Calling Pwnin O'Brien

[2 Coupes]

Just purchased a Viper 5901 system and wanted to call upon you and your resources. I wanted to know if you still have any information (wire matching) from your install of this system? I have taken a diagram from the12volt.com and one from bulldogsecurity.com and the two diagrams are conflicting on some of the wires. Which did you use? Did you use and relays or diodes? I have been reading about an install for a 2008 Toyota Tundra where he did some serious wire connections to make it work. Any info that you can give me would be great. Thanks

[Pwnin O'Brien]

I'm pretty sure I still have all of my wiring information and diagrams and whatnot. I'll have to go to the garage and see what box the alarm box is in and I'll post up the wiring information and colors. Also, I am assuming that the wiring data is the same for the Pathfinder and QX4.

Nissan utilizes two starter wires, a standard starter wire and a cold starter wire. You will need two relays to power those two wires (which will go into the 5901 for the starter kill). I should still have the relay diagram for that and I can post that as well. You will also need a relay to allow the unit to control the interior lighting.

Also, don't forget that you will need an immobilizer override module. The module you will need is the XK05 ( http://www.xpresskit.com/produ...d=346 ). Also let me point out that the unit will NOT come with the proper firmware to work with your vehicle unless you buy the unit from a reseller which can program it for your vehicle. You will need firmware PKN2 v.3.00 so the unit will work with your vehicle. You can also purchase the USB cable so you can hook the unit up to your computer and download the firmware form the XPRESSKIT website and then upload it to the XK05 module once you receive it. A third option is to find an authorized XPRESSKIT retailer in your area that already has the USB cable and can upload the software to the module for you.

Once I find all of my wiring information I can post up all of the information you will need to install the 5901.
Modified by Pwnin O'Brien at 11:14 AM 1/26/2010

[2 Coupes]

Ryan,

I have not purchased the bypass unit yet, I was certain that it needed to be a XK05 unit. I have located a unit that is the PKN2 which is already programed for 2003 Nissan Pathfinder/Infiniti QX4. I think I am going to get that. I have been searching this install for about a month now and have seen a few of your posts around the net. Did you post on the12volt.com to ask a question? I also saw your posts about the ECU having to get re-flashed at the dealership (good you were able to figure that one out). Did you install any accessories like; tilt sensor, back-up battery, audio sensor, etc?

Again any information that you can provide would be great. I was mostly concerned with the relay and the double starter wire (one for below a certain temperature). I am not ready for the install yet, but I was thinking of going into the dash area this weekend to scope out some of the wires to help answer some of my questions.

Thanks,

Bryan

[Pwnin O'Brien]

I did post on the12volt.com with some pre-install questions I had about the 5901 install since it was by far the most complicated install I've done to date (it's pretty intimidating at first when you see all the wires).

What happened in my install was I left the battery disconnected for a long period of time (a few days) and this reset the ECM and erased all of the learning data. I was naive and I took it to the dealer already knowing the issue and I didn't know I could fix it in my driveway in only a few minutes. This may not be necessary depending on how long you leave your battery disconnected but regardless you can find all of the learning procedures in the HOW TO sticky thread; all of the procedures can be completed in a matter of minutes with no tools.

I HIGHLY recommend locating all of the proper wires before starting. The most difficult wire to get to is the brake pedal wire. It is really high up on the brake pedal mount and is hard to reach, let alone tap. Another difficult wire to reach is the tachometer wire; this wire is located up near the TCM and can be difficult to get to. I removed the TCM to get better access to the TCM harnesses.

Most of the wires you will need to access will be at the key cylinder and the smart entrance control unit (SECU). You will be spending most of your time with your head under the steering wheel and driver knee panel. Don't forget that it is imperative that you solder the heavy gauge wires (most of the wires at the key cylinder).

I'll post up all my information as soon as I can get to the alarm box with all of my install papers.

Also, I didn't get any accessories for it but they are super easy to install. They pretty much just plug into the 5901 brain and all you have to do is mount the sensor(s) and hide the wires.
Modified by Pwnin O'Brien at 12:13 AM 1/27/2010

[2 Coupes]

Alright.

I am having difficulty with the following things:

Harness #1:

Did you use: H1/6 and H1/8? Because I am thinking I only need to use H1/7.

Did you use: H1/9 not dome light but used door trigger here?

Harness #2:

Did you use only 7 of the 18 wires for this one?

Harness#3:

How did you use this?

H3/1: Ignition 1H3/2: 12V ConstantH3/3: NothingH3/4: -H3/5: -H3/6: 12V ConstantH3/7: ?H3/8: ?H3/9: /H3/10: Not Used

I am getting closer on relaying the double starter wire. Could you help me out with this. You had mentioned that there was going to be two relays needed. The way I am looking at relaying it should only need one relay. 30- Remote starter wire, 87a- Starter wire #1, 87- Starter wire #2, and 85 and 86 - 12V and ground.

