You can use non abs axles on abs cars but you need to have your old axles with the rings on them. on the non ABS axels you use a screw driver and a small hammer and work your way around the back side of the gold metal dust ring to knock it off. on the ABS axles your do the same thing with the tooth ring then just tap it onto the new axles.

"SB103 for the fronts and SB108 for the rears. Select the front boots for 95' Mustang (SB103) and rear boots for 95' Miata (SB108)."

I thought that with all of the people looking to do suspension installs I would post what information I had gathered while assembling my parts for my install.

I went to advanced auto and purchased my parts. I did this out of convenience and because I hate waiting for mail-order parts. Advance Auto sells KYB struts for most cars (at least the GR2 model) so I thought that I would try there.

DO NOT BUY THE PARTS THAT THEY LIST AS OEM REPLACEMENTS FOR THE MAXIMA!

So here is the good information-

For the rears:
The advanced auto number was listed as a part 14108 for a company called TRW. The advanced item # is 18511582. According to Advanced auto the KYB ones are made by TRW and repackaged.

This weekend I compared it with the KYB part and they are identical right down to the stampings.

I got this part by asking them for a part for the 95 miata and they came up w/ the 14108 part number, which matched the KYB number (SB108) pretty closely.

For the fronts:
You can do the same with the mustang number (SB103). A friend gave me his KYB fronts and the # was SB103. The advanced auto computers can cross-reference those numbers. I checked with them on this and they have a direct-match part number listed in the computer system.

All 4 boots are about $15 each. They take about 2 days to get in.

How does this go?

There have been issues and questions raised regarding the feasibility of a face-swap (between compatible years) so that odometer readings can remain true and accurate.

In the past, it was asked (by me) about whether or not the faces can be switched or whether the whole gauge must be transferred.

It was answered as to the 97-99.5 Maximas, but I can tell you without question that this CAN be done on the 95-96 versions as well. Because I have an auto and the donor cluster was a manual, I chose to keep my existing cluster.
NOTE: the issue here is regarding the loss of the "O/D OFF" light that the Manual gauge cluster does not have.

What are my choices on how to do this swap and how extensive my efforts should be?

If you want OEM SE faces, buy an OEM SE cluster. Now we all know about legality and odometer/ mileage problems. You have 3 choices:

1. You can switch the whole assembly and get an odometer adjustment statement. Pros- EASY. Cons- Can lower resale value because an odometer adjustment statement will be attached to the title.

2. You can switch the whole assembly and NOT get an odometer adjustment statement. Pros- EASY. Cons- Illegal. If the mileage is LOWER, it is definitely illegal; if it is higher it is not illegal UNLESS you go back to the original cluster to sell the car. If you change the mileage on a car to a lower amount, it is odometer fraud, unless you get the aforementioned odometer disclosure statement.

3. (What I did) Switch the fuel gauge, temp gauge, and tachometer. Actually, you REUSE only the Speedo- everything else is from the new gauge cluster.
Take the odo/speedo gauge and remove it from the GLE/GXE cluster. You will be reusing the base from your GLE/GXE. Remove the needle and the face. Take the needle and the face off of the SE. CAREFULLY drill out the 2 screw holes that the GLE has but the SE lacks (see below and PM/email me for more info about this). Put the SE face on your old GLE/GXE gauge base. Reuse the SE needle. This will have your original odometer in your car, thus making it 100% legal.

So on to my actual swap:

The donor was a fellow .org member, and he sent me the FULL gauges for tach, temp, and fuel (faces AND electronics), and for the speedo he sent only the face and the needle rest. He broke the needle doing the removal of the face, so I had to ask around. JDM4LIFE was cool enough to send me an SE needle to go on the face of the white SE gauge (my white GLE needle would not have shown up). My temp, tach, and fuel gauges have white/black needles, and the speedo has orange. Oddly enough, I LIKE this, b/c it makes the speedo easier to see at a glance. If I was a racer or had a manual, I would want this needle on the tach, but I have an auto so it works best on he speedo.

I swapped the WHOLE gauge (face and electronics) into my cluster base for the temp/tach/fuel (3 easy screws each), and did a face swap on the speedo/odo cluster. 2 extra screws, plus the needle swap, and it was done. Like the link above says, I had trouble with the needle sticking, but it was resolved. Read this thread to see problems encountered when the needles stuck after the gauge face swap.

While the gauges were out I switched the dash illumination bulbs (5 total) from white to red. These look great, are super deep, and light up just bright enough. Even if I was not doing the face-swap, these bulbs would have been worth the time. I wanted blue, but have used blue 194s before and cannot find ones that do not fade over time. After the mixed reviews on 194-based LEDs (1 or 4 LED versions), I have decided to stick w/ the reds. I actually looked for VW OEM blurple/indigo bulbs, but they are not sold to the public (they are soldered to the dash cluster).

Pics of the new light bulbs are on my CarDomain homepage.

Sure I'd be happy to help anyone keep from having that unsightly spiderweb of useless wires under the hood :D

First of all, no, you don't ground every wire directly to the battery. Only one wire goes to the battery. Some people use 2 and 4 guage wire, but that is pretty pointless IMO. Four and eight guage wire will be plenty. You will have one wire of the larger size(either 2 or 4 whichever you choose), and then smaller wires (either 4 or 8).

First you will need to run your one large wire directly from the negative post of the battery...

to the grounding tab on the block shown in these two pictures
close-up:

You will then run three smaller wires from that grounding tab on the block. Two of the wires will go to the factory grounding points in between the front valve cover and the intake manifold shown in the following pictures. These are the factory grounding points for the injectors, MAF, TPS, KS, and all other sensors of the motor that are neccessary to ground.(look closely and you'll see the ground wires zip-tied to the main wiring harness of the motor):

The last wire (third) you will run will also be coming from the same grounding tab on the block. It will run to the alternator grounding tab shown here. The best way to hide this wire is to take off your front spark plug cover and run it underneath(sandwiched in between the valve cover and the spark plug cover)and then put the spark plug cover back on.:

Finished product(excuse the filthy engine bay):

If you have any further question just contact me.

Hope I could help

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