'01 QX4 rough idle and stalling

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Evak
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01 QX4 4x4 w/ 98,000 miles, stock motor, and we've owned it since 84,000. For about the last year or so, when stopped at a red light, the idle would drop from 8-900 to 5-600 RPM. The idle would always bounce back up, then drop again. Since it was intermittent we have not taken it in, and have not gotten any Check Engine lights. Last Friday, when finally taking it into a private mechanic, the truck accually stalled while in the parking lot. It fired back up, then stalled again. I thought it was a dirty MAF, because I have read a lot about that on the boards here. They check the MAF, it's clean, and say if was the MAF, the Check engine light would have come on. So, they change to spark plugs, fuel filter and add some kind of fuel conditioner, and let me on my way. It seems to have corrected the idle issue and truck is running much smoother now. Driving about 200 miles this weekend, I have had no issues with the truck at all. If anyone is experiencing something like this, I hope it helps.


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Empty V
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Car: 2001 Infiniti QX4
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Evak wrote:01 QX4 4x4 w/ 98,000 miles, stock motor, and we've owned it since 84,000. For about the last year or so, when stopped at a red light, the idle would drop from 8-900 to 5-600 RPM. The idle would always bounce back up, then drop again. Since it was intermittent we have not taken it in, and have not gotten any Check Engine lights. Last Friday, when finally taking it into a private mechanic, the truck accually stalled while in the parking lot. It fired back up, then stalled again. I thought it was a dirty MAF, because I have read a lot about that on the boards here. They check the MAF, it's clean, and say if was the MAF, the Check engine light would have come on. So, they change to spark plugs, fuel filter and add some kind of fuel conditioner, and let me on my way. It seems to have corrected the idle issue and truck is running much smoother now. Driving about 200 miles this weekend, I have had no issues with the truck at all. If anyone is experiencing something like this, I hope it helps.
Sounds like it was a misfire which was probably the plugs. Would it only die when in park but dip when in drive? I've got the same deal with mine but I think it's the ignition coils which are prone to go bad. I changed my plugs last year.

Evak
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Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:43 am
Car: '05 Infiniti fx35 & '05 Legacy GT
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It would stall in both Park and Drive. I thouht about coils too but I will cross that bridge when I get there.

523
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Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 1:01 pm
Car: 01 Pathfinder LE 4x4

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Hi guys, longtime lurker, just registered. I must say these are probably the best general Nissan forums I've come across.

Re: Dips in drive, stalls in park <- I had/have the same issue. It is an '01 pathy LE 4x4 with 70k miles. The issue started a few weeks ago, after a couple of weeks of it, the car threw a CEL for the passenger side camshaft/crankshaft sensor (I've seen it called both ways). Replaced it myself, the issue went away for a couple of days. CEL reset itself after a couple houndred miles.

Later I went on a long trip on some remote areas, used about 15 gals of questionable gas from enterprising roadside vendors (no gas stations for hundreds of miles of dirt roads, pathfinder country!). Right after that, the issue came back, except that now with part throttle at around 3500-4000 rpm there is a noticeable hesitation. Full throttle does not do it, but power feels down.

A few tanks of premium gas after that and the issue has reduced somewhat but is still there. No CEL, but it will dip/stall when standing in drive/park, and there is a noticeable hesitation nearing 4k rpm. It will rev past that on a full throttle, but doesn't seem to make much power.

Since there is no light, I will just change the MAF for the Maxima part.

Other than that, I am thinking there may be some relation to the valve timing step or the powervalve switchover rpms... does anyone know at what rpms the powervalves and/or valve timing are supposed to switch?

Thanks! And I'll keep you posted after the MAF switch, in case anyone has a similar issue.

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Pwnin O'Brien
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523 wrote:... does anyone know at what rpms the powervalves and/or valve timing are supposed to switch?
I'm pretty sure IVT kicks in at 2,000 RPM's. I could be wrong tho.

Buzzman
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Pwnin O’Brien wrote:I could be wrong tho.
From what I've seen dude, you're never wrong.

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Empty V
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Buzzman wrote:
From what I've seen dude, you're never wrong.
I concur, Pwnin's the man! I'd hate to have to live up to his rep, lol.

Billy

523
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Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 1:01 pm
Car: 01 Pathfinder LE 4x4

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Pwnin O’Brien wrote:
I'm pretty sure IVT kicks in at 2,000 RPM's. I could be wrong tho.
Thanks. So, it's something like IVT @ 2k, swirl valve opens @ 3k right? I'm not sure how the power valves work or if they have an effect at a certain rpm... I'll keep reading...

Driving home yesterday, I pull out to pass an old beat up chevy cavalier, suddenly the guy nails it and drops me like a bad habit... no idea why he accelerated but that settles it, my car has no power! So... I just ordered the MAF, and tonight I'm going to check something I read about the swirl control valve getting stuck... my completely unfounded guess is that it may be running out of air at high rpms due to a stuck swirl valve...

