If I had a HB these days the only engine I would consider is a turbo vg(SOHC) because its super in-expensive and can make power and torque than the SR, plus how can you beat the sound of a 6cyl? peace.

the easyest cheapest route is
t28 from a s14 240sx
550cc injectors
cheap cast exhaust manifold
muffler shop downpipe and exhaust
enthalpy rom tuned ecu
cheapo intercooler kit
300zx maf

basically a done deal and not much fab. the ka has a long stroke and good displacement so with a small turbo, lots of low end torque is possible. and 10 psi out of a t28 isnt gonna hurt a ka.

Finally! Someone else who has REAL experience. It drives me nut how people listen to shops and not their wallet. I have known so many kids who've done the SR swaps through shops and its cost them close to 4-6k. Where as the system you described above is maybe 1200 bucks. lol! Its just crazy. peace.

Would this work on a pathfinder too??

'98 Pathfinder XE "Momo" (R.i.P)

Do you also think there's no such thing as 800hp l-6 engines? Broaden your knowledge of engines before generalizing the features of certain engines. peace.

BTW, just checked your username. I remeber you from over in the KA section when I used to troll through there, you've heard all this stuff before. Especially from some of the old school guys like deviousKA, and Jason grey.
Heck you've done a couple cool KA builds in the past right?

Modified by nismopu at 8:08 PM 10/4/2008

Not to start a crazy debate here, fact is what you want from your exhaust is an increased diameter in exhaust. It isn't possible to get the exhaust ports large enough for the flow it will demand. On a KA24de you have 2 exhaust valves which increases curtain space. Exhaust ports are determined on curtain space, not necesarilly the size valve that is used. In comparison a KA24de head flows 1/3 more effecient in CFM when flow tested on a flow bench. Stock for stock the DE head is considerably better. Thats all the fact I would need to determine exhaust flow rate, more curtain space, equals better flow.
You could enlarge a KAe exhaust valve and port the exhaust but then again we would be talking about doing a considerable amount of work, and time is money...

Now the 4g63 is an entirely different bread of engine, and why you would compare a KA to a 4g baffles me.... They don't have the same boreXstroke ratio's nore are there rev ranges and redlines the same......
Now my understanding is that oil misting (through crank windage) is what inevetabily drops oil pressure. This can easily be resolved with a crank scraper and windage tray, which would actually increase HP in a state of higher rev. You can get windage trays and scrapers for under a $150 and they are easy to install. A KA needs oil squirters, the KA has a long rod stroke which means that there is much frictional loss between piston pin and rod assembly as well as piston rings. Not to mention the KA uses thin ring lands to reduce frictional loss which is overall bad if you try to increase to much boost pressure, so in this case oil squirters would be desired... If you look at Brian Crowers stroker kit, the kit is redesigned with adjusted pin height and thickened ring lands and revs to about 9000RPM with titanium retainer and spring valve assembly.
You don't see SR20det guy's removing there oil squirters do you? Oh but then again the sr as well uses windage louvers to reduce oil misting.

Quote, originally posted by nismopu »

BTW, just checked your username. I remeber you from over in the KA section when I used to troll through there, you've heard all this stuff before. Especially from some of the old school guys like deviousKA, and Jason grey. Heck you've done a couple cool KA builds in the past right?

Thats right. Right now my car is in the process of a paint job and the KA engine is getting stripped down for an internal rebuild. I work to much so now I just troll and try to chime in when ever I can....

Its not boost pressure that kills ringlands either, its usually detonation that breaks them. If pressure killed ringlands then guys boosting with stock bottom ends on t4 setups of upwards of 20psi would be blowing there guts out. As you know its all in the tune.

One last thing why couldn't you compare a 4g63 to a KA for its features? I am not saying they're anything alike, it was just the first engine that came to mind.

Anyway, its good to see ya trollin around again. We need more knowledgeable KA people around these parts. Don't feel too bad about working to hard and plus its keeps your KA build on task. peace.

SR guys may remove them but as far as I recall Ivan at AMS still has the highest HP and fastest 1/4mile KA24det to date without removal of oil squirters or use of a windage tray and scraper. His record beats the highest HP sr20det to date.

As far as detonation, it's not an issue with the KA24de since NGK, and denso offer the best iridium plugs on the market to date. Denso and NGK only offer platinums for the KA24e. Most detonation/early misfire usually occurs from spark plug temprature, and or cylinder chamber hot spots.... Spark plugs normally become the weak link to this factor.sually becoming the majority of the hot spot in the cylinder chamber.

2 factors are invloved in creating a decent quick spool.
1.) A/F ratio
2.) exhaust scavaging ( other wise known as exhaust velocity)

On a KAe you can get the fuel no problem... I've seen sequential fuel injected systems using a 5th inline injector placed into the intake. But to make the kind of power on demand is not effecient since this process demands more fuel to create the heat needed for spooling. Now more fuel demands more advancement which causes a raise in egt. Of coarse there are other factors , I'm just trying to keep it simple. With the proper exhaust velocity spool timing is more effecient damanding less fuel, as well as ebing able to utilize retarded ignition timing for lower egt's, and maintaining leaner A/F ratio's.....

So yeah I can agree to some extent that detonation/early ignition can damage ringlands but if you also use boost it would increase ring failure.

I'm a noob to this forum, but not to turbo'ing engines that were never intended to wear an exhaust-driven air pump off their exhaust ports. That being said, that quoted statement makes no sense.

