Attempting Knock Sensor replacement

[Dodgeyaussie]

One question of many i am sure, but how do you remove the plug from the sensors? I've removed the bolts that secure the KS's and i don't want to force the plug the wrong way and break them.

Any tips?

[tfvesquire]

If you are removing the entire KS wiring harness (which you should do you check for any damage and/or replace if necessary) then once you get the harness to your bench, you will see a red sleeve around the actual plug that has a metal U shapped snap clip holding the KS to the plug.

Get a small flat screwdriver (like one to repair computers or eyeglasses) and carefully insert the screwdriver into the bottom part of the U shaped clip and work the clip loose. *** Do not remove the clip completely or it will will shoot out and be lost forever. You can also do this with the end of the harness and the KS inside a small clear plastic bag in case you are worried about losing the clip. Once you have loosened the clip, the KS just slides free. Insert the new KS and carefully press the metal clip back in place untill it clicks.

If you are trying to do this with the harness in the engine bay, use the same steps, just be careful not to lose the clip. I am not sure how much slack is in the KS harness to allow you to access the clips under the water outlet of the plenum. If the KS are not secured by that clip to the harness, it may work itself loose and you will have all kinds of KS codes and problems down the road.

Good luck.

Ted

[KingKarl]

When you say "plug" do you mean the electrical connector between the sub-harness and the knock sensors? If so, there is metal "U" shaped retainer clip that secures the connector to the knock sensor. It seats into grooves in the KS end of the connector and must be carefully removed as it can get away from you pretty easily and will invaribly land in exactly the worst place possible.

Aussie, have you removed the plenum? If so no problem to get to these connectors/pins but seal intake ports, coolant passages etc. before you remove the pins. And as the wise on this board advise, you should consider replacing the KS sub-harness as well.

If you are using the the "bullitandy" method: going in from the front of the engine after removing the viscous fan, alternator, coolant plumbing, etc. without removing the plenum, I'll defer to somone who has "been there, done that"

Like Paranoid Jack, my hands are too big to try this method, especially re-installing the connector retainer clip.

[KingKarl]

Ted said it all.

[Dodgeyaussie]

Thanks for the info.

I'm doing it without removing the Plenum at this stage.

[Dodgeyaussie]

Well i am now a member of the "you CAN do KS replacement without taking the plenum off" club.

Once i got a decent light in there i was able to see the clips ya'll were talking about. Instead of using a screwdriver to pull the clips out (i didn't completely remove them) i used this..



Getting the bolt in for the drivers side KS was a PITA.

[paranoidjack]

When you say "plug" do you mean the electrical connector between the sub-harness and the knock sensors? If so, there is metal "U" shaped retainer clip that secures the connector to the knock sensor. It seats into grooves in the KS end of the connector and must be carefully removed as it can get away from you pretty easily and will invaribly land in exactly the worst place possible.

Aussie, have you removed the plenum? If so no problem to get to these connectors/pins but seal intake ports, coolant passages etc. before you remove the pins. And as the wise on this board advise, you should consider replacing the KS sub-harness as well.

If you are using the the "bullitandy" method: going in from the front of the engine after removing the viscous fan, alternator, coolant plumbing, etc. without removing the plenum, I'll defer to somone who has "been there, done that"

Like Paranoid Jack, my hands are too big to try this method, especially re-installing the connector retainer clip.

Great to see you holding down the fort Karl

Well, to the OP, removing the little metal clips wasn't the issue for me. It was getting them back on with the new sensors installed. Also proper torquing of the new KS's couldn't be done with my tools from the front. Most probably don't torque those bolts but I'm a bit anal with that.

[Dodgeyaussie]

Well, to the OP, removing the little metal clips wasn't the issue for me. It was getting them back on with the new sensors installed. Also proper torquing of the new KS's couldn't be done with my tools from the front. Most probably don't torque those bolts but I'm a bit anal with that.

That's why i was careful to only pull the clips out far enough to release the KS's instead of removing them completely. It was just a matter of sliding them back into place once the new KS was installed.

[paranoidjack]

That's why i was careful to only pull the clips out far enough to release the KS's instead of removing them completely. It was just a matter of sliding them back into place once the new KS was installed.

Great thinking!

[Dodgeyaussie]

Got it all back together, and the frikken things still misses. Argh.

I did notice one thing though, there seems to be a vacuum line missing. Are these two meant to be connected?

[maxnix]

Getting the bolt in for the drivers side KS was a PITA.

Torquing them to the specified values is instrumental to their proper working.

I have some vacuum lines that are not complete either.

Miss may be diagnosed with OBD II reader to see if there is a cylinder misfire code. Switching coilpacks will indicate the culprit.

[qship96]

Got it all back together, and the frikken things still misses. Argh.

I did notice one thing though, there seems to be a vacuum line missing. Are these two meant to be connected?

You can tell the one on the left had a hose connected to it just by the cleanliness of the end of the tube. Look for vac. hose routing diagram in FSM.

[KingKarl]

I believe the metal tube on the left anchors a small vacuum hose that connects to the plastic air induction cowling between the MAF sensor and one of the larger hoses in the picture.

The one on the right that looks as if it has not had a hose on it is a reinforcement rail for a bracket that routes a number of small vacuum hoses under the throttle body, I think. If you can get a look at the other end of that metal tube, I think you will see that it also appears to have not had a hose on connected to it either.

[Dodgeyaussie]

So i got the one on the left sorted, but the one on the right is a complete mystery. It doesn't even seem to appear in the FSM diagram.

[Dodgeyaussie]

I believe the metal tube on the left anchors a small vacuum hose that connects to the plastic air induction cowling between the MAF sensor and one of the larger hoses in the picture.

The one on the right that looks as if it has not had a hose on it is a reinforcement rail for a bracket that routes a number of small vacuum hoses under the throttle body, I think. If you can get a look at the other end of that metal tube, I think you will see that it also appears to have not had a hose on connected to it either.

Yup, you're correct. Thankyou

So i erased the DTC's and hopefully it'll stay that way now. Time for a test drive, engine bay cleaning and a new temp sender.

Now i just have to try and sort the drivers seat out and hopefully i won't see the car again until it needs another oil change.

Seat thread here if anyone has any input.

zer...seats
Modified by Dodgeyaussie at 11:18 AM 2/8/2010