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Pwnin O'Brien
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523 wrote:
Thanks. So, it's something like IVT @ 2k, swirl valve opens @ 3k right? I'm not sure how the power valves work or if they have an effect at a certain rpm... I'll keep reading...

Driving home yesterday, I pull out to pass an old beat up chevy cavalier, suddenly the guy nails it and drops me like a bad habit... no idea why he accelerated but that settles it, my car has no power! So... I just ordered the MAF, and tonight I'm going to check something I read about the swirl control valve getting stuck... my completely unfounded guess is that it may be running out of air at high rpms due to a stuck swirl valve...
Swirl control valve opens at 3,600RPM's (2,800RPM's for M/T). Maybe it was a sleeper cavalier? haha

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Pwnin O'Brien
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If there was a stuck swirl valve it would most likely throw a DTC (since all of the swirl valves are control together, not independently). This could also be a symptom of fuel starvation, such as a semi-clogged fuel filter. I would recommend changing the fuel filter if you've never had it done on the vehicle. You probably shouldn't have ordered another MAF sensor since the old one probably could have just been cleaned (since the old one wasn't throwing a DTC, or was it?). I would also recommend cleaning the throttle body of carbon deposits. I would also suggest pulling the small hoses from the top of the engine (under the engine cover) and checking for clogs. Clogged swirl valve solenoid valve hoses are all too common on Pathfinders; a fully clogged hose would throw a DTC but a semi-clogged hose may prevent full opening of the swirl control valves. Worst case scenario: some of your power valve screws backed out and the power valves have fallen onto the swirl valves and the screws were eaten by the engine, lowering the compression of one or more of your cylinders. I suggest doing some regular maintenance items first before trying to diagnose the power valve failure.

523
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Car: 01 Pathfinder LE 4x4

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Thanks!

Some of the items you mention make a lot of sense... I probably should have mentioned some stuff I've already done:about 1500 mi ago (late 60's mileage) before the hesitation started (but after the idle stalling):- New air and fuel filter, oe replacement- New ngk "Cold" plugs (the ones the manual recommends as "cold")- Throttle body cleaned and ran fuel injector cleaner (the kind you hook up to the fuel lines and run the engine on)- oil and filter and other assorted stuff...- new crankshaft/camshaft position sensor

I'll look at the hoses tonight... see what I find. I heard not many people having luck cleaning the MAF so, even though it's not throwing codes, I thought I wouldn't bother... my order has not been confirmed so I could probably still cancel tomorrow morning. I guess I jumped the gun, but it just sucks when you floor it and not much happens... stupid "Ward's ten best engines"...

LOL...maybe the cavalier was actually a sleeper... I hate sleepers, why can't they just be like everyone else and put big wheels and stickers and everything ... at least a large dia ss exhaust so I can spot it as it speeds off and say to myself "well, that thing probably has a twin turbo LS6 swap, so it's ok"

I don't even want to think about powervalve screws... maybe if I don´t think about it it will go away.... j/k... the loctite fix will happen sometime within the next couple of months, since I won't be driving the pathy much.

Thanks again, that's a lot of valuable info!

josephdmartin8
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I had no luck at all cleaning the MAF sensor. I just ordered the Maxima one, because I was limping home. I've been living with a Left bank/Right bank lean CEL for 7 or 8 months, I think the sensor finally kicked the bucket. I had to drive home stumbling. Changed the spark plugs a couple hundred miles ago, new air filter, didn't change the coil packs but truck had been running good other than the lean left/right codes.
523 wrote:Thanks!

Some of the items you mention make a lot of sense... I probably should have mentioned some stuff I've already done:about 1500 mi ago (late 60's mileage) before the hesitation started (but after the idle stalling):- New air and fuel filter, oe replacement- New ngk "Cold" plugs (the ones the manual recommends as "cold")- Throttle body cleaned and ran fuel injector cleaner (the kind you hook up to the fuel lines and run the engine on)- oil and filter and other assorted stuff...- new crankshaft/camshaft position sensor

I'll look at the hoses tonight... see what I find. I heard not many people having luck cleaning the MAF so, even though it's not throwing codes, I thought I wouldn't bother... my order has not been confirmed so I could probably still cancel tomorrow morning. I guess I jumped the gun, but it just sucks when you floor it and not much happens... stupid "Ward's ten best engines"...

LOL...maybe the cavalier was actually a sleeper... I hate sleepers, why can't they just be like everyone else and put big wheels and stickers and everything ... at least a large dia ss exhaust so I can spot it as it speeds off and say to myself "well, that thing probably has a twin turbo LS6 swap, so it's ok"

I don't even want to think about powervalve screws... maybe if I don´t think about it it will go away.... j/k... the loctite fix will happen sometime within the next couple of months, since I won't be driving the pathy much.

Thanks again, that's a lot of valuable info!


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