KA24E wont start

[slowness]

So I recently purchased my first Nissan with a blown head gasket. I have replaced the head gasket and various other seals that went along with the head gasket change. I had marked everything before i went to work and plugged everything back in where it went. It is timed right. I have ran a timing gun on it and every thing is time correctly. It is getting spark. It is getting fuel. It is getting air. I'm at a loss of what else to check. Any other trouble shooting steps that any of you may know would help a lot.

Thanks.

Here are some pictures of the car and the engine bay.

[moso]

its possible you have your dizzy in 180deg from where its supposed to be, if so its firing between the exhaust and intake strokes instead of between the compression and combustion strokes.

[slowness]

its possible you have your dizzy in 180deg from where its supposed to be, if so its firing between the exhaust and intake strokes instead of between the compression and combustion strokes.

We have pulled off the distributor and cap several times set the first spark plug at top dead of the compression stroke. The only way we could tell that it was TDC of the compression stroke was by holding our finger over the spark plug hole while turning it over and wait for it to blow the air out. After we had it at TDC we marked the distributor down from where the number one plug wire was and lined the dizzy up with that mark. So i dont think that is the prob.

[moso]

have you checked to see if your getting good compression, make sure you test it with no spark plugs at all and the throttle open. how did you check to see if its getting fuel?

[slowness]

We have yet to check for compression. When we pulled the plugs it was obvious that it was getting fuel. Also when we removed the fuel lines in sprayed out with quite a bit of pressure. It seams like it wants to start the first time we try after letting it sit. It starts to fire and then it kind of stops and just keeps trying to turn over.

[moso]

it looks like your plug wires are in wrong. no1 should be top left on dizzy or at 11o'clock looking from the driver side fender. firing order is 1-3-4-2 and it goes counter clockwise. good luck.

[slowness]

it looks like your plug wires are in wrong. no1 should be top left on dizzy or at 11o'clock looking from the driver side fender. firing order is 1-3-4-2 and it goes counter clockwise. good luck.

Nope, we have made sure they are on correctly. I got the book and have put them on per the book. which is same as what you said.

[moso]

the picture shows your no1 cyl pluged in at the no2 spot dont believe everything you read.

[slowness]

the picture shows your no1 cyl pluged in at the no2 spot dont believe everything you read.

I may have taken these pictures before i moved them back. (i tried a couple different ways of putting the plug wires on to see if i got any change) but i have put them in the correct position now. If your looking at it from the driver side fender i have it as.

4 3

2 1

[moso]

i believe it should be 1234as it spins counter clockwise 1 is in the 11oclock or so position firing order is 1-3-4-2 as you have it its 180 out and firing between the exhaust and intake strokes.

[slowness]

i believe it should be 1234as it spins counter clockwise 1 is in the 11oclock or so position firing order is 1-3-4-2 as you have it its 180 out and firing between the exhaust and intake strokes.

I have tried it in that position also, but with less of a result. The way i have them now it will start firing at the beginning, but after the initial fire it does nothing. When the number 1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke, the dizzy is pointed down at where your number 4 wire is. So i put the number 1 wire on your number for and went 1342 from there.

(btw thanks for further trouble shooting.)

[moso]

i think you dizzy is installed 180 out then. i believe that would cause your injectors to fire at the wrong time as the crank angle sensor is in the dizzy.
Modified by moso at 8:32 AM 11/15/2009

[slowness]

the picture shows your no1 cyl pluged in at the no2 spot dont believe everything you read.

I may have taken these pictures before i moved them back. (i tried a couple different ways of putting the plug wires on to see if i got any change) but i have put them in the correct position now. If your looking at it from the driver side fender i have it as.

4 3

2 1

[moso]

no1 is supposed to be top left, the ecu thinks thats where the no1 plug is. it also uses that mark to time the injector firing. simply moving the wire to where the rotor is wont work. it is supposed to be installed in a certain way. im not saying move the wires arround, im saying reinstall your dizzy and move the wires arround.
Modified by moso at 8:25 PM 11/15/2009

[sharpshooter33]

recently had problems with my KA24E flooding out. Took the fuse out for the fuel pump and turned it over a few....fired right up.Not saying this is your problem, but it was mine. Not sure why other than I believe I've go an injector sticking open and dumping fuel. It's intermittent for me.

