$6000 budget: help me make a decision

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bm3r
Posts: 120
Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 2:20 pm
Car: 98 240sx

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Hey everyone, coming from an 04 M3 with $30k plus invested, im ready to start a new project with a budget. Ive been doing tons of research, check out my I have below:

-98 S14: Check-Staggered Nismo LMGT4's: Check-Tein SS C/O's: Check -OEM front lip: Check

Now for the $6000 max budget w/labor (on the road):

1. S14 SR20det Black Top w/VTC (engine transmission ecu)2. Labor cost 3. 3" down pipe 4. FMIC-Greddy5. Apexi N1 exhaust6. s14 install kit for fuel pump7. Walbro 255 fuel pump8. Auto to manual swap-pedal asembly, clutch master cylinder,etc (my car is Automatic)9. Clutch lines and fittings10. Battery relo kit to trunk if needeed11. Short ram air Intake12. Air conditioning to work13. AEM Uego/gauge controller14. AEM boost gauge/controller15. Dyno/Tune with stock ECU16. HKS SS BOV Series 317. Competition stage 4 clutch18. Competition clutch lightweight flywheel19. s14 Greddy intake manifold/plenum20. Fuel rail and injectors21. Turbo timer22. Koyo radiator

What I have listed is more than $6000, but I need to know which I can eliminate etc.? Remember my car is an Auto.

Would you go with a different SR swap?

I plan to keep the stock turbo, stock head, stock block for now.

My WHP goal is 275-300

Ive read that with the setup above ranges from 230WHP-260WHP?

TIA for your help!

Bonus pic-made 310WHP All motor:



In with the New:



ericb382
Posts: 60
Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2005 4:40 pm
Car: 96 s14

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First off I never would have sold that e46 (my future car... someday....)

Scrap the greddy IM. If you're staying with the stock turbo you can scrap the inj./rail also. I would go with an s13 sr if I was you. Well, I did even though I am me, but even if I was you I would still go s13.... The money you save would be enough to throw a bigger turbo on there. If you're still over budget ditch the flywheel (I like mine, but not massive difference) and the intake (you will probably need a new one when you upgrade your turbo anyway.) I know someone on here will probably argue with me about the intake because they've been brainwashed into thinking that intake has to be the first thing you change, but STFU in advance, it's my opinion and I'm sticking with it.

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DuckyD
Posts: 504
Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 6:27 am
Car: 1995 240SX
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ericb382 wrote:I know someone on here will probably argue with me...
I agree with this guy.The parts you have listed will be over $6k if you buy new and from reputible sellers. Labor is another thing all together.

I wouldnt bother the Greddy Intake Manifold, you will lose low-end torque. If you really need an intake manifold, get the ISIS mani at 1/3 the price.

Don't get a HKS SSQV. Everyone has them (including me). If you are getting tuning, get something that sounds cooler (like a Greddy Type-R).

With the parts listed, you should be over 300hp on an Enthalpy tune.
Modified by DuckyD at 2:23 PM 11/9/2009

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rc1honda
Posts: 585
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:25 am
Car: 1992 240 sx
2007 BMW 335xi
2008 Honda CBR1000RR
Location: Chicago burbs

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GReddy doesn't make a SSQV BOV. The HKS SSQV btw is the best bov on the market in my opinion. Self adjusting and sounds the best.

To the OP,

Seeing as you are not going to do the labor or swap yourself I think your are going about this the compleltly wrong way. You said you like to drive the car not work on it which i respect. Swaps are labor intensive and so is anykind of engione work. You are going to pay way to much in labor alone to justify this kind work.

What you should do, and i really think you will be happier with more money this way.

You should sell the kouki you have now for 6.5-7.5K or whatever you can get for it. Take the 12 grand you have now, Then get back on these forums and buy a car that has been already built.

There are a lot of great s14's for sale on the forums right now. This way the work is all done and you can foucus on what you like to do most which is driving. See some people build these great cars and motors then sell them right when they get done. See for some people building it is all the fun, they can care less about driving. These are the cars you wanna buy.

Someone else spends all the money and you reap the benefits. I can tell you first hand that building a car and doing swaps, is not the way to stay on a budget at all. I will never build another S-chassis ever again, they are money pits and you never get what you paid back out of them.

Here is a car a found while looking in the Nissans for sale section here.

zer...t-11k

Also im sure this guy would take 9,500 cash for the car if you showed up on his doorstep. Sell your car take the money and buy a pre-built car.

