that since my MAF isn't attached completely secure and it's in a diagonal-like position since the adapter that came with the earlier-year sentra didn't match up with the bolts on my year sentra's MAF bolt holes, that it may be throwing a code pertaining to how it's not on correctly. i.e. there might be air restriction or uneven amounts of air entering/exiting the intake through the area where it's not perfectly connected right before the MAF. it honestly could be a number of things, weird stuff happens with cars all the time so i'll see what my mechanic says when i drop it off at the end of the week.

[nametakennow]

Right, I didn't mean to preclude that the MAF could throw the code.

My point is that the obvious part of failing the inspection is the breather filter. The code doesn't help since it alone will fail you as well. It's most likely a MAF code, especially now that you mention that there may be air entering that is unmetered. However, that's a simple fix, so once you get it all buttoned down you will pass.

My overall point is that the intake itself didn't cause your inspection failure because the intake itself won't cause a code. Thus, there's no need to worry about getting a different intake or anything, just a couple of minor adjustments.

You may be able to find the right MAF adapter at Autozone or the like. Alternatively, you could contact Injen and explain to them that you ordered the wrong part and see if you could purchase just the right MAF adapter.

[mjhink3]

The mechanic fixed my intake. It was exactly what I thought it would be. He drilled some holes to make the adapter fit nice and snug so that no air is escaping/being trapped. He made sure he made a hole big enough for the temperature sensor which he recommended be in there because the air in the intake is going into the engine which, therefore, needs to be recorded by the computer. (If the air from the engine bay is being recorded by the temperature sensor that may throw a code, I realize opinions may vary on that). With all that aside, he basically just did some custom drilling for me and reset the computer. After he reset the computer he drove the car for a little bit to make sure the code would clear and that my engine light would stay off. I picked it up today and it runs like a charm, no problems whatsoever and my engine light is finally off. He even threw in a free inspection with the bill, getting me new stickers yay

[GetThatThingISentra]

What are your HP gains if any with your setup?