Come help me pick apart my problem

[Yellow4g63]

Ok here is the problem, I can't seem to get my car to idle unless I pull the big vacuum line off that goes to the break booster. If I leave it on and try to start the car it just won't turn over. The air fuel ratio while it's cranking with no vacuum leak is like 10ish, with it off it's around 14ish and when it fires up it's at 16ish. So when I fire it up with the vacuum leak that car will ilde high but it will stay running until I seal up the leak then the airfuel ratio shoots to the 10's and the car stalls out. I tried to unplug the maf to get it to idle and it just won't do it. Checked the ecu for codes but none all is good. I thought maybe my injectors were dirty and they were a little from the report I got back after I had them cleaned and balanced. I'm running 824cc Sard injectors with a Nistune Ecu and Denso 280lph fuel pump. I also reprogrammed my nistune and tried it another Rb20 and that car fired up like normal. I'm at a very big loss because I have never seen this before.

[USMCgetsome]

wait was it running before the nistune was installed? and also if you changed the maps and it runs fine i'd have to say nistune board. Check the ribbon cable of the board and ensure its connected properly.

[Yellow4g63]

It ran with the nistune it had too lol. 824cc injectors and a lightning maf. This just all happened a few weeks ago.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3FSWRsPtL0

[USMCgetsome]

yellow wtf you need the radiator hooked up with coolant. If the coolant sensor doesn't see water temp of some sort it will not help the cold start loop in the ecu!

[Yellow4g63]

It is now thats a old vid from when I got it to start for the 1st time in 4 or so years lol.