2000 I30 Starting Issues

[dlkreations]

Hello,

I have seen various threads relating to this issue, but this is more of a clarification to these other threads

My wife's I30 has starting issues. After she drives the car, she will come out and it won't start. It does not turn over, or make any clicking sounds at all. She tried it one time in the morning, after taking our son to school, and it wouldn't start. When I came home that night, it started right up.

I had the battery replaced a year ago because it was doing this exact same thing. Yet it still continues. So I had the battery checked again, and they said the battery is still at full charge. The alternator is good as well and I have replaced the starter.

We were out the other day and it happened again, so I had some jumper cables and asked someone to give me a jump start. The car started right up.

I am sure this is an ignition issue, because when running the car for a while, it seems like it is is getting too hot. It's just odd that it won't start on its own, but if it's jumped it starts right away, or if it's left for a while it will start fine.

Our check engine light it on as well. We had a lot of work done recently on the car, and light went off. All of a sudden it came back on. He replaced all the coils and replaced the spark plugs with NGK.

A buddy of mine hooked up a machine to the car, and we got this code here:

P1320 - Ignition Signal Primary? (I think) Would this be the whole ignition, or just the ignition switch?

Thank you all for you time, I really appreciate any knowledge and help you may have.

Don
Modified by dlkreations at 2:18 PM 7/18/2009

[loystock]

Regarding the starter, based on the fact that that your car runs when jump-started, then the problem could be your battery and/or the battery connections. Disconnect the battery connectors and clean the battery leads and connectors with steel brush. You can apply battery terminal protectant (available from AutoZone). Reconnect the battery connectors and measure the battery voltage. It must be 12.5VDC or more. If not, you have a weak battery or you alternator is not recharging it properly. While you are there, there is no harm in checking the fusible links in the fuse box (besides the battery) and your connections to the starter.

Have someone start the car while measuring the battery voltage. During cranking the voltage may drop to @11VDC (but not lower than 10VDC, indicating a weak battery). Once the engine is running, the alternator should be charging the battery and the voltage must be @ 14VDC (anything less than 13.8VDC or more than 15.5VDC indicates problem with your charging system/alternator).

Now for your DTC P1320, the CEL came on a few days after after replacing the coil pack and spark plugs. The question is, did they use OEM quality coils and plugs? Did they torque the plugs to spec (14-22 ft-lbs? Did they use dielectric grease on the coil pack connectors? The shop which handled this job should give you at least a 3-month warranty (my shop gives 6 months). Take it back to them for warranty repair. While there you can ask them to check the condenser (should be 1 M-ohm or higher).

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor can also contribute to misfire, It's mounted in the air inlet duct close to the air filter box. You can take out that assembly and use a no-residue contact cleaner on the MAF sensing element (inside the duct). DO NOT TOUCH THE MAF SENSING ELEMENT. Another one is your ground points for the fuel injectors, If you follow the harness for the fuel injectors, front bank, you will find 2 ground wires bolted to the engine. Clean them and apply dielectric grease on installation.

It's possible that your P1320 problem may be with the harness (not uncommon in I30/4th Gen Maxima). The harness carries the low-voltage signal from the ECM (Engine Control Module) to the coil packs. With the engine running, try wiggling the main harness and see if there is any change in engine performance.

[audtatious]

^^^ What he said....

For more information on the error code, you can check out the FSM for troubleshooting here:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/i30/2001/ec.pdf

[dlkreations]

I had the battery and alternator checked already, and both were to be good. I replaced the starter as well about 8 months ago, and the problem still persists.

I also checked the starter connections last week, and just to be sure I went ahead and unhooked them and reconnected them again. I have also cleaned both the terminals and cables and applied terminal protectant. I did not however check the fuse link, which I will do today.

As far as then repair shop using quality OEM parts; yes they did because they couldn't stress enough about the use of those versus after market items.

My questions is, how could the MAF be an issue with misfire, when it isn't even firing at all? When I turn the key, there isn't even a click. I know that could sound like a starter problem, but it did this before and after replacing the starter.

I will try cleaning all the things you suggested though and see what happens. My only problem is that this only happens when it wants to, so it is difficult to know exactly when it will occur.

I truly appreciate the reply. I am just not that literate when it comes to repairing these newer vehicles.

[audtatious]

Check the ignition switch and see if you can validate voltages at the ECU for ignition. You should find this information in the FSM as I don't know it off hand...

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/i30/2001/

Also, look here: zerothread/319131

[dlkreations]

Hi guys, it's been a while since my last post.

It turns out that is was the battery connections...

Now I have another issue that seems to be stemming from the same area. Last night, my wife was saying it was having difficulty starting. I was able to check it tonight, and when I went out to test it, the battery was very low. It cranked over very slowly, and stopped, and then I smelled something electrical burning.

I read somewhere else that this could be the alternator? I am not too sure since I had it checked a few months ago, and they said it was ok.

This car is really beginning to feel like a lemon to me. My wife got it before we were married, and now I have the luxury of trying to repair it when something goes wrong. Very frustrating to say the least.

I would appreciate some feedback to get this issue fixed. Any and all information is greatly appreciated! Thanks.

[audtatious]

Electrical smell could be the alternator, not really sure. Battery being low can be the battery or the alternator as well. Have you gotten it cranked to see if the alt is charging?

[dlkreations]

No, I was trying to get it started last night in order to test it, but I could never get it started. As soon as I smelled whatever was burning, I disconnected the battery to make sure it wasn't something else that could catch on fire.

I am going to try and get it started tonight when I get home from work and take it to Autozone, and see if they can test both the alternator and battery.

