mass air meter

[yankabilly72]

dose anybody know what the size difference in a 240 and hardbody mass air meter?

[yankabilly72]

i have an 93 kingcab. well i have to replace the timing chain tensioner so i was going to swap in a 240 cam and i was thinking about removing my mass air meter and using a 240 meter in my air intake. that why i was wanting sizes. there won't be any need if there the same size.

[yankabilly72]

looked today and they appear to be the same size so i'm not going to change it untill do a intake swap .

[PEZi]

the difference is the 240 has a different intake mani

and i don't know that i'd use the 240 cam unless you do some other stuff as well cause you'll lose some low end torque while not really gaining much top end

[yankabilly72]

i know that there is a difference in the intake .do you think if i degree the cam or advance the cam timing it help ? the cam is bigger .the power band that the cam makes all has to do with timing what other stuff would you suggest ? (pezi720)
Modified by yankabilly72 at 2:02 PM 11/15/2009

[seang]

^^Why does all your knowledge have to come from Pezi?

[PEZi]

yeah.. the more opinions ya get the better... everyone has different ideas and different goals with what they do...

i personally think what you want to do will be great for the price because all the parts are easy to find... and the timing isn't hard to set up. but you're not going to see as much result as you want... if done right it could be better that what ya got but not as good as getting a proper cam put in it!

[seang]

does anybody know what the size difference in a 240 and hardbody mass air meter?

Yes, the truck version MAF is inside the throttle body like so (circled in red)...[IMG][/IMG]

The 240 MAF is in-line with the intake tract.

I think the electrical plugs might be the same, but I'm not 100% sure on that one.

[PEZi]

is there some reason why they have it setup like that on the truck? i don't see how that would yield any advantage

[seang]

i don't see how that would yield any advantage

Me neither, and it probably doesn't seeing as how it fractions the airflow. I would imagine an in-line MAF to have greater tunability. I don't know why they made it that way, but for stock or almost stock, it works pretty good.

The truck manifold is good for something, and that is good low/mid-range flow/velocities, but the lower flow rate = more high rpm pumping losses.

All in all, and especially for a 4wd, the truck mani isn't the worst idea. But if I had a 2wd, a 240 manifold complimented by a PDM c.404 cam would be plan A. Then I would take further tuning ideas from there...

If I were going to rebuild my ka24e, I would go with either NPR .040 over 8.6:1 pistons (130 dollars a set including rings), or the Nismo 9.1:1 pistons (50 dollars a piece not including rings).

If something happened where I couldn't find a 240 manifold at a good price, I wonder what the actual potential of the truck manifold is? Maybe a larger TB could fit with an inline MAF, but IDK for sure. Alot depends on the the runner diameters and lower plenum flow.


Modified by seang at 6:15 PM 11/17/2009

[yankabilly72]

i don't need to rebuild i just need a timing chain tensioner so when i change the tensioner i was going to change to a 240 cam. i can get one for free so why not . the intake is already gone off the motor. when i find one cheap i'll get it too . but until then i was thinking about i'll run the 240 cam and the truck intake with the timing advanced some . how much i don't know but with some trial and adjust and trial again till its right . my truck is 2 wheel drive . it spends most of its time hauling small loads on the highway. i was also thinking of using the 240 ecu too if its still in the car. i live in TN there's no emissions laws here so i've already got rid of my cat . i'd also like to know what other emissions crap i can remove ?
Modified by yankabilly72 at 7:09 PM 11/17/2009

[seang]

Well, you should try it, what have you got to lose? If you can get it for free, then that is badass. You can always change it back if you want to.

Can you also get the lifter assembly from the donor motor? Shop manuals suggest using lifters that came with and were broken in on the same cam so as to avoid accelerated wear, where as if you used the already broken-in truck lifters with the 240 cam, they might seat unevenly on each other.

IDK about degreeing the cam.

You can delete the EGR without ill effect on the engine. I just unplugged the vacuum line to the BPT valve (which controls the EGR valve) and it was effective. No parts were hacked off, and I can hook it back up whenever I want.

The rear o2 sensor is expensive (178 dollars the last I checked), and can just be unplugged and forgotton about as what I've done with mine. I also went so far as to gut the FRONT o2 sensor, and weld it shut. I still get the same MPG even without them. This did not set off my check engine light.

My distributor is advanced all the way clockwise. I run 89 octane without problems. I didn't use a timing light, but listened carefully for any pinging for awhile afterwards, and after about 6 months, I'm confident it's fine.

When the outside temperature is above 60 degrees, I can bypass the TB heater circuit which circulates hot coolant through the throttle body in order for it to idle down once the engine is warm. This is unnecessary with outdoor temps above 60.

I actually modified my thermostat so it opens at a cooler temp (about 140 degrees), and while some people say it's a silly idea (too cold is a bad idea) so far it works. You can also just buy a cooler thermostat from Nismo for about 45 bucks if you don't like the idea of hacking one up. http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=2573

Personally, I would like to try a 20 dollar, 140 degree farenheight thermostat from a Mercruiser, but IDK if it would fit. I mean, how different are thermostats? I haven't measured, but I can tell you that after seeing different units over the years, most thermostats are roughly similar in size. Its hard to find info such as t-stat diameter on here without measuring it myself so that's why IDK.

As far as people telling me that 140 degree coolant temp is gonna wear out my engine, unless I can see real proof, I just don't believe them. 140 degrees is still pretty warm.

The breather on the valve cover should be disconnected from the stock filter box and have a nice little filter installed. The stock breather filter inside the airbox is usually nasty and grimey on a high mileage motor, and a new one like I'm talking about will be alot better.

Breather filters are available at almost any major parts store for about 7 bucks. I made my own from 2-stage filter foam for about 10 cents. Alot of air gets pulled through the breather (not pushed out) increasing with rpm, and the filter should be kept nice and clean.

You can take the stock plastic intake piping off and run it like this. See if it helps.[IMG][/IMG]

That pretty much sums up my motor.
Modified by seang at 7:48 PM 11/17/2009

[yankabilly72]

ya i'm getting the rocker arm assemble with the cam . as for degreeing the cam. i was going to look for an adjustable cam gear if i don't find one i was thinking of having another hole drilled in the cam gear a few degrees advanced like 4 . i'll have a machine shop do it

[seang]

I'm interested to know how the adjustable cam gear idea pans out for you, it sounds cool. I also added a few things to my previous post.

Your truck came stock with plastic backed timing chaing guides that can wear through over time, eat through the front cover, and cause the oil and coolant to mix (not the best scenario). Make sure they are still good when you do the tensioner! If not, you can replace them with guides for 96-97 trucks, which had ka24e's equipped with metal backed timing chain guides and don't wear through like the plastic ones.

Plastic debris from worn timing chain guides can clog the oil galleys in the crank and starve the bearings. This could cause a rod knock. If this happens, the oil galleys would have to be cleared out.
Modified by seang at 8:44 PM 11/17/2009