Modified by rc1honda at 2:19 PM 11/9/2009
Modified by rc1honda at 2:20 PM 11/9/2009

bm3r
Posts: 120
Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 2:20 pm
Car: 98 240sx

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DuckyD wrote:
I agree with this guy.The parts you have listed will be over $6k if you buy new and from reputible sellers. Labor is another thing all together.

I wouldnt bother the Greddy Intake Manifold, you will lose low-end torque. If you really need an intake manifold, get the ISIS mani at 1/3 the price.

Don't get a HKS SSQV. Everyone has them (including me). If you are getting tuning, get something that sounds cooler (like a Greddy Type-R).

With the parts listed, you should be over 300hp on an Enthalpy tune.

Modified by DuckyD at 2:23 PM 11/9/2009
ok I will pass on the intake manifold.

how does the enthalpy tune work? are you talking alcohol water injection of some sort?

the greddy type-r is nice but I like the high pitch "passsink" noise vs the "woosh" haha

bm3r
Posts: 120
Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 2:20 pm
Car: 98 240sx

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rc1honda wrote:GReddy doesn't make a SSQV BOV. The HKS SSQV btw is the best bov on the market in my opinion. Self adjusting and sounds the best.

To the OP,

Seeing as you are not going to do the labor or swap yourself I think your are going about this the compleltly wrong way. You said you like to drive the car not work on it which i respect. Swaps are labor intensive and so is anykind of engione work. You are going to pay way to much in labor alone to justify this kind work.

What you should do, and i really think you will be happier with more money this way.

You should sell the kouki you have now for 6.5-7.5K or whatever you can get for it. Take the 12 grand you have now, Then get back on these forums and buy a car that has been already built.

There are a lot of great s14's for sale on the forums right now. This way the work is all done and you can foucus on what you like to do most which is driving. See some people build these great cars and motors then sell them right when they get done. See for some people building it is all the fun, they can care less about driving. These are the cars you wanna buy.

Someone else spends all the money and you reap the benefits. I can tell you first hand that building a car and doing swaps, is not the way to stay on a budget at all. I will never build another S-chassis ever again, they are money pits and you never get what you paid back out of them.

Here is a car a found while looking in the Nissans for sale section here.

zer...t-11k

Also im sure this guy would take 9,500 cash for the car if you showed up on his doorstep. Sell your car take the money and buy a pre-built car.

Modified by rc1honda at 2:19 PM 11/9/2009

Modified by rc1honda at 2:20 PM 11/9/2009
thanks for the link, ive been searching for a super nice s14 for over 6 months. i dont want a car with cosmetic issues, all painted up, different body panels, body kit, replaced body panels, or frame damage.

my car has 87k miles, no dents, no scratches, the interior is mint, no missing peices, its a very very nice car.

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DuckyD
Posts: 504
Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 6:27 am
Car: 1995 240SX
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bm3r wrote:how does the enthalpy tune work? are you talking alcohol water injection of some sort?
Enthalpy (and JWT) are just Rom-Tuned, kinda like chipping your stock ECU.You send your ECU in (or he can send you a new ECU and you send him back your core) and he solders chips to your ECU and then can program stuff in.

You're looking at $400 which isn't bad IMO.

I actually just got a tune for my stock'ish s13 blacktop. Still on t25, still on stock fuel, and the car feels much much better. Doesn't fall on it's face after 5000rpm like it used ot. Before I was dyno'ing at 225hp and Martin @ Enthalpy was claiming this tune was good for as much as 270hp. My butt-dyno seems to have to agree.

bm3r
Posts: 120
Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 2:20 pm
Car: 98 240sx

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DuckyD wrote:
Enthalpy (and JWT) are just Rom-Tuned, kinda like chipping your stock ECU.You send your ECU in (or he can send you a new ECU and you send him back your core) and he solders chips to your ECU and then can program stuff in.

You're looking at $400 which isn't bad IMO.

I actually just got a tune for my stock'ish s13 blacktop. Still on t25, still on stock fuel, and the car feels much much better. Doesn't fall on it's face after 5000rpm like it used ot. Before I was dyno'ing at 225hp and Martin @ Enthalpy was claiming this tune was good for as much as 270hp. My butt-dyno seems to have to agree.
what are your mods? is that 270 to the wheels?

so the mods I have listed above plus the enthalpy tune will give me 270 whp?

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DuckyD
Posts: 504
Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 6:27 am
Car: 1995 240SX
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I have no way to verify 270hp. I am just saying I know I was at 230hp and it feels noticably quicker, so I believe Martin@Enthalpy's claim. I might get some dyno time towards the holidays, but we will see.

S14 SR, I believe you should make over 300hp. Still, it doesn't take much to make 240's quick.


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