Good Luckmy .02SS33

[slowness]

no1 is supposed to be top left, the ecu thinks thats where the no1 plug is. it also uses that mark to time the injector firing. simply moving the wire to where the rotor is wont work. it is supposed to be installed in a certain way. im not saying move the wires arround, im saying reinstall your dizzy and move the wires arround.

Modified by moso at 8:25 PM 11/15/2009

I am not familiar with how to reinstall the Dizzy. Does the book explain? (I'm at work and cant check it out)

[moso]

it should, if it doesn't you can try the Factory Service Manual, search here for FSM. or just ask.

[kingkong8247]

The wires on the dizzy should be4321

not 1234

Number 1 cylinder plug wire will be in the bottom right of the cap if looking at it standing over the driver side fender. When the engine is TDC the rotor will point this way as well.

If the dizzy is 180* out what you need to do is put the engine in TDC. Pull the oil pump. Move the dizzy so the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder. Have a friend hold the rotor or duct tape it in place and reinstall oil pump. PITA but it works.

Modified by kingkong8247 at 9:08 PM 11/16/2009
Modified by kingkong8247 at 9:16 PM 11/16/2009

[moso]

wow, im really sorry. he is correct. i stand corrected. your wires are correct. im going to shut up now.

[kingkong8247]

wow, im really sorry. he is correct. i stand corrected. your wires are correct. im going to shut up now.

You got the firing order correct though.

[JoshuaTowler]

Have you gotten the engine to run yet?

[SiDwAyZ240]

I'm not familiar with s single cam, but does the dizzy have a camshaft position sensor? The manual tells how to check it and it had me confused for 2 weeks till I learned how to use a multi meter. New dizzy = fired right up.

[kingkong8247]

I'm not familiar with s single cam, but does the dizzy have a camshaft position sensor? The manual tells how to check it and it had me confused for 2 weeks till I learned how to use a multi meter. New dizzy = fired right up.

The camshaft position sensor is integrated into the dizzy.

[slowness]

I still have yet to get the Car to run. It's starting to get really frustrating. I'm at a loss to what to do next.

At TDC the dizzy points to the bottom right side (no.1 plug wire). We have hooked up a timing light to it and everything is time correctly.

We did notice that the fuel was slightly leaking out of the top of the Fuel Injectors. We removed the fuel rail and replaced all the O rings on the injectors. This stopped the leak but it didn't resolve the issue.

[moso]

you need to get a compression test done. top of the list. after all this it really seems like you got your timing right. it really looks like all your wiring is done right from the pictures so all that leaves is compression and faulty electronics. lets get compression out of the way cause its a big one. after that your gonna want to test and adjust the throttle position sensor, crank angle sensor (requires removing the dizzy again sorry), and flash test the ecu. all these procedures are in the FSM and are fairly easy to do.

[slowness]

you need to get a compression test done. top of the list. after all this it really seems like you got your timing right. it really looks like all your wiring is done right from the pictures so all that leaves is compression and faulty electronics. lets get compression out of the way cause its a big one. after that your gonna want to test and adjust the throttle position sensor, crank angle sensor (requires removing the dizzy again sorry), and flash test the ecu. all these procedures are in the FSM and are fairly easy to do.

Again, I thank you for all the information you have provided. I have a friend coming in town this weekend with a compression tester. We will start there, and fallow your list down. Hopefully we can get this resolved this weekend. This is my first RWD car and I want to drive it

[JoshuaTowler]

Do you have a digital multimeter?

[slowness]

Okay, so i have tried a lot of stuff to try to get this issue resolved. After getting very frustrated I decided to take off the throttle body and take the ole wire wheel to it to clean it up. When I took it off i noticed puddles in the intake manifold. It was definitely gasoline. So some where with in all the mess of everything the timing got off and I couldn't figure out how.

So, this being my first head gasket replace I didn't notice something the first time around. The right tensioner guide had been destroyed. So we took off the timing cover and started cleaning everything up so we could put the new tensioner guides on that i got from the parts store. In the prossess of cleaning the silicone off the timing chain case we noticed that the car had been running for quite some time with out that tensioner guide. The chain had warn threw the case right were the coolant is transported into the block.

So the head gasket wasn't even the problem in the first place. We have every thing re-timed correctly now and I'm going to have to take a trip to the good ole scrap yard and pick up a new timing case. I will post some pictures of the warn metal later when i get off work.

Just thought i would let you guys know. Thanks for all the help.