Detonation is caused by poor tuning, not spark plugs. Whether you're running NGK BKR7whatever copper plugs, some nice NGK Iridiums, or platinum triple forked lightning ricer whizzers, if your ECU isn't keeping pace with what's going on in the head, you will get detonation. Period. I've never seen boost pressure break stock rings either and that's on little 75mm bore Hondas pushing 20+ psi, but again on a solid tune.

Pressure won't cause it. It's a rotating assembly. Increased pressure causes to rotate faster, and as long as everything is firing when it's supposed (tuning), you won't harm anything. It's when the timing/tuning/or AFRs are off that detonation occurs at a point the rotating assembly isn't ready to have that particular piston pushed down that you run into bent rods, blown rings, or even fragging the top of your piston. Iridium spark plugs won't prevent that.

1990 Nissan Hardbody - de-minification in process!
2003 Honda Civic EX - 261.8whp/219.9tq @8.5psi
2008 Lexus IS250 - 204bhp/185tq bone stock (Bought not Built!)

I have never understood how people think boost is some sort of set magical number (10psi= 10hp right?), and KA's break ringlands like saltines at 15 psi. OH and my favorite, if you run to much boost your valves WILL be forced open under the pressure, LAWLZ! That last one was quoted by some high school kid that trolls over at nissancustoms, who believes that he is going to prove everyone wrong with testing different pressures and exhaust size. I cant wait for his results, lol.

Anyway, you know a good place to find a comp. map for a hy35 Holset? peace.

Quote, originally posted by nismopu »

I gave up after he posted the spark plug comment, lol. This is interesting this little tiny thread in the Truck forum( go figure) has sparked this much attention when theres like 15 others just like this ones title. very interesting. Anyway, you know a good place to find a comp. map for a hy35 Holset? peace.

Well here I go... back to old fundementals that people forget....
Of coarse bad tuning has alot to do with mis fire and detonation... The critical truth is ignition timing..... Here is the temprature to ignition timing to spark plugs... The chart shpould expalin that egt plays a large factor in this but yet it is just a simple graph.
Technically you can run an engine lean or rich, where you get detonation is from ignition timing being to far from load which is your K values.
If your load is high and you advance timing to much and raise EGT you get misfire, plain and simple.
Spark plugs although can reduce this problem as long as you are within a REALISTIC CAS, and K value. If you are a bad tuner you shouldn't be tuning to begin with.... Then you need to understand load, a bit better. But if it is within a realistic load setting then your just dealing lean heat variables from A/Fr's.

If your not understanding that basic logic than maybe your focus should be on something other than engine tuning.

Iridium plugs have a melting point at 4000* F, thats 2/3 greater than the melti point of copper, and 1/2 the melti point of platinum plugs.
You can get misfire from not gapping platinum, or copper plugs......
I have NEVER gapped a set of iridiums, and I have never had misfire as long as I have used them as a motorsport enthusiast.

Quote, originally posted by nismopu »

Also, if you were talking about detonation, then why did you mention pressure breaking ringlands?

O.K so your saying that you don't know how boost pressure raises EGT's?
You don't know how boost pressure increases flamefront propagation?
You don't know how boost pressure increases cylinder temprature which effects spark plug life and misfire if not correctly tuned within the K value?

It's these X factors of boosted cylinder pressure that will blow rings but inevetabily all these factors deal with boosted cylinder pressure.

In ref to the Holset map, what are the specs of it? I'll dig around a little in my bookmarks and see what I can come up with for you.

http://www.turbomustangs.com/s...40951

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/...s.pdf

Here is a comp map, HX35 at 14PSI....

I believe the HX35 uses a .46 a/r, so it's designed to spool pretty quick for lower rpms....

You could contact sport compact magazine and get a hold of the tuner that did this HX35 set up..
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.....html

http://www.holset.co.uk/mainsi...5.php

Loook how cute that turbine section is, lol!

I would tend to disagree a bit on this issue and I know that the discussion of oil squirters is a bit of a sensitive subject to some....

Truth is I've gone through a couple NAPSZ engines and KAe engines. Thrown rods, burned piston rings, just by reving the crap out of these engines to over 7000RPM....
Now I'm still using the same ka24de block and internals for almost 5 years and have been reving it passed 7200RPM... Oil squirters do work, the only problem is a bit of oil starvation that is caused from oil misting, that normally happens from oil being flung around the bottom end from windage. Oil squirters do work but the bottomend has to be designed to use oil squirters.
Sr20det engines use oil squirters, but then again the bottom end is designed with windage louvers to reduce oil starvation and misting, and the KAde block does not use windage louvers and/or tray.

the windage trays dont just reduce oil spary and misting, they are worth HP, like 10hp at 5-6k on a chevy or ford small block. they are really simple, just a metal tray below the crank.

anyway thats for some race beast ka24e. the person that originally started this thread probably wants a streetable stup with maybe 5-7 psi from a t28, intercooled, but what kind of options do we have for manifolds? any stock stuff we can run flipped over, or does it have to be aftermarket? can it be reliable? anyting running 550cc's we can grab the injectors from?

Most WHP you will see on on a KA24de block engine with use of windage tray and scrapper is about 3 WHP on average. V8's typically show more HP simply because there are more cylinders and displacement is greater.

If you really want to make 10 WHP the best way to do it would to reduce bottom end pressure by adding a vacuum line to the bottom of the block inline to the PCV line, and use a crank scrapper and windage tray.

Or spend $5000 on a sub-par dry sump oil system, with combination of scrapper.