Any help would be great thanks.

[Pwnin O'Brien]

Ok, here's the following wires I used for the 5901 install. These wires have all been triple checked and work perfectly. All of the polarities are correct and they all function properly.

H1/1: Trunk Release - White/Green in drivers kick panelH1/2: Constant 12V - White/Green in ignition harnessH1/3: Siren Output - SirenH1/4: NOT USEDH1/5: Chassis Ground - factory ground in drivers kick panelH1/6: NOT USEDH1/7: NOT USEDH1/8: Door Trigger Input: - Red/Blue at SECU pin 3H1/9: Dome Light - Red/Black at SECU pin 31 (RELAY REQUIRED)**H1/10: NOT USEDH1/11: Parking Light Output - Green at SECU pin 20**H1/12: NOT USED

**Notes for H1: To power the dome light properly you will need to use a relay. The 200ma supply current is not enough to properly illuminate the dome lamps. It will light them up, but they will be dimmer than usual. As far as parking light output, the lamps will blink for the alarm system (locking, unlocking, panic, remote start, etc.). The parking lamps will suffice, but I recommend using the hazards instead since the parking lights will also flash all of the internal lighting (instrument cluster, shift indicator, etc.). If you want to use the hazard flashers instead, I can find the wire color and location for you.

H2/1: NOT USEDH2/2: NOT USEDH2/3: NOT USEDH2/4: NOT USEDH2/5: NOT USEDH2/6: NOT USEDH2/7: NOT USEDH2/8: Horn Output - Light Green/Black at SECU pin 42

H3/1: Ignition 1 Output - Black/White at ignition harnessH3/2: Ignition 2 / Flex Relay - Red (Constant 12V) at ignition harnessH3/3: Accessory Output - Red/Yellow at ignition harnessH3/4: Starter Output (Starter side) - Black/Yellow & Red/Black at ignition harness**H3/5: Starter Input (Key Side) - Black/Yellow & Red/Black a ignition harness**H3/6: Fused Ignition 1 Input - Red (Constant 12V) at ignition harnessH3/7: Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Output - White/Blue at ignition harnessH3/8: NOT USEDH3/9: Fused Accessory Input - Red (Constant 12V) at ignition harnessH3/10: NOT USED

**Note for H3: For each starter wire you will need a relay, each wire will need its own current draw and cannot be drawn from other wires (or each other).

Remote Start Input Harness:Pin 1: Neutral Safety Switch Input - GroundPin 1: Tachometer Input - White/Green at TCM pin 39**Pin 1: Brake Shutdown - Green/Yellow at brake pedal switchPin 1: Hood Pin Switch - Yellow/Black at SECU pin 6Pin 1: Rear Defogger Output - Orange at SECU pin 14 (pulsed, not latched)

** Note for remote start input harness: The tachometer wire is optional. The remote starter can also monitor battery voltage levels to see if vehicle is running, but I opted to hook up the tachometer wire because it is more accurate and more reliable than using battery voltage.

Remote Start Auxiliary Output Harness:Pin 1: NOT USEDPin 2: NOT USEDPin 3: NOT USEDPin 4: NOT USEDPin 5: Goes to XK05 module (brown wire from XK05)

Door Lock Harness:Pin 1: (-) Unlock Output - Light Green at SECU pin 10Pin 2: NOT USEDPin 3: (-) Lock Output - Yellow at SECU pin 11

I can't find my wiring diagram for the starter relays, but I know I have it somewhere. I spent a lot of time researching the two starter wires and how they should be handled. I asked a few installers in my area and they all said the same thing: for current isolation you need to run two relays. This will ensure that the starter has maximum current draw at startup and so you don't burn any wires or fuses.

Also, I recommend that you double-check all of my wire colors and locations and make sure they all make sense. I did the install a while ago and I may have made a last minute change and didn't write it down.

Let me know if you have any more questions!

[Pwnin O'Brien]

Also let me point out that the vehicle has two accessory wires, one is for the radio while the other is for the HVAC. I wanted both accessory wires hooked up so that my radio would turn on and boot up (one of my primary reasons for buying the remote starter, my head unit takes a while to boot up) and so that my car could warm up/cool down. I used the Flex relay as the second accessory supply, that is why I hooked up all of the flex relay wires in H3.

[2 Coupes]

This was a concern of mine as well. I just purchased a Kenwood DNX9140 and one of the complaints is the boot up time. This accessory function will be great to combat this negative feature for the 9140.

One last question.

Setting up the bypass:

Where is the (data wire) in the transponder wiring harness which connects to the bypass unit? I am left with this wire from the bypass.

By the way you are the man. After your post I realize how far I really was from actually being ready for the install. Thanks

[Pwnin O'Brien]

The data line on my Pathfinder was Purple/Red which is at the NVIS module behind the key cylinder. It should be a five-wire harness that plugs into the NVIS module.