Ram air intake using OEM parts for 94-96 Q guys.

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elwesso
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Some of you know a few weeks ago, I went and got a bunch of free Q parts.. Most of the stuff was useless, except the brakes, but I took it anyway.. I figure my attic has almost enough to put together half a Q, why not make it 55%..

So while I was there, I took some of the intake parts. The abstract of what I did was take the "air horn" off of a 90-93 and dropped it right onto the stock intake tract on my 94. NO modification required, just take the other one off and put the new one on! thank you nissan for not changing it...

on the 94, you can see where the intake comes out at. This is on my old 94, its the only picture I have of a stock 94 intake, except on most Qs theres a trim piece there, however it is missing on this picture, but its almost better for the sake of illustration

Thumbnails are clickable to enlarge.

Look just inboard of the drivers side headlight, you can see where the airhorn is on a 94. normally there is a trim piece in front of it.



Here is a picture of the entire intake before the airbox removed from the car. the piece on the far left is the only part from the 90-93, the rest is as it is on the stock 94.



Intake assembled.



For some reason the previous owner thought it would be good to strip down the intake and leave a bunch of holes, so I sealed the holes up with tape so that it can maintain pressure.





Here is a couple shots of the final product installed.





Driving impressions...

Well, you cant expect a whole lot from something like this, however I definitely do think that it pulls a little bit harder, and it seems a lot more jumpy then it was before. When you put your hand in from of the air horn and rev the motor you can feel the air being sucked in, so it must be fairly leak free... Overall, this cost me about an hour (not all a loss because I had to attend to something else while I was in there) and parts cost me nothing, so im a happy guy... Plus, I used all OEM Q45 stuff!


Q45tech
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Sucked in? you mean you feel the Earth's 14.7 psi supercharger pushing the air in to to replenish that pumped out [by thermal expansion].

Sucked in drives me nuts as it just directs newbees into a life long error and confusion as to how engines work.

Back to the manometer which will show actual positive pressure at the input to air filter] above anbient [14.7] at speed.

The back pressure created by the condenser and radiator is high enough to make the horn the preferred path until the back pressure is equalized.

We are speaking of less than 1/4 psi [7" W.C.]

http://www.vararam.com/ramairinaroadcar.html

maxnix
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I remember when one of my friends went through Air Force Airframe and Powerplant training.

He was told there were only three things he needed to know about how jet turbines worked - it sucks, it blows and it goes.

Everything that followed was how to maintain it.

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heywier427
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i think thats just a cheap way to try and make a 94 as fast as a 90

j/k thats nice and stealth. youve got the center plastic removed for better airflow to the radiator correct.

so if you had the 94 you could just cut a well place hole in the plastic if you wanted to keep it looking stock.

thats got to add at least 10 hp right tech!?

P.S. wash your freakin car!!!!

Q45tech
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What in the world does a gas turbine engine have to do with a normal automobile engine, another confusing analogy.

The point is no matter what you design [size/shape] as a scoop or what speed you measure even 150 mph WILL NOT CREATE even 0.5 measley PSI of boost.

50 mph creates 0.044 psi100 mph creates 0.176 psi or about 4.87" H20200 mph creates 0.704 psiAbove assumes 100% effcient which is impossible.

Not understanding basic physics makes you an easy prey to confusing aftermarket expenditures.

The term RAM AIR itself is confusing.

I love for people to experiment because it teaches basic physics.

maxnix
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Q45tech wrote:What in the world does a gas turbine engine have to do with a normal automobile engine, another confusing analogy.
The analogy was not about the engine type, but the depth of theoretical knowledge required to maintain an engine functioning in a totally critical environment.

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AZhitman
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Regardless of the "math" and "physics" involved, there IS a "seat-of-the-pants" improvement - I did this on my Q two years ago and noticed the difference.

Lest one paint me as using "ricer math", I've built a few hot rods in my day, and my butt-dyno is pretty sensitive (has to be when you're tuning a Q-jet on a big-block or a 400-hp boosted 4-cylinder).

I think it has more to do with eliminating restrictions already present than any "ram air" effect.

Regardless, it's functional, even if to a small degree.

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elwesso
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the bottom line is, it may not have done a whole lot but it didnt cost anything and the only thing wasted was my time.

maxnix
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I wonder if most of the effect is on tip-in?

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elwesso
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maxnix wrote:I wonder if most of the effect is on tip-in?
definitely seems like it to me...

Q45tech
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Luckily or unluckily EXTRA REDESIGNED ram air is not something easily tested on a dyno or even quarter mile since the speeds are so low <100 mph.

All one can do is use a manometer to MEASURE the decrease in restriction if any.

If you bother to measure the restriction from atmosphere to the other side of oem air box [tap a port on top of air box lid*] ~~ 7.0" H2O.............decreasing to 5.2-5.5" at 80 mph.................WOT unmeasureable at cruise.

*I installed a port with a rubber cap so that all I have to do is roll out some vacuum hose and attach a manometer and route thu a cracked window [rear of hood seal with not deform it] and drive and view.

A very interesting exercise to see the restrictions under various conditions.


Fred D.
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I did this mod last summer, not exatly the same, but still a ram air set up. I felt a small improvment off the line and more suction sound. I wasnt satisfied so I removed the tube that led up to the air box and remove the bubbles on the sides of the air box, well this made a big diffrence no JOKE and I dont car what a book says take a ride in my car I garntee you can feel the diffrence not only of the line but the pedal is more responsive and the rpm's jump up a lot faster, even on the freeway at 60 it's more resonsive. The only question is the ECU going to act up after the 500 miles or so when the computer can some times have a conflict with non factory set up like intake pressure. I would not suggest doing this in less you care more about performance than resale value!

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FarFetched
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Diesel engines suck (4 strokes of a diesel if you will: SUCK-SQUEEZE-BANG-BLOW)...Gasoline engines are sipping air.... Cheers!

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Jesda
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Odd looking contraption. That looks like a fun experiment

Q45tech
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Another point was that somehow dropping the plenum air by 11F is worth 1% significantly more than any reduction possible from redesigning air box induction system before the MAF.

Sucking all the cool interior air in 100F ambient can give you a 3% boost [wear ear plugs] and lower a rear window slightly prior........Where to cut the 4" duct thru firewall and a fast acting flipper valve?

The KS system won't engage with cooler air so probably 5-10-15% more torque.

The leftside cast plug on plenum is an excellant place to insert a thermister probe to measure actual plenum air temp.

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AZhitman
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Q45tech wrote:Sucking all the cool interior air in 100F ambient can give you a 3% boost [wear ear plugs] and lower a rear window slightly prior........Where to cut the 4" duct thru firewall and a fast acting flipper valve?
Dennis, you're a strange bird, brotha.

I love it.

captainluigi
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i truly have one of the best jobs in the world. having said that , i still get MCPH(more chuckles per hour)on this site than watching tourists fish. thanx to each & every one of you. oh yeah, i also learn a bucket load.

Q45tech
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After all you never go WOT unless it is an emergency or trying to show off so the cool interior air would rarely be used anyway.............right?

It might limit the WOT and save gasoline.

Better yet blow the Nitrous in from the trunk and breath a little as it passes by towards the engine.............don't use smelly Sulfur added industrial Nitrous.

See something for everyone.



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