The battery is not more than 2 years old, but it doesn't mean it isn't bad. The alternator is one thing I have not changed yet since all these problems have started.

One other thing I have noticed though, is that the emergency brake light on the console stays lit; and has done so since I have changed all the battery cables and connections. Somehow though, all this has to be related to the problems I am experiencing, but I am not completely sure.

[loystock]

Looks like your alternator is dying or is already dead. If you're able to start your car, check the battery voltage. If the alternator is charging, the voltage should be 13.8VDC or more.

The weak battery may be due to your failing alternator or something else. Have you or anyone done a modification in the car involving routing wires thru the firewall? If not properly protected/insulated, it could cause a short circuit. Also check the main wiring for stripped insulation.

[dlkreations]

Thanks for replying. I have done no modifications to the car so I can hopefully rule that out.

I went out to try the car when I got home from work; I reconnected the battery and tried starting it and all I got was a very weak crank. I asked my father-in-law to give me a jump to see if it would start, and it maybe cranked twice and still no start.

We let it sit there for roughly 10 minutes in total connected and tried it various times during that 10 minutes and it still didn't start. He went looking for his battery charger but seemed to have misplaced it.

So, I still have not been able to get it started to try and test it out, but it is looking like I may have to change my battery as well as the alternator, if it is in fact the alternator. Everywhere I have looked up information leads to it being the problem but looks like it may have taken out my battery in the process. I haven't had the battery no more than 2 years, so it should still be covered under warranty replacement.

Would all these problems with the alternator/battery have something to do with the emergency brake light staying on as well at the console?

Thanks for all your time and answers, I greatly appreciate it!

[dlkreations]

Sorry for the double post, but if it is the alternator, what brand would a good one to buy.

I checked out AutoZone, Kragen and NAPA and the prices are roughly the same.

[loystock]

The Brake light comes on if the brake reservoir level is low or the alternator is failing, but is usually accompanied by other lights.

Don't buy an alternator unless you have confirmed it's bad. Best place to buy OEM parts is from IoS, inifnitipartsUSA.com @ 25% off MSRP. Of course there will be a delay due to shipping. If you have to buy non-OEM alternator, avoid Kragen.

You jump-started the car and yet it still won't start (just crank) is an indication that you have problems aside from the battery-alternator. The car should have started but will die once the jumper cable is disconnected, if the alternator is bad.

In your original post, you have code 1320 and your mechanic replaced all the coils and plugs. It's possible that the Crank Position Sensor is malfunctioning. Your mechanics should have checked them before replacing all the coils and plugs. Also, perform a 'spark test' to see if the ignition system is working. Procedures are available from the FSM. You need to buy or borrow an OBD II scanner to find out if you have fault codes.

Another possibility is a bad harness or connection to the ECM or even poor ground connection. Did you clean the ground connections as I recommended in the earlier posting? If you haven't done so, remove them and clean the terminal lugs and the grounding point. The ground wires are located on top of the engine, besides the intake plenum, close to cylinder #2. After installation, apply dielectric grease to avoid oxidation (corrosion). Also, before attempting another start, try to wiggle the main harness. You may have a loose connection there. As for checking the connections to the ECM, although it's in the FSM (linked given to you by "audtatious"), it would be better to have it done by your mechanic. Also, ensure the MAF sensor connector is clean. Use a zero-residue contact cleaner to clean it and then apply dielectric grease to avoid corrosion.

You may also have problem with the fuel delivery - faulty pump, fuse and/or clogged fuel filter. The fuel pump is located in the tank and is accessible from the rear seat, pax side. Turn the ignition to ON (do not start) and listen for the pump - it should hum (not whine) for @ 5 secs then shut down. If Ok, then you have to check the fuel pressure. The best way to verify this is by connecting a fuel pressure gauge. Ensure the fuel line is empty before doing so - FIRE HAZARD. With ignition ON (engine not running) pressure should be @ 43 psi. If the engine is running, the pressure is @ 34 psi.

[dlkreations]

That is definitely a lot to digest in one sitting. I have had to read it 4 times to get all my thoughts together.

As for the brake light coming on, the check engine light also remains on. Sorry for not adding that to the list on my previous post.

Thanks for the suggestion on avoiding Kragen, and I don't care for most of the products they carry anyway. Unfortunately, I may have to buy an aftermarket part since this is the only car we have and need it as soon as humanly possible. I have my work cut out for me this weekend to say the least.

As for me not being there, nor taking the car in originally, I cannot say what all was replaced/fixed, but will look at the form he gave us on the work that was done.

As for cleaning the connections per your recommendation; yes I was able to clean everything that I possibly could. But that doesn't mean I may have overlooked something while in the process. I will do a double check this weekend while I have everything taken apart.

My neighbor across the street mentioned that it may be the starter again. My wife took the battery to get tested, and they said it was good. I bought the starter at Autozone, so I will take that and have it tested again, as well as the alternator and kill two birds with one stone. Hopefully they are still good, yet at the same time I also hope they are bad to narrow down the problems.

Now as for my neighbor, he was outside when I tried starting it again last night after the battery was checked. All I got was a click and nothing else. Which is why he thinks the starter went out again. The engine refused to even turn over. So it's like the same issue I had in the beginning. It could be possible that the electrical smell came from the starter itself, and not the alternator as originally thought.

Since the time change here in CA, I have not been able to look at it because I get home well after dark now, and lighting is not possible. Hopefully I will be able to get something this weekend, an get it all straightened out.

Again, I thank you for your time with this. I greatly appreciate it.