1997 Nissan Pathfinder Missing at idle??

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
slow3.3
Posts: 27
Joined: Sat Jun 12, 2004 7:48 am
Car: 97 Path, JWT Stg 1 Cams, Flowmaster exhaust, Stillen Intake, Ported & Polished Heads, Nismo Thermost

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Just like the title says I have a 1997 Pathfinder that has recently developed a miss at idle and when in drive but stationary. Whenever I start to drive the miss goes away and the path runs great. The code that was pulled was "random cylinder misfire." I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor and yet the miss persists. The only other thing left in the ignition system is to replace the entire distributor but I want to save this as a last resort option. Any other ideas?? Your input is appreciated


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Empty V
Posts: 2308
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:53 am
Car: 2001 Infiniti QX4
1982 Chevy Corvette C3 Shark

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slow3.3 wrote:Just like the title says I have a 1997 Pathfinder that has recently developed a miss at idle and when in drive but stationary. Whenever I start to drive the miss goes away and the path runs great. The code that was pulled was "random cylinder misfire." I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor and yet the miss persists. The only other thing left in the ignition system is to replace the entire distributor but I want to save this as a last resort option. Any other ideas?? Your input is appreciated
I'm having the same problem right now with my 3.5. A while ago I got a misfire #5 code. I changed my plugs last year and I've heard that the coil packs can go bad.

Billy

slow3.3
Posts: 27
Joined: Sat Jun 12, 2004 7:48 am
Car: 97 Path, JWT Stg 1 Cams, Flowmaster exhaust, Stillen Intake, Ported & Polished Heads, Nismo Thermost

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The 3.3 does not have coil packs like the 3.5 does. I already replaced the spark plug wires and that didn't solve my problem. I'm thinking that since this problem is only evident at idle that it may be the idle air control valve......maybe.......??

SandyWatson
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Nov 17, 2009 1:09 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan Pathfinder

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I've got the same car, the same problem, and the same code (well that one and one about the knock sensor, which I'm told is likely from the same problem). Only for me it happened immediately after replacing the timing belt, so I assume it has to be that. I'm getting back to it as soon as I can. I don't know if it's a timing belt problem for you, but I'll let you know how it goes when I get it sorted. Or maybe I'm wrong, and it's not my timing belt, in which case I'll be grateful if you figure it out and pass the info along.

slow3.3
Posts: 27
Joined: Sat Jun 12, 2004 7:48 am
Car: 97 Path, JWT Stg 1 Cams, Flowmaster exhaust, Stillen Intake, Ported & Polished Heads, Nismo Thermost

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I took the car to a shop and they told me that it was due to dirty fuel injectors, they cleaned the system and the problem disappeared, for a little while. I was told that if it happened again that it was most likely due to a failing injector and that it where I am right now. I am searching for a set of remanufactured injectors because while I have the engine apart I might as well replace them all........

jjames35
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:39 pm

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I'm having the same problem as sandywatson, does anyone know why I'm getting a random misfire after changing the timing belt?

ARKQX33V6
Posts: 705
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 3:35 pm

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jjames35 wrote:I'm having the same problem as sandywatson, does anyone know why I'm getting a random misfire after changing the timing belt?
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More a chance thing, but running high octane when regular is speced can cause high carbon deposits, a build up of compression.

Remove distributor cap, wires and plugs...number all to keep the same. Cap clean and moisture check, use brake cleaner then a good contact cleaner. Dry, then clean every wire HT lead with brake cleaner then contact cleaner the and examine for breaks in wire, and good contact within the cap and boots on the plugs, any breaks in wire replace all leads. Examine plugs...look for condition of male threads, look for soot, crap in the gap area, colour of plug insulator should be tan, too cold a plug may require a hotter heat range. Standard plugs with normal running are tan in colour and a normal heat range, but if you drive aggressively under faster speeds for a prolonged time the heat range should be changed.

Verify the block where the plugs are inserted has a good ground, 0 ohms with a multimeter at X1, if not add a new ground strap to the block and ground to the body and make sure the battery - and + are clean and check the -ve ground.

Reassemble and keep the HT leads from running parallel next to each other.

Inspect the distributor main plate, LED, timing window lube the shaft and blow clean, make sure power supply is good and electronics are dust free.

Check timing and ensure advance system does move forward and does not stick, with a timing light. Test.


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