anything else as long as you remove alternator from bottom. You will have to remove

the cover that protects bottom of engine if it is still in place. I would say

removing this alternator is pretty easy.

*** NOTE ***:

The best price is likely from a shop that specializes in rebuilding alternators and

starters. Listed under auto electrical in phone book. There is normally a refundable

core charge. You could also try junk yard if you are short of funds. Ebay seems to

have very good prices.

Difficulty 2

Time 1 -2hrs

Costs $100 - $150 depending where you buy it

Materials Remanufactured Alternator

Tools Ratchets, closed end wrenches

Procedure

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.( VERY IMPORTANT IN THIS CASE)
2. Disconnect black wire at (labeled m)alternator with 8mm wrench. Disconnect white

wire with 10mm wrench(labeled battery). Unplug the main alternator plug.(squeeze to release)
3. Back off the tensioner bolt a bit to give yourself some room. Use 14mm socket and

access from the top.

4.Completely remove the bolt that connects tensioner to alternator. Your tensioner

will now be dangling a bit.(access from under car)

5.Completely remove the pivot bolt with 14mm socket (access from under car). There is

an odd shaped nut at the other end. The bolt only threads into this nut and passes

through alternator and alternator bracket without any threads. You will need to use

small locking pliers on bolt and hit with a rock to get the bolt out. The lower fan shroud

will get in the way a bit but you can do this without removing the shroud.

6. I used a small rock to bang the alternator off the alternator bracket. The

alternator than comes down through the bottom. You have to twist the alternator to

steer it out to freedom.

7. Reinstall is reverse of uninstall. Use a screwdriver to help align the hole for

pivot bolt. clean pivot bolt so it slides easier.

End of removal instructions

Description of pivot bolt and tensioner:

There is a 14mm bolt at bottom(alternator pivots on this bolt) and the two 14mm bolts

associated with tensioner at top. The bottom bolt(pivot bolt) and the bolt that

locks tensioner to engine , face front of car. The bolt(long bolt) used to adjust

tension is accessed from passenger side of car.

You don't need to pry the alternator to tighten it. Tightening the tensioner will

tighten the belt. Once you have tightened the tensioner, the alternator is fixed in

place. The pivot bolt and the tensioner locking bolt can be loose and the

alternator will still be fixed in place.

IMPORTANT you have to back off the tensioner and loosen the pivot bolt and

tensioner locking bolt before alternator will move to allow removal of belt. Three

things to loosen before the alternator is free to move!

Belt deflection specs:

ALTERNATOR:
-belt deflection with engine cold mm(inches)
.....max limit 11 (0.43)
.....adjusting used belt 7-8 (0.28-0.31)
.....new belt 6-7 ( 0.24-0.28)

pivot

top of alt

Alternator bracket. One per car of course. Bracket is connected to engine. You can

put end of hammer handle on square nut and push the alternator back to tight position

and vice versa.

from 1991 factory service manual

Note that there are two types of alternator so confirm which is for your car:

Hitachi Alternator

Mitsubishi alternator

Links

alternator testing

Originally Posted by vancouverbc